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superdiamonddave
Feb 12, 2004, 6:18 PM
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It will soon be that time again when all the brightest stars shine down on "Old Baldy" to point the way for the masses. Mark your calendars for April 3rd and 4th for this will be that joyous time which happens all too infrequently.
For those new to the area, Quartz is located about 20 miles north of Altus, Oklahoma. It is a state park and I believe that the camping fee is $3 per night for WMCC members and $4 per night for all others. This fee applies even if you are car camping. This is one of two times per year that the rangers allow us to camp at "Old Baldy" primitive style (and give us such a price break, usually $6 per night) so be sure to come out and enjoy the climbs and camaraderie.
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leinosaur
Feb 17, 2004, 5:05 PM
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Sounds cool - what's WMCC - & how come this thread got bumped so fast? I just came over to Regional discussions to see if the Wichita bouldering thread went anywhere, & here it was . . . maybe it's not the Ouray Ice Fest but I've seen other regionals stay up lots longer. Lots of other recently-joined Okies might miss it over here in regional posts
Thanks for the invite - hope to make it
leinosaur
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calamity_chk
Feb 17, 2004, 5:16 PM
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wmcc is the wichita mountain climbers coalition - and they rule.
i've been to a couple of these shin-digs and have always had a great time. honestly, if i were anywhere near the area, i'd head out there again.
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superdiamonddave
Feb 17, 2004, 5:26 PM
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If one of the Admins. want to move the post to Events & Gatherings that is fine by me.
Hope to see you there.
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mike_ok
Feb 24, 2004, 5:53 PM
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I'm there.
Hey Dave, a few months back, where you at upper mount scott on the back side of the mtn where those two cracks are located? ie, not the main climbing area. there are two parallel cracks, one a 5.7 or 5.8 the other a 5.10 or so.
I met a guy there doing laps by himself with a gri-gri on the 5.10
If so... uh... nice to see you again ;-) Keep climbing hard.
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superdiamonddave
Feb 24, 2004, 6:16 PM
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I know the climbs to which you are refering, but that wasn't me. I don't own a gri-gri. Might have been one of you crazy Texans? :lol:
See ya at Quartz!
Dave
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superdiamonddave
Mar 1, 2004, 4:31 PM
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Bumpity bump bump...bump bump!
Just one month away 'till it's time to play!
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hugepedro
Mar 1, 2004, 5:15 PM
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I'll be there! By then I'll be living in Santa Fe, but it looks like it's only about 5 hour drive.
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superdiamonddave
Mar 8, 2004, 8:18 PM
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Rumor has it that Duane Raleigh, Doug Robinson, and maybe Henry Barber may be coming out to the Fling this year. I hope they all make it.
On another note, I was at Quartz on Saturday and Mark Herndon was there. He said he was taking some pics for possible publication in a future issue of Rock & Ice. He didn't shoot any of me; it seems he's waiting for the original "hardmen of Quartz" for a Sunday shoot. He's a super-nice guy and he even once took a 100 footer on "Big Bite" many years ago. "Big bite" is one of those routes that I won't even try at Quartz. WAY TOO RUN OUT!
I also ran into four guys from Houston, TX. It was their first time at Quartz and they loved it. So all you folks out there that don't have plans for the 1st weekend of April, you now have a challenge to make the drive to Altus, Oklahoma!
Rock on,
Dave
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bxt
Mar 12, 2004, 3:25 AM
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In reply to: I also ran into four guys from Houston, TX. It was their first time at Quartz and they loved it.
We will be back.
-Bryan
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chuckd278
Mar 15, 2004, 1:52 AM
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Hey Dave,
Wish I could be there and climb with all of you like back in the days, but it's spring in the Idaho backcountry. Give me a call if you get a chance. I don't really need On the Rock's 2 up here so I need to know where to send it. Night solo Snake's Head and South America for me if you get a chance.
Chuck
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superdiamonddave
Mar 22, 2004, 5:41 PM
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Chuck, I pm'd you about On the Rocks II. Let me know what I have to do to get my hands on that book. Check your messages Chuck! Don't make me post my info on the front page.
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superdiamonddave
Mar 22, 2004, 5:48 PM
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As posted from the wichitamountains.org site:
Marion wrote:
"In case you didn't know, Saturday night at the Spring Fling is 70"s retro night. To get inside the Agave Brothers Tequila Trailer you must be dressed in Painters Pants and a Rugby Shirt, and sporting EB's, PA's, RR's, or Shoenards on your feet and a Mark Hudon/Max Jones bandana hat on your head. A bottle of Patron (Silver of course) will be awarded for "Best Dressed". Also, we'll be holding a late-night, lantern-lit contest to see who can get up Run and Jump in their old shoes.
And this ain't no April Fool's joke!"
My response:
"Crazy old-school guys" :roll:
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moondawg
Mar 26, 2004, 8:23 AM
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SDD
Just found out about you guys. This sounds like a very cool happening. Am just getting back into climbing after a long absence. Detoured with running, a back injury & a real job. Bummer.
Have been in touch with Marion already. Looking forward to hanging out in April.
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jackscoldsweat
Mar 26, 2004, 8:29 AM
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rumors abound!! someone set the record straight. Will Duane Raleigh be there?
Would love to see the ol'bloke on home turf.
That is all.
JCS
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superdiamonddave
Mar 26, 2004, 6:31 PM
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Yes Duane is supposed to be there, along with Doug Robinson too. Still don't know for sure if Henry Barber is going to be there or not. Rick McCusic and many others from Oklahoma's early climbing days will be there as well. Too many to name.
Come on out and join the fun. It's just 7 days away til it's time to play!
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leinosaur
Mar 26, 2004, 8:49 PM
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Man! Pretty specific 70's dress code - what about wool knickers & Chuck Taylors? I've seen the photos . . .
Does a tequila hangover officially up the grade on a long sunny slab climb?
Have heard and read alot about the WMCC since my first post's questions -
GOOD WORK WITH SECURING BALDY PEAK! THANKS THANKS THANKS! I grew up just North of there (Burns Flat) and ignorant of climbing - look forward to learning from the locals old & newer.
bis bald (german for seeya soon, pretty much)
leinosaur
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moondawg
Mar 27, 2004, 7:06 AM
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Questions for a Spring Fling vet:
Not being familiar with this climbing site, what should we prepare for?
Is this a bouldering, rope-free climb?
If equipment is required will it be possible to acquire what is needed there?
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moondawg
Mar 28, 2004, 4:33 AM
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OK. Found the Baldy climb information on another page.
So never mind the first part of my previous post.
Man, you guys have put a lot of work into these Web sites on Oklahoma climbing. A ton of information. Much appreciated.
Last event photos looked like someone was having an gear garage sale. Is that happening again?
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superdiamonddave
Mar 29, 2004, 4:45 PM
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That gear sale was kind of a one time thing. One of the old timers was parting with his gear. Retiring from climbing I guess.
As far as the climbing goes at Quartz:
Bouldering, Heck yeah, there is a ton of it. Check out Steve's projects on the North side of Baldy. The classics are still there near the parking lot. All of them are must do's.
Roped climbing:
Anything from all trad to mixed trad and occasional bolts.
There are also mind altering run-out bolted climbs that will surely test the most hardened of climbers. These are not for the aspiring climbers :!:
Retro-bolted climbs:
Many of the free-solos have been bolted (thank God). The consensus was that these great climbs were never getting climbed due to the fatal nature of them (that and we are not all Duane Raleigh). Now most of these are reasonably safe, but they are still not considered sport routes. They are in fact, bolted climbs.
Top-roping:
Just about anything can be rigged for top-roping, but some can be way trickier than others to rig. You may have to climb an easier route to get to the ideal spot to set up a TR for a harder route. This is a big dome and getting around on it can be tricky. Also, for many routes you will need two ropes to TR. The routes are long.
Convenience:
I will be leaving a fixed rappell line on the headwall (last of the good guys anchors) for all to use. This way, you don't have to take two ropes up every climb. However, if you climb in the South America Wall area, you will need two ropes to rap off of this area, because I don't have an extra rope to leave fixed, besides a hanging rope here would be in the way of the routes on that formation of rock.
Aid:
The ultra-classic is "Anorexia"
You will probably want to use pins on this one.
Gear summary:
Bring a few draws and a standard trad rack. Two 50 meter ropes or one if you opt to use my fixed line.
Bottom line:
Have fun!!
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leinosaur
Mar 29, 2004, 5:19 PM
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Hey y'all
thanks for all the detailed beta - have been reading the WMCC info board and canarldly wait - will try to bring Mr. Hussong with . . . :wink:
one question - one of my key climbing partners (he's got the trad rack) has a school play fri. & sat. nights but wants to come after, so he can be there first thing in the morn - is arriving late to camp a prob? I could pre-pay for him or something; but I told him there are probably park reg's vs. that . . . :?
tanks yizall
leinosaur
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superdiamonddave
Mar 29, 2004, 5:44 PM
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That's not a problem at all. In fact, he won't even have to pay since he's not camping. Anyone can come and go as they please.
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gravitysucks
Mar 31, 2004, 1:16 AM
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[indigo]I've never been to Quartz...but the weather's not looking promising guys. hope the rain shows up late, like Sunday at least. or does Quartz generate its own weather almost totally devoid of anomalies like the Wichitas (land of big wind and perpetually clear skies)?
hope to see everyone there! I'll bring my bell bottoms. anyone ever tried a moderate slab route in platform shoes? maybe I'll get my FA after all.[/indigo]
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