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*thriller*
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Feb 26, 2004, 3:11 AM
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Hey
So I'm graduating University this spring, and I'm planning on going on a bit of a roadtrip, with climbing as the main focus. I'm finished exams in mid-april, but want to be back for Convocation ceremonies in mid-june, so I've got about 8 weeks in there to go for a nice trip, and I was looking for some suggestions. Right now I sport lead easy 5.10, and I am willing to toprope anything. I got a set of curve nuts for christmas and I have trad draws, and I'm hoping to pick up some more gear (small tricams and if i can afford it 0.5, 1, 2 camalots) but I don't have any trad experience yet.
I'm starting and ending this trip in Waterloo, Ontario - near Toronto. The idea I have right now is to head straight for Potrero Chico for a couple weeks (?) in April to do some multi-pitch sport climbs before it gets too hot down there, then head up the west side of the US and come back across Canada in June. What to do in between is the real question. I'd really like to hit up Yosemite - even if it's just to hang out and boulder for a few days. If I'm making this roadtrip by myself (not sure yet) then I was thinking of just staying in camp 4 for most of the trip and meeting new partners there - but that may be difficult since I have very little trad experience (though I am willing to learn). If Yosemite's not for me, or my climbing partner comes with me (doesn't like trad), I/we would then head north. Now I know there's at least a dozen good sport areas along there in cali, colorado, utah, oregon, washington, BC, etc, so in your opinion would it be better to go to 2 or 3 places for a few weeks each, or 6 or 8 places for a few days each?? Also, I know squamish is a great summer climbing locale, but is there a common camping area where I'll be able to meet climbing partners?
So, my basic questions are these:
a few stops for a while or a bunch of shorter stops
what would be your 'must-go-to' places out west
how is squamish for a weeks-long camp-out climb are in May
anyone else in Ontario that wants to make the trek with me/us??
-Ian
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dynoguy
Feb 26, 2004, 3:16 AM
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I can answer two of those
I would go with a few long stop overs.
DEFINITELY stop at Smith
If you like sport climbing you'll love Smith.
Let me know when, if you do, go to Smith and I'll try to head up that week/weekend and show you around.
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*thriller*
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Feb 26, 2004, 3:30 PM
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bump
anybody else??
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meatball
Feb 26, 2004, 3:57 PM
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On your way north from Potrero to Smith you could break it up by stopping at Continental Ranch (private ranch near Del Rio, Texas on the Pecos River near the Mexican border). Check it out at pecosriverclimbing.com and call ahead to get a gate combo. The setting is AMAZING and climbing is predominately sport with many good lines in your range. Traffic is very light there so you may want to line up a partner.
Continental Ranch would be a great stop off on the way to HUECO TANKS! Take a spotter a pad and a drip pan to catch your drool. The Tanks (not trying to insult your intelligence if you already know about it) is near El Paso, Texas and would get you pretty far west for the rest of your trip. Also need to make reservations ahead of time for North Mountain unless you want to fork over the money for a guided tour (probably not worth it if it is your first trip...plenty of excellent rock to be had).
Oh yeah, and you should definately stop in Dallas and pick me up on your way to Potrero.
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ryanhurl
Feb 26, 2004, 4:07 PM
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I would go with City of Rocks, ID. Smith Rock, and you should stop in Yosemite even if you aren't going to hardcore climb just to enjoy the atmosphere and do a little bouldering.
If you're doing a trip for more than just climbing, I would try to hit up Escalante and Zion national parks. They're both near each other in southern UT. Some really cool canyon hikes and you could climb at Zion, though I know nothing about what kind of ratings are up in there.
I did what you're going to do last summer when I graduated. Everything kind of fell into place at the last minute and it was awesome. Hope you have as good a time as I did.
PM me and I can give you more info/pics on places to stay and see if you're interested.
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grog
Feb 26, 2004, 5:14 PM
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Let me first say that i really envy you.
As for Squamish, there used to be a free semi-legal camping area by the river (now closed). The provincial camp ground is good, something like 6 bucks a night, and a 5 minute walk from the grand wall, (mostly trad there, but the bouldering is awesome!). You cant miss the campground, Im assuming you're heading north to squamish, just pull in to the well marked viewing area, the south end has a road to the campsites. Meeting climbers there wont be a problem. If you're just getting into trad, you should check out the bluffs. Cheakamus Canyon (half an hour north) has more sport climbing, but the rock isnt as good. Hope you have a great trip!
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