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fontyyy
Mar 12, 2004, 12:24 PM
Post #51 of 63
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Registered: Jan 7, 2004
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In reply to: 6 months ago I really got back into it. I started going to the gym once and sometimes twice a week. I can onsight every 5.9 I come across, and it's getting really boring. I tried climbing the 5.10's and have only made a few sucsessfull attempts. I can't climb anything past 5.9! I've increased my training on the rock rings.
If it's out on the rock, just try going somewhere totally different, i.e. if you climb mostly v-steep stuff go and find some more slabby climbs, even if you can't do the 5.10's there it'll be a different enviroment and you'll improve your skills anyway.
If it's just at the gym it could be the shape/angle of the wall means to get past a particular grade they have to use really dodgy holds, this happens at my local wall, anything past 5.9 uses really tiny, painfull to use holds, you just have to have stong fingers and take the pain. By the time it gets into the 5.11's it's too much for me right now.
But out on the crag there's several more slabby climbs in the high 5.10's, low 5.11 range I can do, http://www.dangeroussite.com/...t/railway%20slab.JPG this is E1 6a (probably 5.10c), which is a really weird grade as its mega delicate but can't really hurt you, it's also completely unprotectable and is considered by most to be a bit of a big boulder problem, dunno what he's got a rope for unless his mate is going to toprope it next.
It'll come, 5.10 is about where it gets hard (IMHO) and you can't just butcher your way up anymore, good technique is required, there are shoes called 5.10, there are no 5.7 shoes, think about that.
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abock33
Mar 12, 2004, 2:06 PM
Post #52 of 63
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In reply to: I think if you provide us with some more details about your climbing and your goals for climbing then we could help you more.
Well lets see. I live at leaset a half an hour from the nearest gym. and the closest place top climb on actual rock is at The Red. That's the reason I have the rock Rings. I use them most ly for the finger training anyway. I know that's one of the area that I need to work on. I can't really climb at the Gym that often because when you drive a gas guzzeling Bronco, gas can get a bit expensive. About my climbing...
I have what I think seems like good technique (could use a little work, but orerall it is great). I can climb any 5.9 route thrown in front of me. It doesen't matter if it's a crack, overhang, Arete', Flake. It doesn't matter.
In reply to: You're recommending campus board training to a 5.9 climber? That's questionable advice. Campus boards are very easy to get injured on, and someone who can't climb 10a isn't lacking in strength anyway; he's lacking in technique.
I have no problem on the campus boards. if I climb them one at a time or if I lunge to them.
I make sure that I boulder at least half the time I'm at the Gym, and I'm waiting for the weather to ease up so I can get down to The Red more often. I've also started Lead climbing Unofficially (you have to be able to climb atleast 5.10's to lead at the gym). So I've been TR'ing alot of the Lead routes.
I think that my broblem is that I get a mental block. I'm not pushing my self hard enough. I stop because I think I'm going to fall, instead of pushing myself to the point of falling. I'm not sure why that is though. I deffinatly don't have the fear of falling. on of my other hobbies is skydiving. I think it might be the fear of the belayer not catching me when I fall. I took a 30ft crater. Luckly I think I only broke my tailbone. It never hurt bad enough to get it looked at. other than that I can't think of why this is happening. i can deffinately rule out strength and technique as possibilities.
what do you think
Andrew
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crazygirl
Mar 12, 2004, 2:56 PM
Post #53 of 63
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your problem is not mental. you are not climbing often enough. you said it yourself, that you climb one, sometimes 2 days a week. (which means 1 day a week) that, imo, is ok to stay at current level, but not to progress.
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ryanpfleger
Mar 12, 2004, 4:14 PM
Post #54 of 63
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>I think it might be the fear of the belayer not catching me when I fall. I >took a 30ft crater.
Thats your problem right there. Its pretty damn hard for anybody to climb anything when they don't trust their belayer. And it sounds like you might have good reason not to trust them. Get a new climbing partner and be anal about safety. Check out their belay setup everytime before climbing, and ask them to check out your harness and knot. Decide whether the climb/situation is safe or not while you're on the ground. If you decide its safe then go for it, and don't let your mind get int he way, just focus on the moves entirely. It really is kinda crazy what the mind can do. I have been quite afraid while toproping, to the point where it affects my climbing. But I have also been able to cooly (hey.. I thought I was pretty calm cool and collected!) simul climb 5.9+ with nothing but a 15 year old fixed pin for pro between me and the second when the anchors didn't appear when they should have.
At any rate if you're able to go up and down campus rungs with no problems, then strength is definately not the issue. In my current state of un-fitness I wouldn't even attempt training on campus rungs. I can't even do a finger tip pullup at the moment. But I top roped (still afraid to lead on my busted up ankle) 10c a couple days ago. And my technique isn't that great either. I would think about your fear and your technique, you say its pretty good, but is that just your opinion or do other experienced climbers share that opinion with you?
Ryan
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damz
Mar 12, 2004, 4:36 PM
Post #55 of 63
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Go to an aera where they over rate the routes and just climb !!! :lol:
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mustclimb69
Mar 12, 2004, 4:55 PM
Post #56 of 63
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Foot work...
Lots of foot work. tyr down climbing and traversing and bouldering a TON
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adamwvt
Mar 12, 2004, 5:54 PM
Post #57 of 63
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In reply to: Go to an aera where they over rate the routes and just climb !!! :lol:
Yeah, like the Adirondacks.
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jt512
Mar 12, 2004, 8:03 PM
Post #58 of 63
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In reply to: I stop because I think I'm going to fall, instead of pushing myself to the point of falling. I'm not sure why that is though. I deffinatly don't have the fear of falling. on of my other hobbies is skydiving.
I've made about 900 skydives and god knows how many climbs, up to mid-5.12, so hopefully I'm qualified to comment on this: Skydiving and rock climbing are completely different physical and mental challenges. Skydiving isn't falling in the way that falling on lead is. In skydiving your intention is to jump. In climbing, our intention is usually to ascend. The psychology is entirely different, as are the risks. A skydiver quickly learns that his equipment is reliable, and hence his fear -- and I wouldn't expect a non-jumper to believe this -- is irrational.
In climbing there is both rational and irrational fear. Rational fear results from awareness of being in real danger, like when you are climbing where a fall will slam you into a ledge. Irrational fear occurs when the fall really is pretty safe, but you imagine that the fall is actually dangerous. We can learn to reduce irrational fear by learning to accurately assess the consequences of a particular fall. We have to be able to objective determine that we won't hit any protrusions from the rock (ie, that the fall will be "clean"), and we need confidence in our ability to fall properly, and the ability of our equipment and partner to do their jobs. The best way to get this experience is take intentional falls in a controlled environment. This is being discussed currently in another thread, so I won't go into details here.
-Jay
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chossmonkey
Mar 12, 2004, 8:31 PM
Post #59 of 63
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Don't climb off and on. Climb at least once a week if not two or more times. Getting better doesn't happen overnight for most of us.
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davidji
Mar 12, 2004, 9:23 PM
Post #60 of 63
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Registered: Jan 30, 2003
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In reply to: I have what I think seems like good technique (could use a little work, but orerall it is great). I can climb any 5.9 route thrown in front of me. It doesen't matter if it's a crack, overhang, Arete', Flake. It doesn't matter.
In reply to: what do you think
When anyone is stuck at easy or moderate grades (while 5.9 outdoors can be hard, indoors I think it's moderate at best, and typically easy), I suspect technique. Typically techniques missing from their bag of tricks.
Have you tried watching very carefully how someone of similar dimensions climbs a route you can't, and then trying to do the moves they do? Then you might either climb it sucessfully, or better understand why not.
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escale
Mar 13, 2004, 9:43 PM
Post #61 of 63
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: Yes, I agree with everyone, climb more. I was stuck in the .9 area and this worked for me: I bouldered on real rocks more and adding practice on a campus board in my training mix. You're recommending campus board training to a 5.9 climber? That's questionable advice. Campus boards are very easy to get injured on, and someone who can't climb 10a isn't lacking in strength anyway; he's lacking in technique. -Jay
Ok, I guess that is a bit much. Well, try hanging on a campus board maybe just once a week in your training mix and grab the larger slats of wood. Slowly work in pulling hard and drop immediately if you feel any pain.
---Escale.
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jt512
Mar 15, 2004, 4:32 PM
Post #62 of 63
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In reply to: I have what I think seems like good technique (could use a little work, but orerall it is great). I can climb any 5.9 route thrown in front of me. It doesen't matter if it's a crack, overhang, Arete', Flake. It doesn't matter. I have no problem on the campus boards. if I climb them one at a time or if I lunge to them. I deffinatly don't have the fear of falling. on of my other hobbies is skydiving. what do you think
So, you have the technique of Lynn Hill, the power of Chris Sharma, and the fearlessness of Peter Croft, but you can't climb anything harder than 5.9? I give up. What do you think?
-Jay
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abock33
Mar 16, 2004, 2:20 PM
Post #63 of 63
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Registered: Mar 3, 2004
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Thanks for all the advice. I'll give them a try for a bit and tell you guys the progress. Check back in a month if interested.
Andrew
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