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pjcozzi
Mar 2, 2004, 10:47 PM
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For TRing, I have a 50’ piece of static rope with 8’ of tubular webbing over the middle. At the center, I tied an 8 and have two opposing, locking biners. My question is, should I tie and untie the 8 before and after each use? Is it possible the rope in the webbing will get damaged and I won’t notice? Thanks in advance!
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tucsonalex
Mar 2, 2004, 10:53 PM
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Chances are if there is any damage to the rope their will also be damage to the webbing. Just squeeze the rope between your fingers and check for soft spots, which indicate damage to the core of the rope.
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igsaisb
Mar 3, 2004, 11:01 PM
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I use static rope for TR anchors as well. I would suggest untying the figure eight (I assume on a bight) that you clip through as I have found that I rarely get the anchor equalized in the exact same spot on the rope everytime. Separately, I have also found it convenient to have various segments of tubular webbing as moveable protectors. You never know where the rope may cross a sharp spot. Regards, JLC Edit for typo.
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geezergecko
Mar 3, 2004, 11:21 PM
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I use the same setup and untie the knot if just to make packing it away easier. I'm guessing that untying and retying will relocate the stress points of the knot. A static rope with a tubular webbing sleeve is a great top rope setup. It is described in the book "Rock Climbing A Trailside Guide" by Don Mellor.
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jakedatc
Mar 3, 2004, 11:23 PM
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In reply to: I rarely get the anchor equalized in the exact same spot on the rope everytime. If you sling 2 trees, rocks, bolts whatever you anchor to.. then put a locking biners on those loops. Then clove hitch the 2 ends of your static line to those biners you can equalize them without untying the figure 8 in the middle.. just adjust the hitch. Does leaving the figure 8 weaken the knot at all? i dunno.. will be a PIA to untie eventually but if it doesnt weaken then just keep it tied. the movable pieces of webbing on the static is a good idea that i have seen on a few setups.. works really well.. having a piece that stays in the loop of the figure 8 would be nice though to keep that protected.
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berkov
Mar 4, 2004, 4:15 AM
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I havn't used static rope for top rope anchors yet and I was wondering if there are any online guides that deal with TR specifically or any tips and tricks you can share with me would be great how do you bring all the points together so that you don't have a bundle too thick to clip to?
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jakedatc
Mar 4, 2004, 4:34 AM
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how long is the static rope? one long piece is what i've seen. -- tie a figure8 on a bight in the middle of the static line. slide a few 2-3ft sections of tubular webbing onto each end for protecting over edges. --keep 2 sections of webbing to loop around trees, rocks, though bolts or connect to trad gear (all with a water knot closing the loop). --Locking biners on each of the 2 webbing loops.. clove hitch each end of the static line to these biners.. --adjust the length of each end of the static line using the clove hitches until it's equalized that make sense? Jake
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lousyclimber
Mar 4, 2004, 9:11 AM
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I guide with static ropes as TR set-ups, and always use a double-looped figure-eight to clip the rope through. That is a good extra insurance. I would always re-tie the rope to let different areas take the wear. Using clove hitches anywhere on a TR is asking for trouble, and should always be backed up with a "real" knot. The AMGA guide handbook recommends only using clove hitches where they can be watched at all times, such as at on belay anchors for multi-pitch routes. I like the webbing sheath idea, but would always inspect every inch of the static line and webbing after a day of climbing. Climb Safe! Jake M. To answer berkov, Sub-equalizing different anchor points, then extending the anchor (always while maintaining redundancy) helps reduce the difficulty of equalizing, and the "tangle factor".
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tnjim
Mar 4, 2004, 1:26 PM
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what about a tied cordalette...should you untie those everytime too? Sorry to hijack your thread. :)
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j_ung
Mar 4, 2004, 2:10 PM
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It's not too big a stretch of the imagination to think that your knot could become pretty weak. Breaking weak? Probably not, but damn, G, how lazy are you? :)
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smallnutsandbigballs
Mar 4, 2004, 3:09 PM
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Jake's advice is good, but in the spirit of complete redunancy, I would suggest two other things: 1. After you tie each clove hitch, take about 2 ft. of slack, tie a figure-8 on a bight, and clip it into the webbing to back up the clove hitch 2. In the middle of the rope where you've tied your masterpoint knot, tie two figure-8's on a bight about a foot apart and clip them both into the master point. In the unlikely event that your rope should be damaged right in one of the knots, there is another independent knot to back it up. This only takes a few more seconds to do, only requires 2 more biners (or no extra gear if you retrace your figure-8 back ups..but that takes more time...), and makes a completely redundant anchor out of a single strand of rope.
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smallnutsandbigballs
Mar 4, 2004, 3:12 PM
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Damnit, I should read the rest of the thread before I reply to one person.....
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jakedatc
Mar 4, 2004, 4:39 PM
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Smallnut you're right.. back up the clove hitches with something and then you're cool.. the double figure8 thing sounds like a good idea too.. i wrote that from memory of seeing a setup once hehe(not bad eh?) So i haven't set one up myself.. mainly because i haven't bought myself some static rope yet.. though i probably should eventually Jake
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pjcozzi
Mar 4, 2004, 6:10 PM
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Thanks for all the excellent advice. One note though, to tie off each end of the static line, I’ve been using tension-less tree wraps where I wrap the end of the rope around the tree three or four times then tie a figure 8 follow thru around the part going to the center (like tying into a harness). This makes it really easy to equalize the anchor and puts little to no stress on the knots around the tree. Thanks again for the replies. Patrick
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hoserdude
Oct 3, 2005, 6:14 PM
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In reply to: A static rope with a tubular webbing sleeve is a great top rope setup. It is described in the book "Rock Climbing A Trailside Guide" by Don Mellor. I finished going through that book recently and noticed something regarding his setup. (Note: I'm a total nOOb, just thinking out loud. I'm far from setting up my own top ropes, just very curious.) There is redundancy built through out the system, except on the bight... If the bight should fail, there's nothing backing the biners up, except the rope/webbing, assuming both didn't shear. Is that a sufficient backup? Wouldn't it make more sense to have put two bights and clip the biners through each, so if one fails, there is another as a backup? Or is it faith enough to assume that if the webbing or rope should fail on the bight, the other will still hold the biners in? Is there an issue with having the double bight, such as possible cross-loading on failure?
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