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dagawebb
Feb 8, 2004, 10:48 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2003
Posts: 55
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Hi All,
I am looking for some info on Salathe. In particular Belays (Number of Bolts at each) Triple Direct and Muir Wall and what gear in particular I would need outside a normal Big Wall Rack. I do not have the supertopos guide but I have the old guide. I am planning to climb in August and would like some detailed info. Too cheap to buy the supertopos guide.
Thanks for the info in advance
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skiclimb
Feb 8, 2004, 11:03 PM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
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On Salathe...Bring your wide crack climbing skills...suggest a #5 and #6 WildCountry and double up on everything triple up on cams. Cam hooks are handy. Some belays are natural. If it says to 2" then it means 5" Buy the Supertopo or you are likely to get off route in a couple spots.
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ricardol
Feb 8, 2004, 11:55 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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the supertopo book is $30 .. peanuts compared to what it takes to make a big-wall ascent ..
-- ricardo
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strider
Feb 9, 2004, 3:48 AM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2003
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Here's the Rack:
nutz: 2 each (offset useful)
Micro Nutz : 1-2 each (offsets useful)
cams: 3 each .5-3.5"
1-2 each 4.5-6.5
hooks: 1 cliffhanger
cam hooks
This is an all clean rack, so no pitons are needed. The route is graded at 5.9 C2 which is probably a softer grade than your guide has (since your guide is older) so please remember, NO HAMMERS. The only other notable is that the Hollow Flake pitch requires numerous 6"-10" pieces or you run-it out for 80 ft of 5.8. If you want more detail than this then you should get a Supertopo book and get the real blow by blow.
Good Luck.
-n
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rockprodigy
Feb 9, 2004, 1:11 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
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Don't go in August, it will be too hot.
Yosemite aid ratings are pretty soft, at least on the trade routes, I didn't run into anything up there that would be rated harder than A1 in Zion.
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asandh
Feb 9, 2004, 1:40 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
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:D
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dagawebb
Feb 9, 2004, 10:02 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2003
Posts: 55
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Hey thanks all for the info. I was there last August and found the heat ok. No major dramas never finished a climb with no water, had water left when we got to the top on the climbs.
Will keep it in mind though
Cheers
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