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burz
Mar 3, 2004, 2:02 AM
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Registered: Aug 29, 2002
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We are driving up to WMWR from Houston Thursday evening. Looks like big rain Thursday but a beautiful weekend. What areas dry quickly out there? We are looking for trad in the 5.6 to 5.8 range and sport up to hard 5.10. Obviously the South facing walls will get the most sun, and I assume dry the fastest, but specific recommendatiuons would not hurt. We were hoping to hit the Narrows Friday as they will probably have less traffic then than on Saturday or Sunday. Also, if you have some "must do" routes in the range I gave above, fire away. Thanks for any help.
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jesusismyhomeboy
Mar 3, 2004, 2:14 AM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
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Howdy friend,
I too will be headed for the Wichita's this weekend, and the weather looks beautiful. For easy trad, definitely hit up the Narrows (Crazy Alice 5.8 zig zag crack is my fav), try Elk Slabs for some easy trad (up to three pitches) or Upper (Atomic Knee Drop) and Lower Mt. Scott (High Anxiety). Indeed, the Narrows will be crowded so I suggest going on Friday. Hope you have a blast, maybe I'll see you there. I will be at Doris on Friday and Sat. night,
Matt
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cliffmonkey2003
Mar 4, 2004, 4:36 AM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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The only sport climbs I've done at the Wichitas are Taco Time and Worm Hole. Worm Hole is at Echo Dome and is a really fun climb, until it starts to hail on you. I think its a 5.8. Anyway, have fun.
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gravitysucks
Mar 4, 2004, 10:56 AM
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Registered: Dec 11, 2002
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in my experience, every time the forecast says rain in Lawton, the Wichitas are usually only partly cloudy. windy, sure but it's like Middle Earth... it generates its own weather anomlies.
check out Echo Dome for sport. personally, I'd just skip to the good stuff...
[indigo]Upper/ Lower Mt. Scott[/indigo]
I second High Anxiety, 5.7, although it is a bit run out right off the deck. it's a great line though. be sure to check out Birthday Boy, 5.6 and Mr. Clean, 5.8 on Lower. Upper...Atomic Knee Drop, 5.6 and definitely hit Mild & Wild, 5.7 book/ 5.8 rc.com, it's one of my faves. TR Foolish Behavior, 5.9 if you're feeling ballsy and see what Duane Raleigh & Willis were talkin 'bout.
[indigo]The Narrows[/indigo]
at 5.8, the diagonal crack system on Crazy Alice will get your heart rate up a little. the Dihedral, 5.6 next to it is excellent (some says its the best of its grade in the tri-state area, so don't miss it), and Yellow Corner is the hardest 5.5 I've ever bagged.
[indigo]Leaning Tower (in Narrows)[/indigo]
Aerosmith, Captain Crunch & Second Hand are all good 5.7's Tight Rope goes at 5.6 and is decent. try LTD if you're up for a killer two pitch, 5.9R.
[indigo]Lichen Wall (in Narrows)[/indigo]
check out Ker Plunk, 5.6 if the water level is low enough to get to the base of it. otherwise, make sure your belayer can dog paddle.
[indigo]
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remember to check out the Meersburger!! they have climber-sized cobblers!! be safe.
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burz
Mar 4, 2004, 2:27 PM
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Registered: Aug 29, 2002
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Thanks for the good info. We will definitely try and hit some of the routes you mentioned.
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