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kman


Mar 27, 2002, 3:11 AM
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basalt
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This question is for any one who has done trad on basalt.

How good are placements in this type of rock? Is basalt weak or strong? Good rock / bad rock?


kman


Mar 27, 2002, 3:13 AM
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basalt [In reply to]
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Should have put this in the trad forum I guess. Oh well.


Partner rrrADAM


Mar 27, 2002, 4:18 AM
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basalt [In reply to]
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Good... Hard...

Basalt - (noun) The most common type of solidified lava; a dense dark gray fine-grained igneous rock composed chiefly of calcium-rich plagioclase feldspar and pyroxene.


bigevilgrape


Mar 27, 2002, 7:30 AM
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basalt [In reply to]
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i've never trad led on trap rock (basalt and trap rock are the same thing) but trap rock is all there is in connecticut and we have almost no sport routs, so my guess would have to be that the placements can't be too bad.


its_me_drew


Mar 27, 2002, 8:21 AM
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basalt [In reply to]
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Basalt is a very strong rock which is excellent for placing protection, its really great for trad.


offwidthclimber


Mar 27, 2002, 9:31 AM
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basalt [In reply to]
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it all depends. columnar basalt is generally pretty good for climbing cracks and placing gear. nice splitter cracks that eat up pro.

however, basalt can be choss too. there is a popular area here (frenchman coulee, washington) that has its fair share of portable handholds and crumbly edges. bolts have even been pulled out with the surrounding rock. then again, there are some pretty solid climbs at this area too.

so, anyway, long story short, it depends on the nature of the basalt. look at the fractures and weaknesses and how they occur. don't place too close the the edge of a crack if it looks as though a section could blow.

peace.


Partner phylp


Mar 27, 2002, 11:15 AM
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basalt [In reply to]
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I've climbed trad on the basalt cracks at Smith Rocks and the gear was fabulous; also solid and secure gear at a local basalt column place I climb in Sonora, CA. But the basalt at another place I've climbed in Truckee River Canyon seemed very slick to me - and the guidbook author, Mike Carville, warns that gear can skate more easily in that area. I also found the CT traprock at Ragged very slick feeling.
So I think the answer may relate to how fine the grain is. You can feel the difference at the places I've mentioned quite easily. camming units would be more affected than nuts and hexes.


kman


Mar 27, 2002, 11:38 PM
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basalt [In reply to]
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Offwidth...I am heading down to Frenchman Coulee next weekend. That is why I was wondering.

Thanks guys


apollodorus


Mar 27, 2002, 11:56 PM
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basalt [In reply to]
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Basalt is hard, mullah stuff.


roadtrip


Mar 28, 2002, 1:03 AM
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basalt [In reply to]
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I agree with offwidthclimber, basalt varies. Devil's Postpile is basalt, and its so chossy no climbing is allowed. A good rule of thumb is to look at the debris pile at the bottom of the cliff. A large pile of debris with a fresh color(ie, light) and a lack of lichen or desert polish indicates high rockfall potential, hence bad gear placement.


crackaddict


Mar 28, 2002, 1:53 PM
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basalt [In reply to]
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Basalt! Ahh! One of my favorite rock types to climb. Hard stuff. But friendly to the hands. Like everyone has told you excelent cracks but face climbing can have some real choss piles. The cracks offer some of the best placements for all types of gear. Here in my home state of AZ we have some of the best Basalt areas. If you ever come down let me know I will show you around.
Later.

[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-03-28 13:55 ]


krustyklimber


Mar 29, 2002, 8:43 PM
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basalt [In reply to]
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Kman,
Our columnar basalt is generally pretty good, takes and holds pro well (even pitons) (but only in the good layers), depending on the elevation and which lava flow (chronologically speaking) you're climbing on.
Frenchmans Coulee (Vantage) is one of our finest accessable basalt climbing areas.

He's probably on the road already so this is mostly for everyone else's benefit, If you are coming to Washington PM me or e-mail me I'll hook you up with more beta than you'll believe, there is only a small handful of our nearly 100 seperate areas that I haven't been to.

Jeff

P.S. Saying "basalt" is like saying "chocolate", there's alot of different kinds, but you did clear it up by mentioning your destination.

[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-03-29 20:47 ]


radistrad


Mar 31, 2002, 8:38 AM
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basalt [In reply to]
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I think Basalt is Bomber for trad.
I'v lead a few trad routes at the Grotto, near Sonora, CA. The rock is strong, the gear seemed solid.


ravens_wing_jim


Mar 31, 2002, 10:11 AM
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basalt [In reply to]
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I'm on my way, to climb Basalt today.
Because thats all we have around here.
Where is here?
Look to your left.

ummm...then look up,
then look down,
lay down,
roll over,
sit!
heal!
...heh, just kidding.


crackaddict


Mar 31, 2002, 2:39 PM
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basalt [In reply to]
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Is'nt it.
Look up
look down
look left
look right

What the heck are you doing?

Polish neck exercises!


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