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Best Granite Sport Climbing area in the world?
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deco


Feb 26, 2004, 9:37 PM
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Best Granite Sport Climbing area in the world?
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Everthing is limestone...i just wonder if there´s any granite out there?

Yosemite is definitely not an option...


couloir


Feb 26, 2004, 9:44 PM
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Why is Yosemite not an option?


crankenstein


Feb 26, 2004, 9:55 PM
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City of Rocks, Idaho! May depend on what you want from a sport climb, but there are many quality lines there. The climbs are easy to find, close together and a LOT of fun.


deco


Feb 26, 2004, 10:02 PM
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I am looking for some moderate-hard stuff , like 5.13+`s....


innominato


Feb 26, 2004, 11:16 PM
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Sport Park--Boulder Canyon, Colorado. Even if you're a 5.12a climber, you'll be sending 5.13+.

If I were you, and looking for harder sport stuff, I'd be thinking gneiss. Campambiardo, in Italy, near Torino, is the best I've seen, up to 8b. Also, Donnaz, in Val D' Aosta, might actually be granite, up to 8c, and is mostly not chipped.

Yup.

Oh, fuck. Also, Mount Lemmon, at least most of the stuff on the Beaver Wall. Stray too far off course on the harder routes and you'll find yourself grabbing banana-shaped finger pockets. Pockets, you ask? How did those get there? Beats me.


kalcario


Feb 26, 2004, 11:27 PM
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There's stacks of 13+ sport routes on Yosemite granite, Reed's Pinnacle and South Whizz Dome spring to mind, also stuff on Medlicott...they're easy to train for too, just take the change out of your pocket, superglue it to any 90 degree cement wall...and start pimpin


warloc


Feb 27, 2004, 12:16 AM
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In Madrid (Spain) we have a massive granite sport climbing area. It has more than 1500 routes all grades range (from III up to 5.13d). There are hundreds of friction slabs and vertical crimpy routes, and also a little overhanging ones. You also can find plenty of trad-routes as well. It is a fantastic place also full of boulders. If any granite-fanatic wants to check it in a trip to Spain, it is called La Pedriza.
PD: I enjoy a lot more climbing in limestone... :roll:
Have fun :wink:


deco


Feb 27, 2004, 12:54 AM
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I´d rather limestone too.
I was just curious, ´cause here in Brazil most of the stuff are granite, with tiny edges..at least when you go to a limestone area , you think that all the holds are pretty good!!


yanqui


Feb 27, 2004, 5:16 AM
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:roll:
Since when is 5.13+ on granite moderate-hard?
If that's the grade you want, how about the crux pitch on the nose or maybe the crux pitch on Zodiac? I hear those are moderate-hard. You could even get your name in climbing magazine.


dontfall


Feb 27, 2004, 5:24 AM
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dontfall moved this thread from General to Sport Climbing.


yanqui


Feb 27, 2004, 11:05 AM
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I didn't mean to put the damper on this one. The thing is, most of the truely great granite cragging areas, like Joshua Tree or City of Rocks have a mix of trad and sport routes. Since you seem to be interested in big numbers, I can tell you that here in Argentina, Los Gigantes has some nice, bolt protected 5.12 granite face climbs maybe up to 5.12+ in difficulty and La Ola has more gymnastic, overhanging granite sport climbs that perhaps reach mid 5.13 (sorry, no 5.13+). The really great Argentine granite cragging area, El Frey has gobs of fantastic routes on granite, but not so many big numbers and even fewer sport routes, although some of the nicest routes I've done there involve much more bolt clipping than gear placements. And I think you might find that, even some of the (more or less) well bolted Argentine 7a's and 7b's in Frey can be kind of challenging. But on the other hand, don't you have Wolfgang Gullich's 5.13+ Southern Comfort there in Brasil?


jipstyle


Feb 28, 2004, 12:10 PM
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Squamish, British Columbia.

:D


bvb


Feb 28, 2004, 12:19 PM
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hint: it's in a fairly remote mountain range in utah. best granite sport climbing in the u.s., hands down. can't speak for all the world, but i'm sure it'd be in the top three on a planetary basis.

surprised nobody has mentioned the needles in cali. that area would certainly be in the running....

and that's all i'm gonna say about that.


timstich


Mar 7, 2004, 4:06 PM
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You're talking about St. George, aren't you bvb? Just head the scuttle butt on that place at a Clear Creek area.


mungeclimber


Mar 7, 2004, 4:30 PM
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In reply to:
hint: it's in a fairly remote mountain range in utah. best granite sport climbing in the u.s., hands down. can't speak for all the world, but i'm sure it'd be in the top three on a planetary basis.

surprised nobody has mentioned the needles in cali. that area would certainly be in the running....

and that's all i'm gonna say about that.

needles is muy pretty. I still haven't been. Crime against climbing humanity.


climbsomething


Mar 7, 2004, 4:35 PM
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Oh, f---. Also, Mount Lemmon, at least most of the stuff on the Beaver Wall. Stray too far off course on the harder routes and you'll find yourself grabbing banana-shaped finger pockets. Pockets, you ask? How did those get there? Beats me.
heh.

if that's too hard, try Ridgeline further up the highway. heh heh.


holmeslovesguinness


Mar 7, 2004, 4:41 PM
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The Monastery up near Estes Park, CO, has some pretty frickin' sweet granite (well, schist and gneiss I think) sport climbing. There are quite a few really stout lines there, but also a lot for mere mortals.


rockprodigy


Mar 8, 2004, 12:03 PM
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In reply to:
hint: it's in a fairly remote mountain range in utah. best granite sport climbing in the u.s., hands down.

I'm pretty sure that's Rhyolite...or some other form of volcanic rock. I know there are some people who claim it's granite, but I've never seen granite form pockets like that. I'm not a geologist, though.

My vote would go to City of Rocks...I've never seen granite anywhere else that compares in terms of gymnastic climbing potential.

Independence Pass in CO has some well featured granite as well.


climbsomething


Mar 8, 2004, 12:08 PM
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...is Rumney some kind of granite? Schist?


timstich


Mar 8, 2004, 6:58 PM
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...is Rumney some kind of granite? Schist?

I believe it is schist.


whitefingers


Mar 8, 2004, 8:11 PM
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Minihaha in Spokane WA, LOL.


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Mar 8, 2004, 8:38 PM
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drilling bolts into granite SUCKS (notice my pointless use of caplocks for emphasis) especially if you do it by hand.


yanqui


Mar 9, 2004, 12:37 PM
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Wait a minute there, bucko
Minnehaha may have a few nice boulder problems and there certainly are a few pretty nice classic routes, but Minnehaha definitely ain't no sport climbing area. We're talking like, 4 bolted routes, tops, unless things have changed radically since my last visit.

You could at least have said Dishman Wall, which is also granite (I guess) and has (or at least used to have) a significantly larger proportion of sport climbs.

Anyways, it's the nice to see the old place showing up on the internet.


bouldersdothebodygood


Mar 16, 2004, 9:00 PM
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mabey not the best but a good one is fergeson less know place in ut


granut


Mar 16, 2004, 11:02 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Oh, f---. Also, Mount Lemmon, at least most of the stuff on the Beaver Wall. Stray too far off course on the harder routes and you'll find yourself grabbing banana-shaped finger pockets. Pockets, you ask? How did those get there? Beats me.
heh.

if that's too hard, try Ridgeline further up the highway. heh heh.


How is Mt. Lemmon after the fires. I went up there quite frequently last year before the fires.

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