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redroxboy
Feb 4, 2004, 10:42 PM
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I was just curious to know if the is any climbers that compete. Im 17 and can onsight v4 and 5.11 somewhat easily. Does anyone know what level a person should be climbing at to start competing? Any help would be really cool. Thanks.
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leaverbiner
Feb 4, 2004, 10:51 PM
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I'm giving yout he benefit of the doubt that this isn't a troll . ..
Most climbing competitions are divided into categories such as beginner, intermediate, advanced and open. This allows climbers of all abilities to compete. Most competitions will giveyou an idea of the ability range they expect for each category.
If you are talking about competing on a national or international level . .. you've got a ways to go (no offense, just the realities), and, more likely than not, you will know when you are capable of competing at that level.
But, if competitive climbing is something you are interested definitely get in touch with local gyms and see what competitions they have coming up. . . . there will most likely be an appropriate category for your ability level.
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climbhigh2005
Feb 4, 2004, 11:02 PM
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ClimbHigh2005 moved this thread from General to Competition Climbing.
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madriver
Feb 4, 2004, 11:03 PM
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...btw...at 17 you can compete in bouldering and difficulty comps against people your age and ability. In USA (Formally USCCA) climbing you would compete against climbers 16-17 years old. ABS or bouldering comps you will compete against your piers of similar ability. Most gyms or comps will list the categories by ability.
V0-V2 beginner
V3-V5 Intermediate
V6 and up Expert
All comps vary in their category ratings.
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jakedatc
Feb 5, 2004, 3:56 AM
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Don't forget the old folks catagory.. so Edge can win his chalk supply for the year.. teehee
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tart
Feb 10, 2004, 12:13 AM
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To be competitive in US Climbing, at 17, you'll need to be bouldering quite a bit higher...probably in the V8-V9 range.
My son competes at the 12/13 age level, and he can regularly on-sight V5s; outside, he's worked through a few V7s and V8s. Indoor top roping is probably in the 5.12+ range. He's placed in the top 10 for the two years he's been competing in the US Climbing national comp.
However, at ABS comps, or regular gym comps, he sometimes has a tough time placing in men's intermediate, where's he's climbing against much stronger, much taller, and more experienced climbers.
My advice is go -- have a great time -- get some experience -- and don't worry about where you'll place. It will always depend on who else is competing.
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climbsomething
Feb 10, 2004, 12:22 AM
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Feh. I compete once in a rare while, and I am no Rands- V1 makes me happy, V2 makes me ecstatic, V3 and up makes me... a mess :shock: Not all competitors are mutants- just, perhaps, the winners :P Plenty are just normal peeps who like to have fun.
Then again, I am a 23-year-old girl, and as such am required to wear really cute Prana sport tops while bouldering, so I am forgiven my weaknesses ;) :roll:
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reprieve
Feb 10, 2004, 12:23 AM
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yah dude, I don't know anything about USA comps or whatever, but I competed in an ABS comp after climbing for just 1 month! I placed REALLY low, but I had a blast, it only cost me 15 bucks, and I actually won a free pair of shoes in a raffle!
moral of story: ABS comps = fun for all climbers, age or experience regardless
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iltripp
Feb 10, 2004, 12:32 AM
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In reply to: ...btw...at 17 you can compete in bouldering and difficulty comps against people your age and ability. In USA (Formally USCCA) climbing you would compete against climbers 16-17 years old. ABS or bouldering comps you will compete against your piers of similar ability. Most gyms or comps will list the categories by ability. V0-V2 beginner V3-V5 Intermediate V6 and up Expert All comps vary in their category ratings.
Maybe this is a dumb question, but what stops people from lying? For example, let's say I can climb V6, but I enter a competition and say that I am Intermediate. Then, I win and get whatever prize there is. Is there some kind of regulation for entries? Again, this is probably a dumb question, but I know nothing about comps...
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tart
Feb 10, 2004, 12:40 AM
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Because the comp organizers will bump you up to the next higher category, or wherever you place (in most cases). For example, at the Triple Crown comps this past fall, if you had two or more climbs above your category (say a V6 and a V7) then you would have gotten bumped out of the intermediate category, which was for V3-V5 climbers. My son got bumped two categories at a recent ABS comp -- and he won men's intermediate.
And the incentive is to send the best problems -- the prizes are usually kind of lame for anything except the open categories, who win cash.
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superfox
Feb 10, 2004, 1:35 AM
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In reply to: To be competitive in US Climbing, at 17, you'll need to be bouldering quite a bit higher...probably in the V8-V9 range.
I know the two kids who got first and second in the US Climbing nationals in the 16/17 male age division personally, and the first place kid has sport-climbed one 14b, and two 14a's, and bouldered up to V9, onsighting one of them. The second place kid has sport-climbed one 14a and bouldered many V10's, and maybe a V11.
You don't need to be this good to compete and have fun, however. I have only redpointed up to 12a, and get my butt kicked at all the competitions, but it's still fun, basically like a 3-hour long sending session, with all new routes. In my experience, bouldering comps are a lot more relaxed and the vibe is much better than in roped competitions.
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reprieve
Feb 10, 2004, 6:19 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: To be competitive in US Climbing, at 17, you'll need to be bouldering quite a bit higher...probably in the V8-V9 range. In my experience, bouldering comps are a lot more relaxed and the vibe is much better than in roped competitions.
same here
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realization
Feb 11, 2004, 11:19 PM
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I <3 tart's son
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tart
Feb 12, 2004, 2:36 AM
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What does that mean?
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lagart
Feb 12, 2004, 4:10 PM
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To now more about climbing competitions, check out these links:
Competition Training
You can have a look at this video to learn a little bit about the history of climbing comps:
http://www.vertvideo.com/Movies/Get%20Motivated.html
If you are the video-download type, go to www.petzl.com and download the World Cup competitions (bouldering, lead and speed).
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realization
Feb 12, 2004, 6:40 PM
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Only joking, I don't really know why I said it, it just seemed like when I read the post, you talked a lot about your son, he seems like a strong climber ... didn't mean anything by it.
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realization
Feb 12, 2004, 6:41 PM
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Only joking, I don't really know why I said it, it just seemed like when I read the post, you talked a lot about your son, he seems like a strong climber ... didn't mean anything by it.
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madriver
Feb 12, 2004, 7:16 PM
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...o.k...
...but what does...In reply to: I <3 tart's son
....mean?
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jakedatc
Feb 12, 2004, 7:29 PM
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for those uniniciated in the wold of old school emoticons <3 looks like a heart... meaning I (heart/love) blah blah
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tart
Feb 13, 2004, 10:36 AM
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In reply to: Only joking, I don't really know why I said it, it just seemed like when I read the post, you talked a lot about your son, he seems like a strong climber ... didn't mean anything by it.
no problem -- like madriver, i truly didn't know that it was a heart...(are we showing our age?)
but my son is an awesome climber and I <3 hiim too!!!!
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junkie
Feb 16, 2004, 9:26 PM
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It really depends on WHICH competitions you are interested in. Local comps, who cares how hard you yank? Go, play. Have fun. Learn. Get stronger BY competing. Just go in with the right mind-set about comps: That they are there for you to have fun, not get mad if you don't climb well, or place how you wanted to.
If you are talking about traveling to compete, to hit the PCA or other similar type comps...well let me put it this way:
I travel with and climb with a 16 year old who sends 13c, boulders V11 and he gets crushed at these national level comps. I too climb at about the same level. But at these comps....well, let's say it's embarrassing not being able to get of the freaking ground on a boulder problem in front of all of your friends... My housemate is able to climb much better than I am...and sometimes does not make the cut either. Other times he does fairly well.
Hope this answers what you were after.
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rckclimbergurl
Feb 24, 2004, 4:22 AM
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In reply to: It really depends on WHICH competitions you are interested in. Local comps, who cares how hard you yank? Go, play. Have fun. Learn. Get stronger BY competing. Just go in with the right mind-set about comps: That they are there for you to have fun, not get mad if you don't climb well, or place how you wanted to. If you are talking about traveling to compete, to hit the PCA or other similar type comps...well let me put it this way: I travel with and climb with a 16 year old who sends 13c, boulders V11 and he gets crushed at these national level comps. I too climb at about the same level. But at these comps....well, let's say it's embarrassing not being able to get of the freaking ground on a boulder problem in front of all of your friends... My housemate is able to climb much better than I am...and sometimes does not make the cut either. Other times he does fairly well. Hope this answers what you were after.
At least you had the guts TO compete... :roll:
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junkie
Feb 25, 2004, 9:10 PM
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You'll compete next time. Don't worry...
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