Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
What kind and size hexes to buy?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


moeman


Feb 6, 2004, 12:06 PM
Post #1 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 1417

What kind and size hexes to buy?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Its time to buy some hexes to supplement my trad rack. I have a set of stoppers, set of TCUs, red and pink tricams, and will son have Camalots .75-3. I'm thinking of getting some hexes to suplement my mid-to-large size cams.

So first of all, what kind should I get? The classic BD hexes, the Metolius Curve hexes, or WC Rockcentrics? I've heard good things about the Metolius hexes, and I'm leaning towards them. Or should I stay with the tried and true BD hexes? Or the fancy, newfangled WC rockcentrics?

Meanwhile, what sizes would you recommend? I'm thinging just going from about the size of the largest stopper (35mm) up so i can cover a full range with passive gear. Or should I get smaller hexes as well?


shorty


Feb 6, 2004, 3:44 PM
Post #2 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 1266

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've owned most of the older BD hexes, but eventually gave most of them away to new climbers needing gear. I realized I liked to have a hex here and there, so I've replaced them with the Metolius curved hexes.

I prefer Metolius over BD -- just enough additional shape to help with crack irregularities and crystals. I played with a few WC rockcentrics, but didn't like their feel. Chalk one up to "I have no good reason for the choice."

I prefer stoppers over hexes for smaller placements (again, no really good reason -- I just learned that way), so my hexes start around the size of my largest stopper. I think this is a #5 or so Metolius. I have either 3 or 4 sizes, so my largest hex is probably close to a #2 Camalot in size. I don't really care for the largest hexes, but that's also my preference.

Bottom line -- go with what you feel comfortable with, and consider the pro needs for the crags you frequent. If it's possible, I recommend you try to fiddle with somebody else's gear on a familiar route before you shell out the bucks for your own toys.


sfclimber


Feb 6, 2004, 3:58 PM
Post #3 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 13, 2003
Posts: 51

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

When I first started putting togeather a lead rack I came accross an article that suggested (among other things) going with the 5 largest hexes and the 4 smallest tricams. I took the advice (went with Metolius curve hexes) but have rarely used any of the pieces. The pink tricam gets occasional use, but I don't even bring the hexes out with me anymore.

It depends on individual taste I guess, but my impression is that once you've picked up a few cams there is no turning back. If you have, or plan to get enough cams to cover the size range, then my advice would be to buy another cam and forget about the hexes. If cash is an issue and you're looking to fill out the size range at less cost than buying cams, then go with the 5 largest hexes.

Good luck.


superbum


Feb 6, 2004, 5:32 PM
Post #4 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

before I ever bought cams all I had was a passive rack...the climbs were more heady and tiring, but I felt like one of the old dogs, standing atop a crack first acended when there was no such thing as a "friend." I own both the WC rockcentrics and the BD hexcentrics. I tend to place the rockcentrics more. Why? no special reason other than I like them more, so they tend to go on my harness before the BDs. The curve design does make cleaning an easier process as well as (i.m.h.o.) making for a more fine-tuned, thus more solid, placement. On the other hand BD hexes have been tried and true for eons now, so you really can't go wrong.

I would get the 4 or 5 largest sizes as anything smaller can be easily handled with stoppers. Also, when you use all your cams on the way up...big hexes are a god-send for an anchor.

Oh yea, the WCs have super long slings, which can be good as you don't always need a q-draw, but they hang pretty far off the harness...your call.


dbarandiaran


Feb 6, 2004, 5:51 PM
Post #5 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 113

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i have a set of BD hexes, sizes 4-10. i actually use the smaller ones more than the bigger ones. i agree with superbum about the utility of hexes at belays. i prefer using the hexes at belays, to save the cams for the lead. anyway, don't shy away from smaller hexes, they have their use, and are light anyway

btw, i don't think i would go smaller than the hexes i have though, the wire stiffness would be a problem when placing them. easily remedied by getting slung hexes, but that opens up a whole other dicussion on wired vs. slung


scrux


Feb 6, 2004, 6:03 PM
Post #6 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 35

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have the 1-10 set of Metolius curved hexes, they were my first trad pieces, and problably my most prized saviors! Every placement was bomber even in the fall...even easy to clean unlike you might think...cheap, easy, bomber! :!:


mustclimb69


Feb 6, 2004, 7:31 PM
Post #7 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 479

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Metolious curve hexes are easier to set nd they roll in to position. the set of 10 is cheap. I prefer them to my BD hexs. the only down side is the rubber coating on the ends. they GRIP the the racking biners and are ometimers hard to move on the biner.


norushnomore


Feb 13, 2004, 3:07 AM
Post #8 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Say No to cowbells :P


deleted
Deleted

Feb 13, 2004, 7:14 AM
Post #9 of 18 (3048 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

[quote:f06197505a="moeman"]I'm thinging just going from about the size of the largest stopper (35mm) up so i can cover a full range with passive gear. Or should I get smaller hexes as well?[/quote:f06197505a]


hey [i:f06197505a]moe[/i:f06197505a]! go with the larger hexes and you can't go wrong.

as regards many of those who would have you believe hexes are outmoded, they're simply too lazy and prefer to plug and go. learning to place hexes can only make you a better, more versatile, all-around climber.


Partner rrrADAM


Feb 13, 2004, 7:19 AM
Post #10 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I got the BD Wired Hexes size 7-11...

Wired, as they are much easier to place than slung, and the sizes are to fit passive placements larger than a BD Stopper placed sideways.


furryfrisbee


Feb 13, 2004, 8:05 AM
Post #11 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 23, 2002
Posts: 260

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have the Rockcentrics and the Metolius, full sets of both. Much prefer the Rockcentrics, but I use them both.


phyreman


Feb 13, 2004, 9:29 AM
Post #12 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 21, 2003
Posts: 93

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
So first of all, what kind should I get? The classic BD hexes, the Metolius Curve hexes, or WC Rockcentrics? I've heard good things about the Metolius hexes, and I'm leaning towards them. Or should I stay with the tried and true BD hexes? Or the fancy, newfangled WC rockcentrics?

Meanwhile, what sizes would you recommend? I'm thinging just going from about the size of the largest stopper (35mm) up so i can cover a full range with passive gear. Or should I get smaller hexes as well?

I have the 5 largest WC Rockcentrics. I wouldn't get the sizes that are covered by stoppers, get a second set of stoppers.... As for which kind to get, I just don't like the look of the Metoulius Curve's. The BD design has been around forever, so it's a sure thing, but the best thing to do is borrow somebody elses and see how they feel to place...


bustinmins


Feb 13, 2004, 11:43 AM
Post #13 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 507

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Look at your largest stopper and then purchase the five hexes that start at or just above that stoppers size.

Congrats on your hex purchases. I have doubled hexes using the above formula.

You're going to have fun placing them. Personally, I like using them in anchors, if able. This saves my cams for the unknown above.

Last fall I climbed the West Dihedral of the Whale's Tail located in Eldorado Canyon. In the Eldo guide it was suggested I rack up to a #4 Cam. I placed all hexes and one number one cam on that route. I want to go back this spring and do it hex-only. Just to say I did it that way.

Have fun sporting the cowbells!


crackjammer


Feb 13, 2004, 1:54 PM
Post #14 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 53

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I got the BD Wired Hexes size 7-11...

Wired, as they are much easier to place than slung, and the sizes are to fit passive placements larger than a BD Stopper placed sideways.

Exactly. The #7 BD Hex is exactly one size bigger than their largest stopper. Get a set of stoppers then a 7-11 hex to completely cover the range to passive protection.


iamthewallress


Feb 13, 2004, 1:58 PM
Post #15 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2003
Posts: 2463

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

IMO, the best hex to supplement a rack of nuts and cams is a tri-cam. :wink:


charley


Feb 13, 2004, 3:55 PM
Post #16 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Say No to cowbells :P
They sound so cool. When you have them and tiblocs on your rack it sounds like a symphony. :lol:


olympicmtnboy


Feb 13, 2004, 5:36 PM
Post #17 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 4, 2003
Posts: 270

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I really like hexes for some off reason, a big hex well placed is about as bomber as you can get. I find I use BD sizes 6-10 most often, even though I have a full set. Stoppers tend to place better for the smaller sizes and the camming action is kind of negated when it's that tiny. I rarely need the #11, and the #10 is pretty damn big but I still place it sometimes. I climbed a few times with those dyneema slung curve hexes and liked them quite a bit, maybe better than the wired ones cause they cam into place better and shake around less, but I had a pro deal on BD when I bought mine. And they do ring so nicely on the descent hanging off your rack.


sbclimber


Feb 13, 2004, 8:08 PM
Post #18 of 18 (3056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 2, 2003
Posts: 444

Re: What kind and size hexes to buy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

buy cams...


I can't remember the last time I placed a hex on a route, but it was a lONG time ago.

Now anchors are a different story. I love my BD #9&10 for anchors. (I only bring them if I know I will need them.)

Don't buy the non-hollow hexes(smaller sizes). Nuts will do the job for those sizes. I think one of each of the hollow ones is good (except maybe the #11)


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook