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Garden of the gods
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snitwongse_j


Apr 2, 2002, 2:32 AM
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Garden of the gods
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Has anybody climbed G. of the gods in Co? any idea on the protection i will need?


old_school


Apr 2, 2002, 3:53 AM
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I haven't, but I have some relatives there, and I seem to remember him owning alot of cams (I was young at the time and thought the cams were toys). This probably doesn't help, but that's all I remember.


andy_lemon


Apr 2, 2002, 4:27 AM
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I just talked to a guy about GoG's this weekend... he said the rock is soft and the pro can be scary!


madscientist


Apr 2, 2002, 4:52 AM
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The rock is really soft, so most people like to use passive protection whenever they can. There are many routes that are protected with drilled baby angles. Bring nuts and hex's if you have them. Bring a set of cams also, but you should not need more than one set.


atg200


Apr 2, 2002, 4:50 PM
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madscientist - have you ever climbed on soft sandstone before? nuts and hexes suck in soft sandstone, and cams are much better.

most of the rock in the garden is actually pretty good - it ain't eldo, but it looks like granite compared to most of the colorado plateau rock(except wingate of course). some of the fountain formation rock is truly bad however - be wary on the three graces, pigeon spire, and anywhere off the beaten path. the rock is mostly excellent on the finger face, drug wall, and the popular tower routes.

drilled angles are usually quite good, but don't hesitate to use a screamer or back off if they are sketchy(i could wiggle the angle protecting the top of potholes with my fingers when i did it-scary).


Partner rrrADAM


Apr 2, 2002, 5:05 PM
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There are numerous Routes listed in the DBase for GOG... Good idea to check there first, as it lists all the pro needed for each Route.



~Adam


Partner polarwid


Apr 2, 2002, 5:09 PM
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Also be aware that most of the first pieces of pro are 10 to 20 feet off the deck. I have fallen many times on the angles there and have had only one pull on me. Most of the routes there are face routes with pro 10 to 20 feet apart. One can find natural placements but you must be creative. Little potholes takes tricams well if you sling them with a long runner, but cracks are few and far between on a lot of routes. Also a lot of routes are less than vertical so most falls are slowed somewhat by your body sliding down the rock. PAINFUL---sandpaper!
Do not trust any pieces behind flakes, most will pull off if weighted outwards. But the Garden is one of the great climbing areas in the state, just takes some getting used to. REMEMBER---SOFT TOUCH AND PULL DOWN, NOT OUT!


wyoclimber


Apr 2, 2002, 11:30 PM
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Heya!

I am planning a climbing trip based out of Fort Collins on the weekend of APR 20th. I have been thinking of GoG as one of the destinations. Any body up for a tour? any other recommended climbing areas in an easy 1-2 hour drive from FoCo?

Thanks
b


atg200


Apr 2, 2002, 11:46 PM
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Too easy. Lumpy Ridge, Eldo, Flatirons, South Platte, Greyrock, Carter Lake....


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