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moeman
Feb 6, 2004, 8:06 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
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Its time to buy some hexes to supplement my trad rack. I have a set of stoppers, set of TCUs, red and pink tricams, and will son have Camalots .75-3. I'm thinking of getting some hexes to suplement my mid-to-large size cams. So first of all, what kind should I get? The classic BD hexes, the Metolius Curve hexes, or WC Rockcentrics? I've heard good things about the Metolius hexes, and I'm leaning towards them. Or should I stay with the tried and true BD hexes? Or the fancy, newfangled WC rockcentrics? Meanwhile, what sizes would you recommend? I'm thinging just going from about the size of the largest stopper (35mm) up so i can cover a full range with passive gear. Or should I get smaller hexes as well?
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shorty
Feb 6, 2004, 11:44 PM
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I've owned most of the older BD hexes, but eventually gave most of them away to new climbers needing gear. I realized I liked to have a hex here and there, so I've replaced them with the Metolius curved hexes. I prefer Metolius over BD -- just enough additional shape to help with crack irregularities and crystals. I played with a few WC rockcentrics, but didn't like their feel. Chalk one up to "I have no good reason for the choice." I prefer stoppers over hexes for smaller placements (again, no really good reason -- I just learned that way), so my hexes start around the size of my largest stopper. I think this is a #5 or so Metolius. I have either 3 or 4 sizes, so my largest hex is probably close to a #2 Camalot in size. I don't really care for the largest hexes, but that's also my preference. Bottom line -- go with what you feel comfortable with, and consider the pro needs for the crags you frequent. If it's possible, I recommend you try to fiddle with somebody else's gear on a familiar route before you shell out the bucks for your own toys.
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sfclimber
Feb 6, 2004, 11:58 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2003
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When I first started putting togeather a lead rack I came accross an article that suggested (among other things) going with the 5 largest hexes and the 4 smallest tricams. I took the advice (went with Metolius curve hexes) but have rarely used any of the pieces. The pink tricam gets occasional use, but I don't even bring the hexes out with me anymore. It depends on individual taste I guess, but my impression is that once you've picked up a few cams there is no turning back. If you have, or plan to get enough cams to cover the size range, then my advice would be to buy another cam and forget about the hexes. If cash is an issue and you're looking to fill out the size range at less cost than buying cams, then go with the 5 largest hexes. Good luck.
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superbum
Feb 7, 2004, 1:32 AM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
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before I ever bought cams all I had was a passive rack...the climbs were more heady and tiring, but I felt like one of the old dogs, standing atop a crack first acended when there was no such thing as a "friend." I own both the WC rockcentrics and the BD hexcentrics. I tend to place the rockcentrics more. Why? no special reason other than I like them more, so they tend to go on my harness before the BDs. The curve design does make cleaning an easier process as well as (i.m.h.o.) making for a more fine-tuned, thus more solid, placement. On the other hand BD hexes have been tried and true for eons now, so you really can't go wrong. I would get the 4 or 5 largest sizes as anything smaller can be easily handled with stoppers. Also, when you use all your cams on the way up...big hexes are a god-send for an anchor. Oh yea, the WCs have super long slings, which can be good as you don't always need a q-draw, but they hang pretty far off the harness...your call.
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dbarandiaran
Feb 7, 2004, 1:51 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2003
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i have a set of BD hexes, sizes 4-10. i actually use the smaller ones more than the bigger ones. i agree with superbum about the utility of hexes at belays. i prefer using the hexes at belays, to save the cams for the lead. anyway, don't shy away from smaller hexes, they have their use, and are light anyway btw, i don't think i would go smaller than the hexes i have though, the wire stiffness would be a problem when placing them. easily remedied by getting slung hexes, but that opens up a whole other dicussion on wired vs. slung
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scrux
Feb 7, 2004, 2:03 AM
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Registered: Jan 19, 2004
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I have the 1-10 set of Metolius curved hexes, they were my first trad pieces, and problably my most prized saviors! Every placement was bomber even in the fall...even easy to clean unlike you might think...cheap, easy, bomber! :!:
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mustclimb69
Feb 7, 2004, 3:31 AM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
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Metolious curve hexes are easier to set nd they roll in to position. the set of 10 is cheap. I prefer them to my BD hexs. the only down side is the rubber coating on the ends. they GRIP the the racking biners and are ometimers hard to move on the biner.
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norushnomore
Feb 13, 2004, 11:07 AM
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Say No to cowbells :P
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deleted
Deleted
Feb 13, 2004, 3:14 PM
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[quote:f06197505a="moeman"]I'm thinging just going from about the size of the largest stopper (35mm) up so i can cover a full range with passive gear. Or should I get smaller hexes as well?[/quote:f06197505a] hey [i:f06197505a]moe[/i:f06197505a]! go with the larger hexes and you can't go wrong. as regards many of those who would have you believe hexes are outmoded, they're simply too lazy and prefer to plug and go. learning to place hexes can only make you a better, more versatile, all-around climber.
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rrrADAM
Feb 13, 2004, 3:19 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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I got the BD Wired Hexes size 7-11... Wired, as they are much easier to place than slung, and the sizes are to fit passive placements larger than a BD Stopper placed sideways.
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furryfrisbee
Feb 13, 2004, 4:05 PM
Post #11 of 18
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Registered: Apr 23, 2002
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I have the Rockcentrics and the Metolius, full sets of both. Much prefer the Rockcentrics, but I use them both.
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phyreman
Feb 13, 2004, 5:29 PM
Post #12 of 18
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Registered: Jun 21, 2003
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In reply to: So first of all, what kind should I get? The classic BD hexes, the Metolius Curve hexes, or WC Rockcentrics? I've heard good things about the Metolius hexes, and I'm leaning towards them. Or should I stay with the tried and true BD hexes? Or the fancy, newfangled WC rockcentrics? Meanwhile, what sizes would you recommend? I'm thinging just going from about the size of the largest stopper (35mm) up so i can cover a full range with passive gear. Or should I get smaller hexes as well? I have the 5 largest WC Rockcentrics. I wouldn't get the sizes that are covered by stoppers, get a second set of stoppers.... As for which kind to get, I just don't like the look of the Metoulius Curve's. The BD design has been around forever, so it's a sure thing, but the best thing to do is borrow somebody elses and see how they feel to place...
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bustinmins
Feb 13, 2004, 7:43 PM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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Look at your largest stopper and then purchase the five hexes that start at or just above that stoppers size. Congrats on your hex purchases. I have doubled hexes using the above formula. You're going to have fun placing them. Personally, I like using them in anchors, if able. This saves my cams for the unknown above. Last fall I climbed the West Dihedral of the Whale's Tail located in Eldorado Canyon. In the Eldo guide it was suggested I rack up to a #4 Cam. I placed all hexes and one number one cam on that route. I want to go back this spring and do it hex-only. Just to say I did it that way. Have fun sporting the cowbells!
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crackjammer
Feb 13, 2004, 9:54 PM
Post #14 of 18
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
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In reply to: I got the BD Wired Hexes size 7-11... Wired, as they are much easier to place than slung, and the sizes are to fit passive placements larger than a BD Stopper placed sideways. Exactly. The #7 BD Hex is exactly one size bigger than their largest stopper. Get a set of stoppers then a 7-11 hex to completely cover the range to passive protection.
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iamthewallress
Feb 13, 2004, 9:58 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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IMO, the best hex to supplement a rack of nuts and cams is a tri-cam. :wink:
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charley
Feb 13, 2004, 11:55 PM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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In reply to: Say No to cowbells :P They sound so cool. When you have them and tiblocs on your rack it sounds like a symphony. :lol:
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olympicmtnboy
Feb 14, 2004, 1:36 AM
Post #17 of 18
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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
Posts: 270
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I really like hexes for some off reason, a big hex well placed is about as bomber as you can get. I find I use BD sizes 6-10 most often, even though I have a full set. Stoppers tend to place better for the smaller sizes and the camming action is kind of negated when it's that tiny. I rarely need the #11, and the #10 is pretty damn big but I still place it sometimes. I climbed a few times with those dyneema slung curve hexes and liked them quite a bit, maybe better than the wired ones cause they cam into place better and shake around less, but I had a pro deal on BD when I bought mine. And they do ring so nicely on the descent hanging off your rack.
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sbclimber
Feb 14, 2004, 4:08 AM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2003
Posts: 444
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buy cams... I can't remember the last time I placed a hex on a route, but it was a lONG time ago. Now anchors are a different story. I love my BD #9&10 for anchors. (I only bring them if I know I will need them.) Don't buy the non-hollow hexes(smaller sizes). Nuts will do the job for those sizes. I think one of each of the hollow ones is good (except maybe the #11)
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