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lead rope diameter
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sparky


Mar 15, 2004, 8:37 PM
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lead rope diameter
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What diameter rope would you suggest for an aid lead line? I have a 9.3 or 9.5mm rope I use for trad, but I was thinking about getting something a little fatter before I get too far into aiding, maybe--10.5 or 11mm. Good idea or waste of prescious $$$? If I were to get a lead line just for aid, how fat should it be?


lambone


Mar 15, 2004, 8:43 PM
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No, definately a good idea.

10 mil at least, if you are going light. 10.5 works pretty well for most cases.

I recomend a rope that is certified for an edge fall. Such ropes are the Mamut Supersafe and the Edelwise(sp?) Stratos 10.5 mil.

Two reasons you want a bomber rope:
Edges
Juging
and Juging with the rope over and edge.

Juging thin ropes is scary as hell. Especially on a wall.

If you are just starting out and practicing on mellow stuff, then any old rope is probly fine. But if you are doing a real wall then get something bomber.

Have fun!


epic_ed


Mar 15, 2004, 10:38 PM
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The higher you get, the thinner the rope looks. I remember on my first wall, my partners 10.5mm rope looked like a shoe string when I lowered out from the first belay on Leaning Tower. :shock:

Ropes take a lot of abuse on a wall. Less so if you're soloing, but in general the jugging really puts your rope through a lot. It also seems that falling on lead is much more frequent while aiding -- or it has been in my case. Granted, the falls aren't usually big whippers (especially on the C1, C2 stuff), but they happen more often.

I bought one of the Yates Big Wall ropes last year. It's an 11mm, 65M rope manufactured for Yates by Blue Water. Basically, it's a longer (by 5Ms) version of the Blue Water Enduro in a different color. It's also rated to survive one sharp edge fall. I have nothing but positive things to say about the rope. Excellent hand, nice manufacturer stats (impact force, elongation, etc.), and it really inspires confidence. I'll be buying another one when this one wears out.

Ed


diesel___smoke


Mar 15, 2004, 10:51 PM
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What?


rockscaler2


Mar 15, 2004, 10:56 PM
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10mm-10.5 dude...dont scrap on weight with a rope....lol


diesel___smoke


Mar 15, 2004, 10:59 PM
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What?


smithclimber


Mar 15, 2004, 11:04 PM
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I'm with Lambone. A beefier rope, 10.2mm and up, is a MUCH better idea than using sub 10mm ropes. Keep the skinny cords for general climbing.

I also am a big fan of getting an "edge test" rope for doing walls. When I bought my wall rope, I decided between two ropes. Care to guess what they were? Edelweiss Stratos and the Mammut Supersafe.


skiclimb


Mar 15, 2004, 11:36 PM
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I had a 10.5 stratos which was great...but after a few walls and after I retired it...I just went to a cheapo 9.8...I woried about wall stuff a lot more than I needed too before I had done any...they tend to require a lot less from a lead rope than sport climbing. if you bounce while jugging you are dumb...and you won't be jugging my rope more than two pitches..one I'll warn ya..two times..you bail. In general people worry WAY too much about their ropes.


diesel___smoke


Mar 16, 2004, 6:56 AM
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What?


epic_ed


Mar 16, 2004, 7:18 AM
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What, what?

What are you doing drinkin and postin this early? And it's not even St. Paddies day.


rngrchad


Mar 16, 2004, 7:41 AM
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What are you guys what'n about?


lambone


Mar 16, 2004, 8:55 AM
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I had a 10.5 stratos which was great...but after a few walls and after I retired it...I just went to a cheapo 9.8...I woried about wall stuff a lot more than I needed too before I had done any...they tend to require a lot less from a lead rope than sport climbing. if you bounce while jugging you are dumb...and you won't be jugging my rope more than two pitches..one I'll warn ya..two times..you bail. In general people worry WAY too much about their ropes.

On steep routes you bounce on the rope a little no mater how hard you try not to. Sure there are ways to minimize it, but you will allways get some rub, ignore it and your askin to get the chop.

One other reasion I like > than 10mil is that they work better with a Gri-Gri. The lable on the Gri-Gri says don't go below 10, and I'll take their word for it on a wall...mostly cause I belay either solo or sleeping.


skiclimb


Mar 16, 2004, 9:58 AM
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true a little bounce is unavoidable...however you can generally avoid having the rope run over a sharp edge and minor rubover smoth stuff concerns me little...heavy bouncing pisses me off cause I know it's wearing out my rope internally way faster than neccesary. Nothing aginst bigger diameter...they are of course somewhat safer..I just don't find the extra weight necesary in my experience.


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