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the_antoon
Mar 7, 2004, 6:05 PM
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I'm considering buying either the mad rock hooker or loco shoes. I have heard a lot of good things about them....expecially when a lot of people from my gym were buying them. However, I have been hearing more and more about how they are cheap and will blow out in 6 months. I was just wonder if those of you who have these shoes could drop some advice my way. Also, which is the better shoe?
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sonysux
Mar 7, 2004, 6:16 PM
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I don't know if it is too late to stop you (cosidering your post is from dec.) but do not buy mad rock. My climbing partner had a pair and they developed a hole in the fabric in less than 7 or 8 months. He was just starting out, so he wasn't climbing too hard in them (and it was mostly gym.) I have also heard about people who have bought mad rocks and gone through them in ONE WEEKEND!!
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gear_junkie
Mar 7, 2004, 6:25 PM
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Alright, Lets say I buy a pair of Mad Rock Mugens for $79 and I have to resole them at 6 months for $50 with C4 Stealth rubber. I now have spent $129 total. Or I can go out and buy a Anasazi Velcro for $139 and have to resole after 8 Months @ $50 for a $189 total.
mmmm...... I wonder what the better deal is?
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gdonde
Mar 7, 2004, 6:46 PM
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Shoes never feel the same after they have been resoled, mine stretched and and are now to loose on me
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bmoscon
Mar 7, 2004, 7:10 PM
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one of my friends wears madrocks and he says that the "dual rubber" thing they have makes them prone to wearing quickly and sometimes the rubber will separate.
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alvchen
Mar 7, 2004, 8:39 PM
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The first generation Madrock models with the dual-density rubber will wear out fairly quick, but the ones released much more recently have the harder rubber extended out further towards the ball of your foot so wear and tear will be delayed.
I have two holes the size of quarters in my Madrocks that I got in august, but with a little bit of tape, they're just as good.
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autonome
Mar 7, 2004, 9:13 PM
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Just got a pair of Locos.
They run real small. I had to get a half size larger than my normal rock shoe size. Also, the toe is very turned down (like Boreal Stinger).
And get this: they come w/ extra soles. Although cool, it's pretty telling about the expected lifespan of the rubber :?
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jwiggins
Mar 7, 2004, 9:47 PM
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I have resoled my La Sportiva Katanas 4 times since last February. Without resoles these would have lasted only 5 months.
I have yet to find a shoe that has the perfect balance between performance and durability. Maybe the new generation of Boreals? I just bought some spider's but it is too early to tell.
I have even had 5.10 shoes that have suffered from infant mortality (<4 mo on anasazi!). Mad Rock at least has the performance or so I have heard.
Some resolers will do a quarter sole for ~$20 if they don't have to do a rand repair. If Mad Rocks only last 6 months then resole them and make them go for another 6. That is a full year for less than you pay for a top end high perforance shoe!!
At the end of the day if the shoe fits wear it. If it is cheap and performs well buy 2 or resole!
Good luck. If you hear of that magic super performer that lasts more than a year let me know! jwiggins@ussynthetic.com
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maculated
Mar 7, 2004, 9:51 PM
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If these are your first pair of shoes, get them as cheap as you can. Once you get good footwork, you can get higher end shoes that will last. I've not had to replace my shoes and I've been climbing for 3 years in them. Resoled about once a year.
Depends on rock and all of that, though.
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autonome
Mar 7, 2004, 10:00 PM
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I won't buy 5-10 any more b/c of poor quality:
My wife had to return 2 pairs of Spires b/c they were coming apart at the seams!
Third try was Mad Rock Hookers, which lasted almost a year for her w/o needing a resole. And the shoes are still solid.
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the_antoon
Mar 7, 2004, 10:04 PM
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i havn't really found anything that is the best of both worlds either...so far my favorite shoes have been my pair of 5.10s. They have lasted a long time and have served me well...but as for performance, they have stretched out some and have vertually no edge anymore, not to mention a couple holes. So to say the least, they are well broken in and have a few miles. And i don't plan on using only my new pair (whatever they may be). Mostly for harder routes and indoor. With this in mind....keep rollen with the posts...I really appreciate the help.
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powrslave
Mar 7, 2004, 10:06 PM
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There is noway the Anasazi's last longer than Mad Rock anythings. Noway.
I have been climbing 2 - 3 times a week for 11 months on my Mad Rock Sharks and just now they are beginning to turn to crap. JUST NOW!
Next pair is either a pair of Mad Rock Locos or the basic Flashes without the dual density rubber (haven't decided yet though).
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the_antoon
Mar 7, 2004, 10:10 PM
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well what do you think about the different models, I have never had anything but laceups so i'm not sure which would be better hooker or loco. I like the shape of the Loco, but it isn't a lace up. :cry:
That is assuming that i do decide to get them.
It just seems like a lot of people blow them out real quick but for some they last just as long as anything else (with the same amount of wear). Sloppy footwork???
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1080climber
Mar 7, 2004, 10:23 PM
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I just replaced my Mad Rock Flashes cause thay are tottally gone at the toe. 8 months. They streched heaps aswell. The only thing I liked about them was the heel.
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coldclimb
Mar 8, 2004, 3:55 AM
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I've had the hooker zips since the week they were released, and so far I have slightly rounded the edges. Nothing more. Makes me wonder what everybody else is complaining about. My Boreal Aces wore out just about the same. I haven't had any problems with the mad rocks yet.
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bouldering-bumm
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Mar 8, 2004, 3:59 AM
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nO WAY! do not buy mad rocks...If you are looking for shoes that last a long time, get the Montra S from La Sportiva
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bouldrinsoill
Mar 8, 2004, 4:05 AM
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In reply to: I've had the hooker zips since the week they were released, and so far I have slightly rounded the edges. Nothing more. Makes me wonder what everybody else is complaining about. My Boreal Aces wore out just about the same. I haven't had any problems with the mad rocks yet.
I think maybe you post on this site more than you actually climb.
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maika
Mar 8, 2004, 4:57 AM
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My first pair of shoes was the Phoenix, by MadRock, and they alsted about 6 1/2 months...I can still wear them, however, but they're kinda junky now. They would be good to start with, however, because the heel is awesome! From what I've heard, the Flash is probably the best bet if you're going for cheap and reliable, but they won't last too long...
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climbsomething
Mar 8, 2004, 5:03 AM
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Six months, really, isn't that bad before needing a resole, assuming you climb a lot. Pardon my spray, but I climb 4x a week, inside and out on varying types of rock, and 6 months feels about average for noticing rand or sole wear. But then, I am not averse to going through climbing shoes like bathroom dixie cups...
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traddad
Mar 8, 2004, 1:46 PM
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Wear out in six months? What's your secret to longevity? MadRock, FiveTen, Sportiva.....I usually get my shoes resoled 3 times a year when I'm climbing hard. Price of doing business. I'm not a fan of MadRock's dual density system, but I like their shoes. I'd LOVE to try a pair of Evolves, buy I have to try a pair on first. Fit is more important to me than even quality so I won't shell out money prior to trying a pair on.
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jules
Mar 8, 2004, 2:10 PM
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My mugens have been through a year of regular use and the rubber is just starting to get real worn down.
awesome shoes.
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dredsovrn
Mar 8, 2004, 2:28 PM
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6 months really isn't accurate. More like 3-4 if you are climbng regularly. I heard a guy post that he killed a pair over a long weekend crack climbing. Nothing wrong with the shoes, but the soft rubber doesn't last long. I wore out my pair of Mugens in about 4 months. Had them resoled and they are fine.
You can buy them know, climb for a while, resole and still be at about the price of competitive shoes. I recommend Evolv as my favorite shoe so far. If you are climbing indoor mostly, get a pair of their rage shoes and you can slip then off between routes. Nothing wrong with the Rocks, just know you will need to resole shortly.
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coldclimb
Mar 8, 2004, 4:31 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I've had the hooker zips since the week they were released, and so far I have slightly rounded the edges. Nothing more. Makes me wonder what everybody else is complaining about. My Boreal Aces wore out just about the same. I haven't had any problems with the mad rocks yet. I think maybe you post on this site more than you actually climb.
Climbing at the very least once every week. At most in the last year, ten days straight. But yes, I do manage to get on here every day. Aren't you at home more than you are out climbing?
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crazyfingers
Aug 6, 2004, 7:11 PM
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My pair of flashes lasted about 4 months and I have a couple holes in the rand at the toe on both feet. Frankly, my foot work could be better, but I wasn't impressed by the longevity of the shoe. I climb 2-4 days a week indoors and out (no spray intended). The performance on the other hand has been excellent. Great feel and reasonable comfort, sweet all around shoe. We'll have to see how they do after a resole. Thinking about getting some katanas...
My .02,
KT
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tchamber
Aug 6, 2004, 7:52 PM
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I've got 4-5 months on my madrocks (flashes) right now. On average I'm climbing 3 times a week, 90% outdoor. The shoes have performed FABULOUSLY on both sport climbs and thin face slab. I'm just getting close to the point where I need to start thinking about having them resoled, but I'll definitely keep them around. They're certainly a great deal for the price (and fit me a whole lot better than anasazi's or moccasyms).
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