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Black Peeler (any Utahens out there)
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timpanogos


Mar 8, 2004, 8:19 AM
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Black Peeler (any Utahens out there)
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The sun is starting to come out, things are melting! Spent the afternoon in Rock Canyon practicing hooking yesterday – wonderful day.

As things continue to melt, I would like to try some of the aid routes in LCC – can anyone give me some beta on the following route (references are from the “Rock Climbing Utah’s Wasatch Range” guide book ):

51. Riveting A1 – what shape is the rivet ladder in? Are all belay stations in 3/8” bolts?
To
50. Peeler Direct II 5.7 A2 ** - book says “all clean please” but then says “dicey bashie and bolt moves” Does one want to take a hammer and heads? Can you rap from the top of this section with a single rope?
To
48. Black Peeler III 5.10d A3 – book says “it CAN be done clean” Any experience here? Does it have 5.10d required or is this the free rating? – Looks like a fairly serious traversal – if soloing, will the broken area cause rap/jug back to lower anchor problems for cleaning?

Anyone interested in working on some of the aid routes in LCC with me as things warm up?

Chad


brianinslc


Mar 8, 2004, 8:58 AM
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In reply to:
As things continue to melt, I would like to try some of the aid routes in LCC – can anyone give me some beta on the following route (references are from the “Rock Climbing Utah’s Wasatch Range” guide book ):

51. Riveting A1 – what shape is the rivet ladder in? Are all belay stations in 3/8” bolts?
To
50. Peeler Direct II 5.7 A2 ** - book says “all clean please” but then says “dicey bashie and bolt moves” Does one want to take a hammer and heads? Can you rap from the top of this section with a single rope?

Not sure what the item "51" is...are you referring to the variation that comes in directly below the right rising ramp (free climb to the first anchor on Black Peeler Direct)? If so, then, I seem to recall the rivets are bolts and maybe two studs and is in fine shape (easy solo). You need gear too, btw.

On the Peeler Direct, there used to be two fixed bashies. I think they've been replaced (really really scary in '85). You do a bashie move, to three bolts in a row, then a bashie, to get to the crack. Please unclip the bashies when you pass them so if you fall, they won't rip out (ha ha). I think the bolts have been replaced on the route as well.

There ain't much for heads. If the bashies are gone, then, you probably need another bashie to replace. Tryin' a head might screw up the placement(s). If you haven't done much of that kind of thing, I'd leave it.

Careful on the clean aid. That crack is thin.

I seem to recall needin' two ropes to get off, but, its been awhile. Hopefully someone else will chime in (bsmoot?).

Good luck.

Brian in SLC


grayhghost


Mar 8, 2004, 9:18 AM
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Black Peeler direct is one of the best routes in LCC. The two stars that the book gives it do not do it justice. The whole route goes clean, do not bring a hammer. There is only one bashie at the entrance to the thin crack on pitch one and there is a bomber bolt 4 feet below that. All the bolts are super-solid and the rivet ladder on pitch one is also solid. If you want to be a constructive part of the climbing community you can bring your drill and put in two rappel bolts at the top of pitch two. It is a very spicy rappell which requires two ropes. It would be a tricky solo due to the traverse at the top of pitch two. get after it!


timpanogos


Mar 8, 2004, 10:38 AM
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Brian,

Yea, 51 is the variation that leads right to the bottom belay for Black Peeler Direct (numbers are the route numbers from the guide book) – I wasn’t sure if the beginning of Black Peeler (48 ) to the PP anchor then the ramp to “The Serpent III 5.12 A2**” (49 ) then on up to the belay for Direct (50 ) was .10 mandatory or if you can aid the first pitch and ramp (or ramp is very easy)?

The 5.9 1st pitch ramp on Moonlight scared the crap out of me on solo.

The guide book shows the 5.10d section (2nd pitch) of Black Peeler (48 ) running a very traversing right facing (down facing) crack – is this mandatory 5.10d or can you aid this section? This is why I was looking at bypassing via the ladder (51 ) and the Direct route (50 ) then continuing on the 3rd pitch of Black Peeler (48 ) and skipping the 4th short .10 pitch and rapping from the 4th pitches bottom belay anchor back on down (likely 2 ropes from here).

I guess I don’t know what “bashies” are – I assumed they where heads – what is a bashie?

Also, you are right about my inexperience with heads/pins/bolts (and obviously bashies) can you suggest a granite choss pile that would be good to practice at without causing damage to bouldering and/or routes? I assume a good head area (shallow seams?), might be different than a chossy crack area. Something that could be top ropped or stay a few feet off the ground would be nice.

Brendan

Thanks for the information! Great sketchy anchor on the traversing pitch! If I do solo this, will I have rope problems rapping low and jugging back into the lower anchor from this sketchy one? Are there trees/brush/features on the “broken face” that will cause grief? I have a 60 meter 8mil static line I would likely take for the job.

I do have a hand drill (manual hammer kind) with some bolts/hangers, I need to practice somewhere – ask/find more info on bolting, and yea, I would gladly redo the anchor.

Chad

edit - ended up with smiley faces from the (48 )


grayhghost


Mar 8, 2004, 2:02 PM
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I am not sure how the book lays out the pitches but we did Black Peeler Direct like this. . .
climb to the base of the bolt/rivet ladder via poorly protected 5.0 ramp walking (use climbing shoes), start up mixed bomber bolts/good rivets ladder and get to the belay where the regular Black Peeler comes in from the left. Clip the belay bolts and continue up more bolts to the thin crack in the face, aid up it (C1) till you come to another belay on a sloping ledge. Good belay bolts to haul, jug, rap off of. Move right after this belay (doing more 5.0 r/x) on the sloping ramp and gain the parallel thin cracks, aid up the thin cracks untill they move right. Aid right and gain a 50ft long 5ft wide ramp that leads right to a poor nut and piton belay. We rapped from here because we were in our aid shoes and did not want to do the last bit of poorly protected, sandy, 5.10 free climbing to the top. It was a very clean two rope rappel but the anchor was questionable. Hope this clears things up a little.


brianinslc


Mar 8, 2004, 2:36 PM
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In reply to:
Yea, 51 is the variation that leads right to the bottom belay for Black Peeler Direct (numbers are the route numbers from the guide book) – I wasn’t sure if the beginning of Black Peeler (48 ) to the PP anchor then the ramp to “The Serpent III 5.12 A2**” (49 ) then on up to the belay for Direct (50 ) was .10 mandatory or if you can aid the first pitch and ramp (or ramp is very easy)?

I recall the climb to the ramp on the original Peeler Direct being around 5.9ish and a bit of free climbing. The newer direct direct variation looks like a lot simpler way to get to the first anchor on the Peeler Direct (the straight up newer stud/bolt variation).

In reply to:
I guess I don’t know what “bashies” are – I assumed they where heads – what is a bashie?

Blob of aluminum on a cable. A bit different than a head. Coonyard used to make them. Aka "mashies", I think. They're not swaged, but, look like they are aluminum blobs that are forged (?) onto a smaller cable. Smooth block-ish lookin' things. I think they mold into shallow, more open seams better than a copper or aluma-head.

In reply to:
Also, you are right about my inexperience with heads/pins/bolts (and obviously bashies) can you suggest a granite choss pile that would be good to practice at without causing damage to bouldering and/or routes? I assume a good head area (shallow seams?), might be different than a chossy crack area. Something that could be top ropped or stay a few feet off the ground would be nice.

I'd almost suggest some of the quarry cuts below the gate. Seems that them bouldering types have so many of their problems on every available square inch of climbable granite in the canyon. You might hike up one of the chossy gullies (Maybird Coulior but wait for this warm wet avy cycle to pass!) and find a short cliff section to practise on.

In reply to:
I do have a hand drill (manual hammer kind) with some bolts/hangers, I need to practice somewhere – ask/find more info on bolting, and yea, I would gladly redo the anchor.

You might ask around before adding a bolt or bolts to an anchor in LCC. This area has seen a bunch of action over the years and if the anchors aren't where they're supposed to be by now, there might be good reason. You might chat up a couple of the more seasoned vets first. IME fellers fer instance. "bsmoot" here too. Etc etc.

Brian in SLC


timpanogos


Mar 8, 2004, 3:32 PM
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Thanks guys - good info.

I'll stop by IME - and see what they say/know about this anchor.

I'll also post to the bouldering group and see about the quarry area below gate buttress / green adjective area I was thinking about practicing pasting/bolting in the talus left from the church building deal. Otherwise, as you suggested, I'll find an obscure outcroping, or even the talus field on the way to pentipitch might be good - I know I've been lost, both high and low in the canyon looking for pentipitch before - lots of choss in that area, but on the wrong side of the canyon for another month or so.

Thanks again.

Chad

update,
Scott from IME had no information, I'll check back with Merle and Andy to see if they have input on the anchor.


bsmoot


Mar 8, 2004, 10:47 PM
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Chad,

You can rap from the top of the 2nd pitch with one 60 meter rope. The original first pitch is kinda cool...the slabs feels like 5.7 or 5.8 if you have sticky rubber shoes on. Pitch 2 (the Peeler Direct) I thought was C3...about the same as a Yosemite C3. Originally, (1976) we nailed thin pins into where the bashies now are. Don't recommend the original 2nd pitch...the traverse had some rotten rock when I aided it. The 5.10d was when it was later freed by Jim Donini.

I thought the 3rd pitch aid was at least C2...bring sliders. The Belay at the end of the 3rd could use a bolt. keep in mind that there were no bolts at the top of pitches 2 & 3 in the early days...be creative. I've always aided the last pitch ( 4th) there is no manditory 5.10...more like 5.8+ . cam hooks, offset nuts, offset aliens & TCU's all come in handy although early clean ascents just used nuts. This is an excellent climb! enjoy.


timpanogos


Mar 9, 2004, 10:11 AM
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Brian,

Thanks for the input. I'm heading up for lunch to check out the snow levels. Might just have to "project" this area for awhile - looks like a Yosemite A3 school room! Traverses, pendulums, slab, cracks, seams etc.

Brian said:
In reply to:
I thought the 3rd pitch aid was at least C2...bring sliders.

What are "sliders"? I'm not familar with this term?


Chad


timpanogos


Mar 9, 2004, 1:32 PM
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Maybe it was a good thing I took a long lunch and went up to check out Black Peeler. I ran into a young man heading up gate buttress area to do some free roped soloing – he showed me his self belay device …… it was a mini-traxion! :shock:

Anyway, after post-holing to my knees up the approach (definitely need gators and ski pants for the approach – I’m soaking wet sitting here in my Levis) – I got a great view of the Peller areas south east face. With my 50 power binoculars from across the gulley at about the level of the anchor at the bottom of peeler direct, I got a great view of the area.

That peeler direct crack is awesome! Come-on Saturday – I’m on that beauty. It looked way thin at the bottom, but looked to widen just a bit as it went up – straight plumb-bob style up! Awesome looking crack. The first pitch of black peeler did look like a must do – the ramp appeared to be very low angle with a crack at the cliff edge that looked like it would take some gear. The start looked fun.

What in the world is that anchor at the top of Peeler Direct? It looked like the mother-of-all chicken heads with a chain wrapped around it!

It looked real reachy to get from this funky anchor back into the next pitches crack. The last half of the 3rd pitches traversal has in a heavy rains worth of water flowing down it (from the overhanging rim). The rest of the wall was dry. This woundering route up to and including the traversal looked interesting and challenging. I could not make out the anchor at the top of 3, but assume it was in the water.

I can’t wait to get on this wall!

I also checked out what I assume is “Batman” a bit higher up the canyon – dang, got to get on that one also! Could not see Tin Man and Skin man very well from my vantage point across from Black Peeler.

Appears to be enough boulders in the gulley to possible practice some heading right there. This whole area looks incredible!

Chad


bsmoot


Mar 9, 2004, 7:53 PM
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A slider is the same as ball nut.


timpanogos


Mar 9, 2004, 7:59 PM
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cool, I just bought the 3 smallest ones from a recent sell here on rc.com - have yet to try them.

Looks like they might see some use come Saturday.

And as for the bottom of 4th pitch anchor - the final push there did look very short and aidable, in fact if soloing, might as well push to the top, as rope drag should not matter - but then again, things very well may look much different once up there??

Thanks
Chad


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