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dustinap
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Mar 31, 2002, 1:13 AM
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My bouldering really sucks. I am not sure if I'm simply not strong enough, don't boulder enough, what. I feel really unbalanced though. Today, at my local plastic palace I tried bouldering, my first time in awhile, and scent most V3's, did one V4 and got spanked on some other V4's.
Now, it's not that I'm obsessed with grades, but I feel I should be climbing harder, and I want to know how to improve. My understanding is V3 is about 5.11A. Friday night I lead a 5.13A in the same gym. [BTW, I wish I was outside this weekend!]
So, for all of you climbers, that actually tie in, what is your secret to better bouldering?
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miagi
Mar 31, 2002, 5:32 AM
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The rating system isnt perfected yet. Some V4's are harder or easier than other V4's. Also you might have been tired out after the first few problems. General secrets for bouldering? Well, all i can say is just climb, and workout mentally and physically. Another key thing is to give your hands and body some rest time. Its really hard getting off the rock, but once your refreshed, everything is much easier.
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dontneedfeet
Mar 31, 2002, 6:54 AM
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I just got back from a climbing trip, and I'll vouch for Miagi - the rating system is completely messed up. I did V4/5 faster than V1 a few times...
The way I see it - take a V rating - add and subtract about 3 to the rating and you've got an vague idea of how hard it is.
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natec
Mar 31, 2002, 3:39 PM
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Some areas are known for sandbagged problems as well. As Miagi recently found out, a V0+ in McConnells Mill, Pa is probably V2 elsewhere. This will add to your frustration.
My advice would be to work a prob. that is well under your ability. Turn the dyno moves into static ones. Do the problem as graceful as possible, make the point to be about the moves and not about the send.
Work your way back to your current level by doing this. You will be impressed at how much your bouldering will improve from your new found static strength.
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miagi
Apr 2, 2002, 4:59 PM
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Ive somewhat given up on the rating game. Right now im judging on what i can climb...just for a broad spectrum. After that im just going to eye down a route and see if it is to my ability, then see what it was rated. I dont feel like getting P#ssed off when i fall off a boulder or route when i know its something like a 5.9. Ill find out later.
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metoliusmunchkin
Apr 3, 2002, 8:48 PM
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Dustin, not in any way did I perceive your post to imply that you were obsessed with grades. Many people simply use the grading systems as a way of measuring their advances.
I have been bouldering for a long time, and indoors as well. My bouldering habits are very much alike with that or your own, with the exception of the fact that my bouldering area lacks grades, and my advances are therefore uncomprehensible.
You must be quite a hard climber if I do say so myself. If you would look at the accomplishment of a V4 as a bad climbing outing, then you must be pretty damn good! (Now, I've seen many of these hardmen/women on rock videos, and they're cranking on some V13's, but that's just not the norm. The fact that can climb that high is a great accomplishment).
Try to think of every climbing outing as an accomplishment, thus will let you become more and more motivated to climb often. If you are motivated to climb often, your advance will be much more indelible.
It seems to me that you are at that well versed in the realm of technique as well, so I then would hypothesize that your balance may be better than you perceive, yet is something on which that you have not accented your training.
This is to say that whenever a climber should find a flaw in his technique, or way of overcoming certain climbing obstacles, he/she should train that technique until the weakness becomes a strength.
I would not doubt your word whatever, however I feel that you have some skills that you yourself do no know you have.
~Hope I may have been of some service my good lad!
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