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10ftdrp
Mar 17, 2004, 12:31 AM
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Registered: Mar 14, 2004
Posts: 107
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I Bought a Black Diamond Alpine Bod harness and ive seen the instuctions and they say to tie the rope directly into the harness when climbing. would it make a diffrence if i jsut put the rope into a locking biener through the crotch loop and the waist belt?
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jakedatc
Mar 17, 2004, 12:38 AM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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Go by the instructions..
tie in through both the waist belt and the loop... you don't need a biner
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sbaclimber
Mar 17, 2004, 1:49 AM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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I now own my second BD Bod harness, and I would have to agree with jakedatc. After a couple of years of using a carabiner most of the time to tie in while on top-rope (some gyms don't give you much choice in the matter), I found that the screw gate or twist-lock tended to wear on the croch loop much more than when I tied in directly. So, needless to say, I would advise tying in directly whenever possible. As far as tying in for a lead goes, I would always do it directly and never with a carabiner.
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skiclimb
Mar 17, 2004, 2:20 AM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
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You can use a biner just fine...I've done more climbing in Bod Harnesses than anything else from expeditions to walls..(suugest yates for walls however)....Alpine or regular Bod...I also hack the little extra keeper buckle off em too...
However tying in does eliminate one possible failure point (especially a crossloading) and some clutter..so for most things I just tie in...
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fitz
Mar 17, 2004, 5:08 PM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
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I don't mean to sound harsh, but this thread reminded me of a neck injury in SoCal a couple of years back. Sport climbing can give the impression that biners (and bolts) never fail. But, quickdraws tend to orient the biner for max strength. Biners are dramatically weaker when they are loaded open gate, or cross loaded.
Biner tie in is probably fine for top roping, provided that the belayer keeps the rope reasonably tight. But, let some slack get into the line, use static rope, etc. and you can pretty quickly get to the point where the force from a fall is near (or above) the biner's weakest spec. Remember, if a quickdraw gives, you fall an extra body length. If your tie in point gives, you're going to hit the deck. I've seen it, and it is not pretty.
Another benefit to spending 30 seconds tying in is that the knot moves around. Falling and hauling on the same knot all afternoon excellerates the wear and tear on your line.
-jjf
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