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roughster
Feb 21, 2004, 9:05 PM
Post #1 of 41
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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This post excludes the East Side (Mammoth/Owens/Etc..)
So you just moved to the Bay Area and your looking to do some sport climbing, eh? Brace yourself, as this is not going to be pretty :( Northern California as a whole has some spectacular sport climbing, however, you must be willing to drive, develop your own, and suffer crappy weather!
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For starters, lets look at the guidebooks. The must haves and the must nots! Currently I am sporting 12 climbing guides (not including bouldering focused guides) for the greater NorCal Area, which I define as Oregon Border down to SLO, but not including SLO. The number to the left will be used lower for the best resource for a listed area.
*1-Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area by Tresa Black is probably your best to get an overview of the area. Tresa's guide does a fair job in covering most of the "established" areas within reasonable driving distance, but does not include Pinnacles, Jailhouse, and Tahoe.
*2-Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe by Mike Carville. Mike's awesome guidebook makes the Tahoe area a snap to line up. Covering all major areas except Eagle Rock.
*3-Rock Climbing Northwest California by Steven Mackay. Interesting guide that has some bad info in it, and also was pulled by Falcon when local climbers expressed concern over the publication of some access sensitive areas. Is a great introduction to some of the climbing hidden away beyond the Green Curtain of the Lost Coast and Trinity Alps areas.
*4-Yosemite Climbs: Free climbs by Don Reid. Yup, there is sport climbing in Yosemite though many will say it is like masturbating in a whore house. Some of it is quite good but will always be over shadowed by the trad climbing... Maybe..... :twisted: Having access to some of the recent articles on Yosemite is nice since many of the more recent routes are not in any guide at this point.
*5-A Climber's Guide to the Sonora Pass Highway by Young, Wolf, and Lundeen. Definitely worth getting if your looking at spending time at the areas based off of the (120) or Table Mountain. Of course the sore missing cliffs are the Gold Wall and Jailhouse, both of which are on private land with semi-access.
*6-Rock Climber's Guide to Skyline Boulevard by Bruce Morris. A good in depth guide to the climbing in this area.
*7-Climber's Guide: Pinnacles National Monument by Dave Rubine. The guide has gone through several editions, I have the 1st 2 and quite buying them after that. Mostly rehash of the previous with little new content.
*8-Bay Area Rock by Jim Thornburg. I am usually psyched about buying any guide about areas I visit, hell even those I don't! However, I would say beyond a doubt that Jim's guide (Sorry Jim) is probably one of the worst I have ever seen. Beyond just downright wrong directions, the book has poor topos and very little in the eye candy department. I would skip it unless your dying to have a "complete" collection.
*9-The Wine Country Rocks by Chris Summit. A quirky little guide that is almost a magazine in a sense since it is updated fairly often. A good compendium for the climbing to be found a long the coast which is still be developed at a good clip.
*10-Climbing Notes for the Humboldt County Coast by Douglas LaFarge. An outdated guide. Not worth having except for novelty.
*11-Big Foot Country Climbing: Limestone of the Klamath Knot and Sandstone Supplement (2 guides) by Paul Humphrey and Eric Chemello. Both are must haves if your plan on driving north basically. Well written guides with extremely good topos by Eric. Two unknown heroes of NorCal sport climbing IMO.
*12-Crazy Ass pile of hand drawn Topos, Notes, and Scribbles by me. Sitting under my guidebook collection is a mass of documents that hold the missing links to NorCal climbing. Stop by some time and I'll show you some of the stuff you haven't heard of ;)
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Now lets list some local resources for webpages on the net with sport climbing info!
13-Rockclimbing.com's very own California Page in our database. - Probably the best resource on the net for climbing locally as well as beyond!
14-Climbing Sonoma County - Napa and Santa Rosa based spots.
15-Sonora Pass Climbing - Sonora, Table Mountain, and Granite Areas.
16-Lake Tahoe Climbing - Name says it all.
17-Bay Area Climbers - Various areas around the bay.
18-Climbing Bay Area - A route database for routes. Probably the most up to date site.
19-Total Climbing Online - Mix of this and that.
20-Clint Cummins Website - Lots of different stuff including a very good Pinnacles resource.
21-Mojo - Mostly trip reports.
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Ok now that is out of the way, lets look at the major areas (Pictures are from our database. They are not all mine! Please click on the image to see the photo credits!!) Also, each crag name in blue is a clickable link to the listing in our route database if there is one.
Moving out of the Bay in a Counter clockwise pattern. The numbers/icons on the Overview are just an approximation of location. The numbers in the text descriptions (EX: Mickey's Beach (->1<-)) are linking you back to the references (guides and websites) listed above.
OVERVIEW
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=26326
Mickey's Beach (1) and close by areas: Eh? Its hard to get a good feel for these areas unless you are local and willing to risk getting skunked. I have been there on sun drenched days where it was too hot, and I have been there when it was cloudy, crappy, and wet. Not a lot of low level sport climbs, especially on the main rock, but enough to keep you busy. There are some good 12s and 13s if your at that level but over all, I best qualify this area as a local resource. The parking can be heinous on summer days where you'll be vying for parking with beach goers to the nearby Nude Beach. The rock is varied from serpentine, greywacke, and sandstone, and features angular holds that can be on the tad sharp side. Unfortunately as with all costal areas, be prepared to constantly clean out or off the holds of sand and other various sea side debris.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=21571
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Castle Rock (6): Short, a bit soft, and with a lot of the "sport climbs" requiring gear I am not sure if I would call them sport climbs ;) This place will never be a sport climbing destination, well especially since it is known mostly for its bouldering. It does feature some cool looking rock, but with the windy roads to get there, IMO it, much like Mickey's, will be best utilized by those living in the South Bay.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=5360
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The Pinnacles (7,20): Not too shabby of an area and it is only getting better "sport-wise". A cool conglomerate volcanic rock, has giant embedded cobbles sticking out of the matrix. Home to POD (Post Orgasmic Depression) and other great climbs, Bear Gulch sees the most traffic. Another nice thing is the area seems to dry out pretty fast. The bad news is its relatively far for everyone except South Bay climbers, and coming in from points either east or north of the Bay make it a full day for just the driving, a little bit of climbing, and back in the car for more driving.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=31322
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Sonora (5,15,19): Circling east from here brings us to the Sonora area climbing spots. I will admit, I am certainly not the expert here, mungeclimber, should be the one with the info, but some newer granite sport routes are going up in the Chipmunk Flats, Lost World, and Burst Rock Area. See Sonora Pass Climbing for more info.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=17666
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Calaveras Dome, Hammer Dome, Hidden Wall: have some more recently developed sport climbing. See Climbing #194 for pics, topos, and info.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=9227
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Table Mountain(5,15,20): The Grotto which is well known along with others like Fissures, White Room, etc all feature great climbing on well featured basalt. The Grotto sees the most action since it has the largest collection of moderate routes in close proximity to one another, as well as the fact it stays relatively cool at the base of the crag due to being slightly submerged and below the tree line. There are some worthwhile routes at the other areas, though you will be much more limited in selection. Watch out for poison oak as it is very prolific in the area.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=6490
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Jailhouse and Gold Wall: Both are great spots but as mentioned earlier, both have access issues. Jailhouse also carries the baggage of having the easiest route there 5.11d. Warming up is best done at home or on the way, as once you get to the crag, its onto your project generally. Because of the private land, a verbal "truce" has been established with owner under the premise that climbing is allowed as long as there isn't a print guide for the area. Locals will gnash their teeth and puff out their 125 lbs chests if they feel threatened. Some really nice people go here, some real idiots go as well. Prepare to get the stink eye from the later until you have either showed a proper level of hero worship. The Gold Wall is a "newer" development and there is a topo circulating around if you ask the right people. The climbing is good and more moderate than Jailhouse.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=13687
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Column of the Giants(5): Similar to Jailhouse just a further drive, but on public land! Steep basalt climbing here, in fact some of the steepest routes in the state are here.
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Yosemite(4): While you will find scattered sport routes throughout the park, and even some of the longer routes are pure bolt protected (Crest Jewel comes to mind) the main sport climbing happens at 2 or 3 spots. The Knobby Wall is great for steep climbs.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=9582
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Tahoe(2,16): The main sport climbing areas here are good, really good, however the one true "shining star" is locked up for a good part of the year. See below for more info:
Coming in from the South, we'll start at:
Granite Areas(2): Sugarloaf and Phantom Spires each have a few sport climbs, but not worth the stop IMO for pure sport climbing.
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Lovers Leap (2) is not exactly a sport climbing destination, but has a few. Interesting moves on horizontal dikes, however most people will go here to trad climb. But don't dismay if your a sport climber as the 20 or so sport routes will keep you busy!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=19738
Not my pic, but it shows the crazy dikes!
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Various Echo Lake Crags/Pieshop/Xmas Tree Pass/Etc...: Also sport some, but most is dispersed among several areas with no true "epicenter" for sport climbing.
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Mayhem Cove(2) is blocky granite with a great view. This are is on the South West side of the lake accessed from the (50). 25 or so routes spread out in the grades.
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Hooking around the Lake to the East:
Volcanic Areas:
Cave Rock (2,16) is steep climbing along the highway though the current lawsuit by the AF is the only thing keeping it open and stopping it from being stripped.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=22876
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Trippy Rock and Spooner Crag actually offer a days worth of climbing and is pretty fun, though nothing spectacular. Eagle Rock is found driving down (89) from the north, on the right hand you will notice a few boulders and a larger formation right near the road. Several lines are up, with potential for more. Not sure who is developing it, but the routes I got on were fun albeit a bit sharp.
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Big Chief(2,16) is probably Northern California's only true sport climbing area. Highly featured basalt overlooking the Truckee River. This place is sweet. A semi-stiff hike in gets you warmed up and then the steep pumpy routes will keep it going. Its too bad the winter approach sucks and the gate gets locked. The 50+ routes are all bolted and are great.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=7248
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Moving back West down the (80) corridor you hit:
Donner Summit (2) is more granite and sharp too boot. Some of the walls are decent, Star Wall comes to mind, but I have never been overly impressed. The rock just doesn't inspire me and the climbing consists primarily of crimp, crimp, more crimp, crimp some more, than finish it off with crimping. The Road Cut and Star Walls offer the best this area has, with the Snowshed Wall and Space Wall filling out the rest of the major sport climbing walls.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=24022
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Emeralds (2) which themselves are pretty nice, however... Spaulding Lake release has demolished much of the best climbing the area used to offer with many routes missing hangers, or now have had the base raised by 30 feet or so. Some of the other cliffs are interesting, but by themselves do not offer much of a destination.
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Bowman Lake Crag (2) is a cool crag further passed the Emeralds. Too bad the hill leading to the base is so steep that it makes the whole process of climbing there a balancing act. Takes a bit of driving on a dirt road as well to get there. The rock reminds me of Williamson in Southern Cal, there just is not as many routes nor is there as much potential. Rumor has it the large green slab on the right just before reaching Bowman is being developed. Maybe more info soon?!?!
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Coming in further West along the (80) you hit Auburn (13). The much lamented Auburn I must add. Access issues are still keeping what many feel is some of the best sport climbing in a 200+ mile radius from hitting the big time. The Access Fund is involved in the fight, but it looks like it is going to be a long slow battle. Almost 50 routes, all sport climbs from 5.7 - 5.13 and beyond projects. The are already has two multipitch routes with loads of untouched rock. If access is ever secured, this will be the best Bay/Sacramento area period for sport climbing.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=16319
UPDATE: Looks like things are moving forward slightly. The SRA is looking at drafting and implimenting its resource managment plan and possibly including climbing if it is determined to be a "compatable" use. Current timeline has been stated at ~2 years.
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Coming back in from Sacramento along the (80) you pass Fairfield and the newest (still under development) sport climbing crag, Rockville (13). The rock here is pure choss. And yet, I just can't stay away ;) Some of the routes are going to be stellar when all cleaned up, but right now they are literally death routes. At 1st we tried 3/8" bolts. No good. Then 1/2" (current state) and some placements wouldn't hold a fall if they had to. So... I have placed an order for glue ins. When these comes in, development will continue. The area has a small bit of potential and will never be a destination, and yet for Davis, Vacaville, and Fairfield climbers, it will be worthwhile. More info coming!
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Slightly to the south is Mt Diablo (1). Soft sandstone with a few sport routes that can take up a day or two. The area is popular with rapellers and Gang Top-Ropers ;) I just wish there was more rock! About 10 sport routes and 15 or so TRs.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=2819
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Next up in our tour is the Napa Area. One of the most impressive "could have been crags" is Stags Leap outside of Yountsville. The land is all owned by a winery. Some day I may start poking around for access, but I would never expect it to happen. The cliffs are pretty damn sweet and the potential is buko!
Mt St. Helena (9,1) offers 50 or so bolted routes. Many get hung up at the Bubble with its flat base, but the Bear is the real gem of the area. The Far Side could have been something pretty good, but the older routes were evidentially developed with the theme that decking between each bolt (no matter which bolt they may be) would be a good idea :( A few newer routes have been put up in much better style, but many of the good lines were already "ruined". A motivated person could seek out the FAist and see if the routes could be reworked to current standards, but it won't be me :)
The approach is stiff to pretty much all the areas on St Helena @ about 1 hour uphill. This keeps the crowds down, however its due south facing aspects keep the climbing great during the winter when it is not raining, but almost unbearably hot during the summer. There is still more potential in the area for new routes.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=6439
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Coming back in to the bay and heading north puts you firmly into the area covered by Wine Country Rocks. This area is predominately sea side crags. 1st up is Dry Creek Sea Crag (9,1). 20 or so routes with a decent spread in the grades, including some steep high end routes like Jury Duty 5.13c.
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Secrets (13) which has been discussed here on this site. Pssst... its a secret "GET IT??" heheh :) Just poking fun Chris :lol: Anyways, more sea cliff climbing. Since the area is so secret, there isn't a lot of info yet!
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Fisk Mill Cove (18,14,9) is a little more out there and features a good selection of sport routes in a great setting. Fisk Mill on Climbing Bay Area.com is the best resource of info.
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Which wraps up most of the known coastal areas. One other area before we get to the Humboldt areas is Squaw Cliff (9,18). Have to cross the Russian River to get to it, and then once there, some crumbly rock. But eh? Somewhere new to go so I am not complaining! Best info is here: Squaw Cliff on Climbing Bay Area.com
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Now we get to the Humboldt areas and those hiding behind the Green Curtain. I personally feel that points north of the Bay to Sac line offers the most climbing opportunities in the future. The areas has a good smattering of Volcanic (Mt Lassen anyone?) to Limestone (Trinity/Klamath Knott), Sandstone (Coastal Areas), and Granite (a little place called Castle Crags comes to mind). Furthermore, places up near the border remain untouched though they lay right beside the road.
Heading up the coast, the 1st Sport Climbing place you hit is Elephant Rock (11,3). Semi-sea side it is on the right side of the (101) a few miles past Arcata (directly opposite from Moonstone). The rock is funky sandstone and some of the routes are RB (Removable Bolt) developed. Bad bad as now they don't even make RBs any more! Anyways... 20 or so routes up to 5.13a. No approach which is kind of nice!
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Luffenholtz and Patricks Point (11,3) both have sport climbing but with limited routes. IMO your best bet is to keep going north up the (101) to Promontory (11,3). This amazing crag sits right on the oceans edge and features some crazy web-like pockets. You have probably seen pictures of this wall in Climbing or Rock and Ice and it was featured in the NorCal article not too long ago. The rock here is pretty good, but the nearby tot he sea exposure makes sand a huge issue. Basically its like doing a FA every time you climb here since the tide brings the sand back every time.
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Footsteps (11,3) is close by and also features more routes in an amazing setting on the coast. Similar in both rock and "issues" with Promontory, the two areas combined make for some great climbing if your in the area.
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Heading inland from the coast on the (299) head towards Orleans on the (96), and then hanging a right on Salmon River Road will eventually get you to the Cecilville Limestone Bluff (11). This place is amazing! Gold and blue streaked limestone that is probably the most impressive wall in the state. However the drive out here is hellacious! Single lane, falling apart, scary as all get out. If it wasn't a nightmare to get to, this place would be amazing! About 20 routes all the way up to 13c so far.
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Instead of turning off on the (96) if you keep going east on the (299) you'll get to Brunt Ranch and Trinity Aretes(11,3). 40 routes some of absolutely awesome quality are hidden on this plug of limestone in the middle of a dense forest.
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Further still on the (299) and you hit Redding. The key here is keep going about 25 miles east of Redding and you can climb at The Shredding (11). 15 routes from 10c to 13c. The rock is a kitty litter-like limestone conglomerate that while being grungy, is highly featured. Worth a stop if your in the Redding area for sure.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=7374
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Coming back down the (5) from Redding you hit Red Bluff. If you pop West here on the (36) to Wildwood, then take a back road towards Hayfork, you'll find Natural Bridge (11,3). This dual cave and surrounding walls offer killer tufa, pocket, and block climbing. Some of the route are long and steep and of the VERY hard variety, while others are short and savage. Routes as easy as 10a and as hard as 14a here. The area is plagued by access issues and there is a voluntary bolting ban. This is still the case as all regulations are completely verified by the NFS as being "Voluntary". The crux if the issue is Indian significance and popularity with the local Hayfork people both visiting, throwing beer bottles off of the top of the cliff, yelling obscenities at the top of their lungs for no reason, and breaking into your car. If you do visit this are, maintain a low profile and be respectful of any contacts you may have with local indian tribal members and the NFS. Continued access may hinge on a single encounter!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=7375
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Further west along the (36) is the turn off to Marble Caves (11,3). A lot of RBs were used here, DOH! and the approach is really hard on your vehicle unless you have 4-W drive. Never the less, 15 routes or so on high quality limestone for those interested.
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Ok so we have wrapped up the Klamath Limestone, but there is still more lurking in our state. Mostly areas around Lassen and Chico. Eagle Cliff(3) inside of Lassen Park off of the (89) is a good spot for some sport climbing. A short cliff band of diacite has been developed with about 30 sport routes, but there are others to be had in the surrounding cliffs as well.
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The final stop on our road trip is Grizzly Dome(3). Take the (70) north towards Quincy and you pass through some tunnels of which Plumas Slab and Grizzly Dome sit just on their right side. Although this area is primarily bolt protected, some of the routes are a stretch to call "sport routes". However there is stuff there for everyone, but the climbing is mostly slab on granite.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=10488
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Potential? You bet :) I know of one area not mentioned here under development that has a TON of potential for awesome sport routes and it is closer than you would guess! Driving the back roads and criss-crossing our state is sure to yield developable rock for those interested. Seeing the untouched cliffs 1st hand, I can vouch they are there. It is just going to take some motivated people to develop them.
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Update:
Major new sport climbing cliff is under development! Currently the area is closing in on 50 routes! :shock: Right now there are two multipitch climbs developed: a 3 pitch 5.11a and a 4 pitch 5.12+. There is still a lot of potential for more multipitch routes as well!
The rock is highly featured with them running the gambit from pockets and slopers, to rails, and pinches. The angle varies from slabby to roofs, and everything in between! Current "guesstimate" on total # of possible route is hundreds!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=33200
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=26773
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=28138
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maculated
Feb 21, 2004, 10:29 PM
Post #2 of 41
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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Wow, Aaron.
You should make this an article.
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roughster
Feb 22, 2004, 1:05 AM
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Eh if da big wigs want to make it one, I wouldn't have a prob with it :)
Oh and for anyone who reads it, if you like it, make a short post even if just to say "bump" for others to see.
Thanks!
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justincoyle
Feb 22, 2004, 1:43 AM
Post #4 of 41
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Registered: Nov 14, 2003
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I dig it
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roughster
Feb 22, 2004, 5:07 AM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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ty :)
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mungeclimber
Feb 22, 2004, 5:35 AM
Post #6 of 41
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Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 648
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nice collection
fyi- for "Column of the Giants" and "Table Mountain" areas you can score some beta on the http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com site. Though alas I don't have a topo for Gold Wall that I can give out. Plus there is now a local forum for folks that climb along the Highway 108 corridor/Sonora pass.
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asandh
Feb 22, 2004, 4:47 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
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:)
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roughster
Feb 22, 2004, 8:25 PM
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:)
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caughtinside
Feb 23, 2004, 10:11 PM
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Nice going. There's rocks to be climbed around here!
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roughster
Feb 23, 2004, 11:52 PM
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In reply to: Nice going. There's rocks to be climbed around here!
LIAR!! :)
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bliew
Feb 24, 2004, 8:01 AM
Post #11 of 41
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Registered: Sep 19, 2003
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Wow, roughster, that's an excellent summary of the local climbing areas. Nice work!
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dalai
Feb 24, 2004, 10:31 AM
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Registered: Apr 23, 2003
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Very nice work!! I based myself in San Fransisco on a 6 month climbing trip in 1995 and enjoyed reading about some of the crags I spent time at.
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roughster
Feb 24, 2004, 1:13 PM
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In reply to: Very nice work!! I based myself in San Fransisco on a 6 month climbing trip in 1995 and enjoyed reading about some of the crags I spent time at.
Hopefully we will get a break in the weather and I can get some shots of the areas w/o pics as well as maybe reveal a secret or two about NorCal that not many know about :shock:
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poppasmearf
Feb 24, 2004, 1:57 PM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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:shock: very extensive! Thank you so much. This answers many questions I have been pondering. This post is a great resource. Me finks me oughta print it out :wink:
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yomomma
Feb 24, 2004, 3:12 PM
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Registered: May 26, 2003
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Great post! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
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roughster
Feb 25, 2004, 12:44 AM
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Right on! I think we are looking forward to blue skies and I figured I could post something that would remind us of what we are "waiting for" when the clouds finally melt away!
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dalai
Feb 25, 2004, 2:05 AM
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Registered: Apr 23, 2003
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Great to see development continuing. Went on quite a few days out at Jailhouse and Mickeys Beach!!
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mrtropy
Feb 25, 2004, 4:14 AM
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Just to keep the facts straight, the photo for Sonora Pass is really on Ebbetts Pass. But posted under Sonora Pass due to laziness and land (not access) concerns. Thanks for the post. Let's here more about the new area.
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roughster
Feb 25, 2004, 6:41 AM
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In reply to: Just to keep the facts straight, the photo for Sonora Pass is really on Ebbetts Pass. But posted under Sonora Pass due to laziness and land (not access) concerns. Thanks for the post. Let's here more about the new area.
Yeah, munge let me know as well :) I'll swap it out with some legit photos when I update the thread. Right now there are actually two new areas going up, but both have been placed on hold due to this freaking weather non-sense which has been blasting NorCal.
Hopefully I'll be able to get some shots and start getting some info out about the new areas once we get a few weekends of clear weather.
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roughster
Mar 9, 2004, 5:01 AM
Post #20 of 41
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Added some minor info.
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roughster
Mar 9, 2004, 5:08 AM
Post #21 of 41
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
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Have you ever bought someone the "perfect" xmas gift and you're bouncing off the walls leading up to Xmas because you want to tell them about it so badly?
Thats me right now as it is related to NorCal Sport Climbing....
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
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mrfantastic
Mar 16, 2004, 5:58 AM
Post #23 of 41
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Registered: Nov 14, 2003
Posts: 12
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Awsome guide roughster! I'm from NorCal (Sac specifically), but go to school down at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo (great climbing here). Once I graduate I'm headed back up north and can hopefully hit up some of those spots in your guide :)
Actually, I've hit one spot up in your guide, Pinnacles, two times. Loved the climbing there.
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roughster
Mar 16, 2004, 8:08 AM
Post #24 of 41
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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In reply to: Awsome guide roughster! I'm from NorCal (Sac specifically), but go to school down at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo (great climbing here). Once I graduate I'm headed back up north and can hopefully hit up some of those spots in your guide :) Actually, I've hit one spot up in your guide, Pinnacles, two times. Loved the climbing there.
Yeah when I moved up here I had visions of great sport climbing waiting for me. Needless to say, that turned out to not exactly be the truth...yet. As it turns out, the sport climbing opportunities are here, they are just a bit harder to find and take a bit more driving than I had hoped for, but they are here!
Development is on going at a new area which will be IMO quite popular when the info is out. In addition, some smaller crag development is still ongoing, but it has been pushed aside for the moment due to the big discovery so to speak.
The new area has 7 routes that number is only going to keep growing continually over the following weekend. I think the plan is ~50 routes and then the 1st bits of info will be released. Going at the current rate which is say 4 routes per weekend as long as the weather holds, by the end of summer NorCal will have a new sport climbing destination on the map.
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roughster
Jun 8, 2004, 6:04 AM
Post #25 of 41
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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Small update with some new pics. I have some pics of Rockville I will upload in a day or so and add, so at least people can see what it looks like.
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