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Stuck in a 5.9 world!
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abock33


Mar 11, 2004, 7:07 AM
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Stuck in a 5.9 world!
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I am stuck in the 5.9 climbing world... To start off I've been climbing off and on for the last 5 years. 6 months ago I really got back into it. I started going to the gym once and sometimes twice a week. I can onsight every 5.9 I come across, and it's getting really boring. I tried climbing the 5.10's and have only made a few sucsessfull attempts. I can't climb anything past 5.9! I've increased my training on the rock rings. I keep trying ths 10's and I don'e see any improvment. What do you guys recommend that I try.

Andrew.


esoteric1


Mar 11, 2004, 7:14 AM
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climb more


andy_reagan


Mar 11, 2004, 7:17 AM
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try marijuana.


adamwvt


Mar 11, 2004, 7:19 AM
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Re: Stuck in a 5.9 world! [In reply to]
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If you want to feel burlry climbing a 5.9, ditch the sport draws, and grab a trad rack. Fuck the gym.


Partner xcel360


Mar 11, 2004, 7:22 AM
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A lot of people seem to get stuck on the 5.9 plataeu - at least us "average" people. The solution to your problem is simple, climb harder. Emphasize on good technique. A climbing instructor at my old gym even suggested to me to hop on some of the easier routes there and over-emphasize on technique, making drastic hip movements and what not. Other than that, just climb more. And keep climbing. Eventually you'll get on some of the .10's and you'll be like wow, I can climb this.

Also, try to get outside to climb more. That really helps, and start leading climbs too, you'll find that might help.

Edited to say that I didn't see you lived in Kentucky. Ditch the gym and climb at the red!!!


andy_reagan


Mar 11, 2004, 7:25 AM
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In reply to:
If you want to feel burlry climbing a 5.9, ditch the sport draws, and grab a trad rack. f--- the gym.

Do you really think its responsible to advise someone to do something as reckless and endangering as traditional climbing?


thegodfather


Mar 11, 2004, 7:39 AM
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Do you really think its responsible to advise someone to do something as reckless and endangering as traditional climbing?

......are you serious?


crazygirl


Mar 11, 2004, 7:42 AM
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climb 3 days a week instead of 2


travelin_light


Mar 11, 2004, 7:53 AM
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haha, andy_reagan says :



In reply to:
try marijuana


then he says:

In reply to:

Do you really think its responsible to advise someone to do something as reckless and endangering as traditional climbing?

haha, there you have it, smoke alot of pot and you will be able to climb 5.10, but whatever you do don't try any trad climbing that may do you in for good. hahahaha


escale


Mar 11, 2004, 7:55 AM
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Yes, I agree with everyone, climb more.
I was stuck in the .9 area and this worked for me:
I bouldered on real rocks more and adding practice on a campus board in my training mix.

Also, I would go to sport areas and boulder the start of all the .10 routes getting to the first bolt, then hanging on as long as I could and down climbing.
I would sometime work a bouldering problem so much people thought I was obsessive. I will also do this on .11 or .12 routes just making one move and also just hanging on as long as I could.

Another game I play when I go bouldering alone is to do these long traverses counting my moves. After I get all four appendages on the wall, I begin climbing up counting my moves and then traverse four moves, then downclimb and traverse then up, etc. Every time you move a hand or a foot from itís original point, that is a move. I feel that after making 100 moves I achieved a goal. This builds endurance and forces you to find rest spots. Once you fall or jump off the count ends.

So, I start another problem or redo the same problem with crossovers, hand or foot matches or high steps mixed in. Or I would do everything with just two fingers. or practice holding myself with monos, even if I was on a mother jug, or find only the crimpers and thin edges. Get creative!

Now, I only go into the gym to meet and recruit new people who are interested in trad climbing.

---Escale


swissy131


Mar 11, 2004, 7:58 AM
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hi,

if you really want to move beyond the realm of F9 you've gotta have good foot work. also Leave the gym behind. Try boldering a bit. definatly lead. either sport or trad. actually if you've never lead before start off leading a few sport F8's. when you feel comfortable with leading start increasing the grade. most of all climb climb climb.

-swissy


jtme


Mar 11, 2004, 8:02 AM
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..........and what's wrong with climbing 5.9???? too much emphasis is put on numbers. Just have fun climbing


abock33


Mar 11, 2004, 8:05 AM
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Thanks.. All of these sound like great things to try (Except for the weed one, he might need to lay off his bag for a bit).

I've been wanting to try Trad. or atleast TR someone's Trad route.

Keep the suggestions comming.


abock33


Mar 11, 2004, 8:09 AM
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Nothings Wrong with the 5.9's I just want to challenge my self and besides "There's only so many green M&M's a man can eat before he goes F_ _ K I want a red one!"


adamwvt


Mar 11, 2004, 8:14 AM
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In reply to:
..........and what's wrong with climbing 5.9???? too much emphasis is put on numbers. Just have fun climbing

Right on! I want to be leading 5.6 trad when I am 60. That is my goal.


qacwac


Mar 11, 2004, 8:48 AM
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Boulder.

I was about a 5.10 climber with one 11a lead, and then I started almost exclusively bouldering. I've been sport climbing once and I almost flashed a 12c (probably more like 12a or b though). 10's feel pretty easy now.

There could be other things that are holding you back. If you overweight then it's going to be harder for you to progress then normally.


jv


Mar 11, 2004, 8:52 AM
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What he^ said.

JV


boss


Mar 11, 2004, 8:53 AM
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In reply to:
if you really want to move beyond the realm of F9 you've gotta have good foot work.

I definitely agree with this. Footwork and proper balance start to take precident over strength as you move up through the numbers. Don't get me wrong, you still have to be strong, but without good foot work, you needlessly fatigue your arms trying to muscle up the climbs. So with that said, climb lots, and emphasize your technique and foot work!


abalch


Mar 11, 2004, 8:59 AM
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Try to find someone who can climb harder than you. Watch everything they do, and have them ropegun you on routes above your limit. Once you get a route dialed in on toperope, lead it. Persistence is the key.


powpierre


Mar 11, 2004, 8:59 AM
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Try climbing in a different gym and see the difference. Your route setter's style may not fit you well. Doing some 10's somewhere else may help you break through the barrier. Same is true of outside climbing all of us are better at certain styles/ techniques than others and hence some climbs will fit better than others.


johnfromohio


Mar 11, 2004, 9:01 AM
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as was said above

boulder

i went from not being to work on a 5.10 in a gym, i basically can onsight them in a gym

outside i dont know yet because i live on ohio, but prolly should be able to work 11's depending on the nature of the climb.


travelin_light


Mar 11, 2004, 9:03 AM
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I have found that downclimbing everything seems to help a bit. if you focus on keeping good technique while doing this you can develope a great skill to have, plus you will get more bang for your buck. A good place to do this is in the gym on easy boulder problems and on some sport routes.


hroldan


Mar 11, 2004, 9:05 AM
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In reply to:
I've been climbing off and on for the last 5 years. 6 months ago I really got back into it. I started going to the gym once and sometimes twice a week

ok, climbing should be fun so don't get too mad about numbers BUT, for all of us who love climbing, we always want to have fun and climb more hard stuff right?

well, some folks just climb and they get to the high grades really fast, but some others like me, need to train and maintain discipline or you lose what you gained.

See my point? climbing on and off will not take you to high grades, you have to start reading, watching others and taking it more seriuosly, with discipline.

Is like having a girlfriend in a way, dating here on and off, or once or twice a week is not enough. or is it? you have to put more time and effort in what you want. I want to get to the high grades but work makes it hard, but i'm having fun!


wlderdude


Mar 11, 2004, 9:13 AM
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Most of the rock gyms I have been to focus too much on dynos.

You may find your style is more fitted for trad routes. I have found that my favorite climbing is crack climbing. I can't seem to do as well with crimpy, overhung routes simply because I don't want to as bad.

Getting outside on a variety of climbs and really discovering what kinds of 5.10's you WANT to do will make a huge difference in breaking into this silly 5.10 thing.


drkayak


Mar 11, 2004, 9:16 AM
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I spent 2-3 years stuck at 5.9. I was climbing trad and doing all the leading. I finally meet up with some 5.10-5.11 climbers and spent the next 2 years following 5.10+. It sucked being the worst climber in the group and flailing on stuff that they could cruse. But, I got better and now I can lead 5.10

Of coarse it's not about the grade. I was board climbing 5.9.

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