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slablizard
Mar 1, 2004, 5:18 PM
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Hey guys/gals
I'm planning a week of camping with the family in Yosemite, place that I love, and I'm looking for one pitch sport climbs in Yosemite Valley and TMeadows.
I can lead trad but I don't have the gear, I'm with the kids so I cannot climb more than one pitch at a time, can't do long approaches either.
SO here's the question:
Apart the slabs at TMeadows ( those sweet looking RX friction routes) do you know of any "sport" (read bolted) (5.9 to 5.11d) areas in Yosemite before I spend 30 bucks for a climbing guide?
Also:
what's the best guidebookk for Yosemite and Toulomne Meadows?
I 'll buy both anyway ;)
Thanks!
And yes I could boulder but I don't have a pad and I generally prefer climbing if I can :)
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slablizard
Mar 1, 2004, 5:53 PM
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Take!
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slablizard
Mar 1, 2004, 11:58 PM
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Anybody? COme on guys! I know you know everything about Yosemite! I'm not going to send your projects! Promise! :lol:
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boltdude
Mar 2, 2004, 7:31 AM
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What time of year (down to the 2-week level)? How old are your kids, assuming you'll be bringing them to the crag? That latter question is key, because some crags are downright unsafe for kids, and others are perfectly safe but too long a hike for certain age kids.
You should also search the forum at supertopo.com, there's a lot in there and it's mostly Yosemite-centered.
The Supertopo books are great and concentrate on 5.9-10+ in the sport stuff, but I'm one of the authors so take that with a big grain of salt. The Reid (Valley) & Reid/Falkenstein (Tuol) books have a lot more sport routes, mostly in the 5.11 and up range.
Greg
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dirko
Mar 2, 2004, 7:44 AM
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OK, OK, try the base of the Lower Cathedral as referenced in Reid's select guide. A nice selection starting at 10d. Also perhaps North Apron of Middle Cathedral, if you get frustrated by clipping bolts too frequently. As found in the Reid guides but not the Mac guide. Also Glacier Point, but make it a point to do a check for what part of the cliff is currently subject to rockfall. Again, Reid's guide is your best bet.
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dirko
Mar 2, 2004, 7:47 AM
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P.S. As I'm sure you know... bolts a sport climb doth not make.
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slablizard
Mar 2, 2004, 8:18 AM
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Thanks guys!
Let's say from 5 to 11 of July, I'm looking now at the Yosemite online site, kids are 7 and almost 5 and they won't walk much thinking also that is going to be hot.
My goal is to find a place easy to reach and bolted, since I don't have my rack yet, so that I can climb as much as I can without turning a family vacation in a climbing trip. (not that I wouldn't)
The Reid is in Yosemite Free Climbs I assume, as well as the other "bolt protected" routes, right? I am so tempted to give a try at one of those slabs I saw at the Daff Dome in Toulomne, Are as scary as they look runout? I just did 2 easy cracks there when I went last year..
Maybe the Daff dome is the answer. Or there is a place as easy to reach and kid safe in Yosemite too?
UnfortunatelyI will have to choose bethween the Yosemite and the Toulomne M guides, can't buy both now.
lol..so again wich guide for this guy here?
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slablizard
Mar 2, 2004, 8:25 AM
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yep dirko
I'm looking forward to see how I will feel when (and if) I find myself up those slabs in Toulomne. I'm aware that the world "sport" in Yosemite means "runout from bolt to bolt". DId something similar in Verdon. What really scares me is more the X than the R factor.
In reply to: P.S. As I'm sure you know... bolts a sport climb doth not make. |
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grabngrip
Mar 2, 2004, 9:07 AM
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can you still camp IN yosemite? someone was telling me that you cant?
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mdude
Mar 2, 2004, 9:38 AM
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Sure you can camp in Yosemite and even in the Valley. Today and tomorrow.
There is a guide book specifically on sport climbing in Yosemite. It is small and not expensive.
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grabngrip
Mar 2, 2004, 4:48 PM
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good, then im going
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slablizard
Mar 2, 2004, 5:18 PM
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Darn.
The Yosemite online reservation site is down
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slablizard
Mar 3, 2004, 6:54 PM
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Ok, I have now my reservation for heaven (Yosemite). Crane Flat this time, (how is it?) last time I was at Hogdown Meadows, beautiful, quiet and peaceful.
Back to the guidebook, wich one should I pick? Yosemite Free climbs? Or TMeadows?
Point is :
Are there areas in Yosemite where I can sport climb ( sorry trad folks, I don't have a rack yet) as easy as at the Duff Dome for exaple? (WIfe, Kids, short approach, kids friendly terrain at the base of the routes)
I know it's a dumb question, but I just like talking about this stuff anyway :)
In reply to: What time of year (down to the 2-week level)? How old are your kids, assuming you'll be bringing them to the crag? That latter question is key, because some crags are downright unsafe for kids, and others are perfectly safe but too long a hike for certain age kids. You should also search the forum at supertopo.com, there's a lot in there and it's mostly Yosemite-centered. The Supertopo books are great and concentrate on 5.9-10+ in the sport stuff, but I'm one of the authors so take that with a big grain of salt. The Reid (Valley) & Reid/Falkenstein (Tuol) books have a lot more sport routes, mostly in the 5.11 and up range. Greg |
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iamthewallress
Mar 3, 2004, 7:07 PM
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In reply to: yep dirko I'm looking forward to see how I will feel when (and if) I find myself up those slabs in Toulomne. I'm aware that the world "sport" in Yosemite means "runout from bolt to bolt". DId something similar in Verdon. What really scares me is more the X than the R factor. In reply to: P.S. As I'm sure you know... bolts a sport climb doth not make.
Yeah...If you've sent a 5.9 sport climb a time or two, I'd be really, really, really leery of getting on a 5.9 on the Middle Cathedral Apron. You've got the X factor, you've got the R factor, but you might be surprised if you find any climbing that feels like 5.9.
If you've got your kids with you and don't have gear, I'd consider buying the Supertopo or the Yosemite/Tuolumne Top Ropes guides. You may also want to invest in a set of nuts and maybe a couple of cams in case some of the TR's don't have natural things to sling or bolts.
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slablizard
Mar 3, 2004, 7:27 PM
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ok, buy gear, I like that!
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phylp
Mar 7, 2004, 3:51 AM
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There are many sport climbs in the valley and the Meadows. I will only mention ones that are easy to get to with kids the age you have stated, in the grad range you have specified. And these are true SPORT climbs. Walk times are if you are walking alone, multiply for the kid factor.
VALLEY INFO:
It will be very hot. You are likely to spend more time in the meadows. I'd recommend just getting the Falkenstein "Sport Climbs" guidebook if it's still available. Much cheaper than Yosemite select or the complete valley guidebook.
Church Bowl Area - 30 second walk from the shuttle stop, safe for the kids. you might get lucky with dappled shade. there's a 10.a (pole position) and an 11.a/b (Energizer)
Chapel Wall area - about 5 minutes from the shuttle stop, nice cool setting (north facing). 4-5 climbs in the 11.c/d range
Pat & Jack Pinnacle - about 5' walk from car pullout. Also hot (south facing) 2 X 10.b, and 1 X 10.d (harder ones there also)
I'd stay away from Glacier Point apron with the kids.
Middle catherdral apron is way too hard of a walk.
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cadaverchris
Mar 7, 2004, 3:57 AM
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Whats the lake north of toulume meadows?
When i was there, i heard people telling about lots of sport climbing around that lake- i'm surprised no one has mentioned it yet.
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couloir
Mar 7, 2004, 4:18 AM
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There's tons of sport in the valley with short approaches and are safe for the kids....
Chapel Wall
Church Bowl
Pat And Jack
...and much more
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phylp
Mar 7, 2004, 4:18 AM
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Part II, The Meadows Buy the guidebook. There are lot's of sport routes, but a lot of them have relatively long approaches for kids, or the setting would be dangerous for them.
Shortest walk is to Low Profile Dome - 5' from car pullout
Golfer's route 5.7
Darth Vaders and Shithooks, 10.b
Pywiack Dome - a bit harder approach, but easier and shorter than the approach to the south flank of Daff. There is a beautiful 11.c sport route. It's not in my book but I think it was to the left of the Fort Knox/golden bars area, and right of soft white underbelly.
south flank of daff. 15' approach
The "easiest" completely bolted route IMHO is Hogwash 10.c. It's almost sportbolted and the polish isn't that bad. The top is a little run but the holds get bigger and the angle eases up. It's a higher rating than fingertips, the 10.a on the left, but fingertips is much more run out and has some serious polish. only you can say if they are scary. They get done all the time.
east cottage dome is a great place for a day of sport climbing. There are a bunch of reasonable bolted routes there. but the setting might be really freaky with the kids. sloping granite leading to cliffs!
Your best bet for a more climbing in a safe setting is the medlicott area near shipoopi and to the left. The approach might be kind of long for the kids (it takes me 25'), but once you are there, there are lot's of routes (all in the book) and a very safe setting in the trees for the kids. You won't be able to get to the "upper tier" , but the ground level climbs are nice. Two of my favorites: get into the grrove, 11.a and Lead doll, 11.d
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slablizard
Mar 8, 2004, 6:26 PM
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Great!
Exactly the kind of info I was looking for! Some nice routes to climb while the kids are napping (hopefully) in the shade.
Thenks a lot guys!
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vincent
Mar 8, 2004, 6:55 PM
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hey slablizard why not live up to your name and check out swan slabs. lots of easy top roping. the crowds and sun might not be in your favor though...
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slablizard
Mar 8, 2004, 8:55 PM
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In reply to: hey slablizard why not live up to your name and check out swan slabs. lots of easy top roping. the crowds and sun might not be in your favor though...
Thanks Vincent, but I like to lead whenever I climb. Nothing better than onsighting.
Unless I the X factor is there I like to get scared a bit when I climb.
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