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alpinerock
Feb 18, 2004, 12:26 AM
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I know this is kinda a dumb question, but how would you climb a route that has a more that 90 degree route? has anyone ever seen one on a normal route(Normal means not a cave)? just curious
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skiclimb
Feb 18, 2004, 12:31 AM
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turn around and downclimb to the end of course then I guess you might turn around again at the lip...or just go straight at it maybe...nope never seen one.
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fourdeadpresidents
Feb 18, 2004, 12:42 AM
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Take a normal 70-degree climb and start feet first. I guess that would make it 130-degrees if you flipped your poles so to speak. Best of luck where a helmet …
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pbjosh
Feb 18, 2004, 12:49 AM
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Flipping and leading with the feet vs. the hands has a lot more to do with the features presented than with the angle. Most beyond horizontal routes climb just like any other roofs. More Monkey Than Funky @ Jtree is slightly beyond horizontal at the lip, as is Paisano Overhang.
On the flip side (bad pun alert), Right Long's Crack @ Woodson involves inverting and leading with the feet and it is, at steepest, perhaps 10 degrees beyond VERTICAL, no where near horizontal.
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petsfed
Feb 18, 2004, 1:25 AM
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Trip Master Monkey (amongst others) features an above the head foot jam that you later physically pull on with your hands. But that's not a roof more than 90 degrees.
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sbclimber
Feb 18, 2004, 1:37 AM
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In reply to: I know this is kinda a dumb question, but how would you climb a route that has a more that 90 degree route? has anyone ever seen one on a normal route(Normal means not a cave)? just curious
I believe the type of roofs you are talking about would be less than 90 degrees. (Think about it) More than 90 would just be a very steep climb.
For instance, 180 would be a vertical face, 90 would be a perectly horizontal roof, 45 degrees would be a roof you could possibly turn around and downclimb out to the lip.(as someone already said) (is that even possible?)
135 degrees would be a section of 45 degree overhanging rock above a vertical face.
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verbal
Feb 18, 2004, 2:20 AM
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There is a route at the Red River Gorge that goes beyond 90 degrees, and its not really in a cave, just a steep cliff. Its called Reticent, or maybe Tacit at the Bob Marley Crag.
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okinawatricam
Feb 18, 2004, 3:10 AM
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It would depend on the angle and feature of the roof:
You could climb it straight on, like any other roof, your feet would be just a little higher thats all.
You could turn around and down climb the thing if it were the correst angle.
Of course, I would problally aid it.
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junkie
Feb 18, 2004, 6:02 PM
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Passport to Insanity, an AMAZING roof crack in Australia. Arguably one of the finer lines in the world. You finish the roof (6 meters) about 6 or 8 feet lower than the back of the roof. Has been freed by Jill MacLeod and HB.
I've done it with copious grabbing of friends, whimpering and my share of cursing.
You can find a picture of it on Simon Carters website, under the Grampians section.
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biff
May 8, 2004, 5:56 AM
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Aparently There is a more than horizontal route at Drywood, near Lethbridge Albera .. super juggy 12C. I hope to get down there this season.
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a.a.
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May 8, 2004, 6:14 AM
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pbjosh, have you ever seen a picture of someone on Right Longs Crack? That would be interesting to see.
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ben87
May 8, 2004, 6:36 AM
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god damn that's beautiful. where is that?
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occlimbr
May 8, 2004, 2:10 PM
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Suicide rocks in Southern California.
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bouldering-bumm
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May 8, 2004, 4:33 PM
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I have seen one. And climbed on them. They dont hurt your back as much as they should, though
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mesomorf
May 8, 2004, 4:54 PM
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Separate Reality is steeper than 180 degrees.
(0 degrees is flat, horizontal. So is 180 degrees. 90 degrees is vertical.)
http://www.sportclimbing.de/...2/separate_lakey.jpg
You climb most of it head first, then flip around at the lip in order to get your feet hooked there.
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walt511
May 10, 2004, 7:29 PM
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Separate Reality - Now there's an A$$ Pucker! I eventually made it to the lip (leading on preplaced gear) but there was no way in heck I was strong enough to hold on and get turned around. Fortunately my partner was way strong. It was wild watching him go almost inverted - feet first to finish. Maybe someday!!!
AWESOME climb though.
Walt
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petro
May 10, 2004, 8:48 PM
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Next time you're in a gear shop, check out the pics in the new IC guide book. i.e. Brother from another planet. SICK!
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