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nicebooty


Mar 13, 2004, 11:58 AM
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Gunks questions
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Went up there the other day, drove past teh hairpin tuern past teh p-lot on the left and parked in the one on the right for free cuz there was no ranger....I went over teh bridge and down to the cliffs o nteh right and to the ones on the left....Where can i find a good 5.6 or so to trad climb, being realitively easy to protect and all with a few pitcehs to get back into the season ? thanks


cadaverchris


Mar 13, 2004, 12:01 PM
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not to be an arse but...

1) in the guidebook

-or-

2) in the routes database


hooker


Mar 13, 2004, 12:10 PM
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I don't mind being an a$$.


From the parking spot.

Walk 1.178 miles.

Look left.


nicebooty


Mar 13, 2004, 4:13 PM
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sorry. jut thought id ask. i dont havea gunks guidebook, and dont got the cash to buy one. i thought maybe sumone would just give me some insight...nvm


barnes33


Mar 13, 2004, 8:13 PM
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disneyland in the nears is a must, frogs head or something like that in the trapps is a decent .6, thats about all that i can remember for .6s. also try the gunks website.


daryl512


Mar 13, 2004, 8:42 PM
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You'll find a good 5.6 about every 50 feet in either direction! If you don't have a guidebook just ask someone at the crag to point to a good climb for you, it's alot easier to ask someone there than to get specifics on a discussion forum. You could also go to http://www.gunks.com to get more specific information from true gunks locals.

Daryl


jakedatc


Mar 13, 2004, 8:46 PM
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Go to Gunks.com and go to the route finder.. you can even only get ***'s back if you want to.. take in account 5.6 vs gunks 5.6 too


dontfall


Mar 13, 2004, 9:06 PM
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dontfall moved this thread from US - East Coast to Regional Discussions.


charley


Mar 14, 2004, 6:15 AM
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high exposure


gunkiemike


Mar 14, 2004, 10:34 AM
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The left facing corner next to the overhang...a must do!

Seriously, with over 1000 routes here, you really need a guidebook or a local who can show you around. Otherwise you will find yourself dead-ended (or worse) on a line that LOOKED like a 5.6. Until you got to the 5.9 part. :shock:


photonicgirl


Mar 24, 2004, 3:39 PM
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Bro.

Like everyone says, just go ask people. There's lots of five sixes but be forewarned, some are not that simple (like Sixish) and I hear Maria is pretty tough. Be prepared for surprises, then go ahead and lead some sevens or eights cos I promise you, you might get a bit of a scare...depend son what you consider five six...

Jules


skiorclimb


Mar 24, 2004, 3:59 PM
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Schockleys celling is the best 6 I have ever done! Great gear, and great moves. As for finding it, consult the locals they are freindly.


curt


Mar 24, 2004, 4:12 PM
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In reply to:
Went up there the other day, drove past teh hairpin tuern past teh p-lot on the left and parked in the one on the right for free cuz there was no ranger....I went over teh bridge and down to the cliffs o nteh right and to the ones on the left....Where can i find a good 5.6 or so to trad climb, being realitively easy to protect and all with a few pitcehs to get back into the season ? thanks

Pay yer goddam Gunks daypass fee too. Loser. Do your part to support the area if you are going to climb there.

Curt


photonicgirl


Mar 24, 2004, 4:51 PM
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Dude, he is not a loser just cos he's too broke to afford the freakin expensive guidebooks. Man, I understand!

Remember your past when you were a poor climber barely able to afford shoes. Or maybe you are a yuppie, born and raised under the flag of righteousness? Nah, I trust you were not.

We gotta welcome new climbers, they deserve respect too. He'll probably pick up trash from the tourists, so give the guy a little slack.

Who's the loser? Us or them?

Jules


photonicgirl


Mar 24, 2004, 5:02 PM
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Schockleys is awesome and what about High Exposure?

Oh la lah!

And how bout leading Beginners Delight, all three five three pitches?

Gelsa? couple loose rocks on the last pitch, beware...

There's so much in the Gunks, you can always elevate to Higher Stannards when you are truly ready.

My first lead was Frogs Head, then V3. Escalated to Something Interesting and a few hairier 5.7s with with a real run out before the first piece...and 5.8s (lead) then a 5.10 sport lead in NH (bullshit, it's a 5.7 one 5.8 move)

Broken ankles...I heard my new climbing buddy's ankle snap as I lowered him on belay...he jumped and didn't uncoil his tangled rope, lower, rescue, rush to the hospital, then major surgery. I hear he's climbing again, carefully.

Sick for such easy climbs....I learned to climb in the Wichitas in Oklahoma, all the routes back then were put up by Duane Raleigh, a sick mofo if there ever was one, he publishes Rock and Ice today...Dude...

bought my first gear from him, he had a room in Norman, OK for climbing stuff...Inspired me then, inspires me now.

Get on the rocks bro. They will heal your ills. Or kill you.

Jules


piton


Mar 25, 2004, 5:42 AM
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Pay yer goddam Gunks daypass fee too. Loser

CURT, highly unnecessary!! i'm sure you have gone w/out paying! plus it's $10 now..

5.4 go do Gelsa Nears excellent. Hawk in the trapps
5.5. jackie, frogs head, horseman
5.6 bunny roof, disneyland, maria


Partner j_ung


Mar 25, 2004, 6:10 AM
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Schockleys is awesome and what about High Exposure?

Oh la lah!

And how bout leading Beginners Delight, all three five three pitches?

Gelsa? couple loose rocks on the last pitch, beware...

There's so much in the Gunks, you can always elevate to Higher Stannards when you are truly ready.

My first lead was Frogs Head, then V3. Escalated to Something Interesting and a few hairier 5.7s with with a real run out before the first piece...and 5.8s (lead) then a 5.10 sport lead in NH (s---, it's a 5.7 one 5.8 move)

Broken ankles...I heard my new climbing buddy's ankle snap as I lowered him on belay...he jumped and didn't uncoil his tangled rope, lower, rescue, rush to the hospital, then major surgery. I hear he's climbing again, carefully.

Sick for such easy climbs....I learned to climb in the Wichitas in Oklahoma, all the routes back then were put up by Duane Raleigh, a sick mofo if there ever was one, he publishes Rock and Ice today...Dude...

bought my first gear from him, he had a room in Norman, OK for climbing stuff...Inspired me then, inspires me now.

Get on the rocks bro. They will heal your ills. Or kill you.

Jules

Yow! Watch that spray, girlie! This is only my first thread of the day! Anybody got a napkin?


Partner xcel360


Mar 25, 2004, 6:38 AM
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In reply to:
Pay yer goddam Gunks daypass fee too. Loser. Do your part to support the area if you are going to climb there.

Dude, he is not a loser just cos he's too broke to afford the freakin expensive guidebooks. Man, I understand!

Remember your past when you were a poor climber barely able to afford shoes. Or maybe you are a yuppie, born and raised under the flag of righteousness? Nah, I trust you were not.

We gotta welcome new climbers, they deserve respect too. He'll probably pick up trash from the tourists, so give the guy a little slack.

Who's the loser? Us or them?

Jules

Dude, you should read the post better next time before you start up the ol' flamethrower. If you would've read it more clearly you would see that Curt was saying that he should pay his daypass there, the fee that we all have to pay unfortuantly to keep a great place like the Gunks open. Nowhere did he say that he should pay for a guidebook!

<=glen=>


bennevis


Mar 25, 2004, 2:58 PM
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Horseman(5.6) was my first lead. It has nice pro and it's close to the road. Be cautious of rock fall. Last time I was at that spot I saw a brick sized rock miss a guy casually walking on the road.


curt


Mar 25, 2004, 3:14 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Pay yer goddam Gunks daypass fee too. Loser

CURT, highly unnecessary!! i'm sure you have gone w/out paying! plus it's $10 now..

5.4 go do Gelsa Nears excellent. Hawk in the trapps
5.5. jackie, frogs head, horseman
5.6 bunny roof, disneyland, maria

On the contrary. I buy an annual Gunks pass--even in years when I may not get back there to climb. This is private land and someone has to pay for its upkeep. Sneaking in there to climb is just WRONG and selfish. If you think the Gunks is a unique resource to the climbing community, support the Mohonk Preserve.

And, unlike your other advice - all of your route choices here are excellent.

Curt


dredsovrn


Mar 25, 2004, 3:49 PM
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In reply to:
sorry. jut thought id ask. i dont havea gunks guidebook, and dont got the cash to buy one. i thought maybe sumone would just give me some insight...nvm

There are a lot. Laurel for instance. The guide would make it a lot easier considering the quantitiy. www.gunks.com and the dbase will also give you suggestions. Stop at the EMS shop right around the corner. I am sure those guys can give you some quick, good beta.


dredsovrn


Mar 25, 2004, 3:52 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Pay yer goddam Gunks daypass fee too. Loser

CURT, highly unnecessary!! i'm sure you have gone w/out paying! plus it's $10 now..

5.4 go do Gelsa Nears excellent. Hawk in the trapps
5.5. jackie, frogs head, horseman
5.6 bunny roof, disneyland, maria

On the contrary. I buy an annual Gunks pass--even in years when I may not get back there to climb. This is private land and someone has to pay for its upkeep. Sneaking in there to climb is just WRONG and selfish. If you think the Gunks is a unique resource to the climbing community, support the Mohonk Preserve.

And, unlike your other advice - all of your route choices here are excellent.

Curt

Coulnd't agree more. Lots of people pay more than that to climb at an indoor gym that smells and has maybe 30 fake routs. $10 bucks for well maintained trails and 1200 routes and world class climbing. Deal.


photonicgirl


Mar 25, 2004, 4:13 PM
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Dude, this is Jules.

I always buy a yearly pass. Agreed that is the way to go. and agreed about all the great climbs everyone has listed.

Tell me,when did this man ever say he didn't pay a fee?

I must have missed that. Did everyone assume he didn't pay?

Please clarify.

Jules


nicebooty


Mar 25, 2004, 4:16 PM
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oh, im so sorry for offending you mr. tuff guy kurt. grow up.


dredsovrn


Mar 25, 2004, 4:18 PM
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Dude, he is not a loser just cos he's too broke to afford the freakin expensive guidebooks. Man, I understand!

Remember your past when you were a poor climber barely able to afford shoes. Or maybe you are a yuppie, born and raised under the flag of righteousness? Nah, I trust you were not.

We gotta welcome new climbers, they deserve respect too. He'll probably pick up trash from the tourists, so give the guy a little slack.

Who's the loser? Us or them?

Jules

Please. Grow up. "A yuppie born undera the flag or righteousness." What does that even mean? Come on.

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