|
adeptus
Mar 17, 2004, 8:06 PM
Post #1 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 322
|
I’m going on a road trip in about a month from now. I’ve been training indoor all winter and I’m therefore super psyched to get on real rock. It’s going to be trad climbing at my limit, both onsight and a few redpoints.
What should I train in the weeks up to the road trip: Endurance or power-endurance?
Also do any of you know any specific exercises for trad? I thought that maybe climbing statically; holding each grimp for 10 seconds or maybe doing some easy traverses with a 2 kg weigh belt.
Any help would be appreciated :D
|
|
|
|
|
incogneato
Mar 17, 2004, 8:38 PM
Post #2 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2004
Posts: 35
|
Depending on your level of climbing you will want to train finger strength. From weighted hangs to a crimp systems wall, talk to someone knowledgeable about excercizes that pertain to your level of ability.
My gym has a slightly overhanging hand crack that I do specilize training with. I climb up and down it while smearing my feet on the featureless outside wall. this makes me engage on every move, meaning I can develop that those hand jam muscles on an easy 5.8 crack.
Personally, I just train to be a better 'climber' when I train. That means, strength in the first third of a training season, power in the second, and endurance in the third. Click here for a good link on a structured training program.
Hard trad climbing is a learned technique, you will only progress by doing. You can't really train specifically for trad climbing in general, you just develop the skills by doing it. Just make sure your gear is good and then throw yurself at as many cracks as possible. It is imperitive that you are a solid 5.11 gear climber before you start working lots of 5.12s because there is probably some trick or tecnique you missed by not getting the miles in on the 5.11s.
|
|
|
|
|
ctclimbz
Mar 17, 2004, 8:42 PM
Post #3 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2003
Posts: 137
|
I have found that wearing a weighted belt in the gym helps with my trad prep come warm weather time. Since I spend so much time in the winter climbing with nothing on my harness, weighting my harness, or wearing a weight belt, reminds me of what it feels like to climb with the weight of a rack hanging off of my harness before I get outside and am rudely reminded...
|
|
|
|
|
madmax
Mar 17, 2004, 9:05 PM
Post #4 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2003
Posts: 354
|
If you want to start training for hard trad, you'd better start drinking more beer, smoking more of anything, and start sleeping in til about 11. A couple weeks of that regime and you'll be well on your way to onsighting some hard trad.
|
|
|
|
|
rocket
Mar 17, 2004, 9:30 PM
Post #5 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 23, 2003
Posts: 42
|
I wish you well on your trip, and please forgive me in advance as I do not know your trad climbing level. It sounds like you're kind of new to it.
I agree with most that for the strength a weight belt is good, but I generally strap on my gear and take my time going up the wall in the gym and act like I'm setting. That will help test your footing, focus and fingers.
My other suggestion is to enjoy the trip and make it a learning experience. As another post said: "Trad climbing is a learned technique".
Find a nice crack that is 2-3 levels below your sport climbing skill. Sport climbing ability does not always equate over to trad ability. The headgame is too strong. It is a mental game and a far better learning experience if the route is not too difficult, physically. That way you can focus on good gear placement, good positioning and learn to work through the mental game.
Remember to wear a helmet and always - have fun!!
That's what it is all about anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
adeptus
Mar 17, 2004, 9:53 PM
Post #6 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 322
|
Well, I'm not exactly new to trad climbing. At the end of last season I consistently onsighted 5.10 and have done some sketchy aid climbing as well, so the gear is not the problem.
I’ve been using the 4-3-2 training cycle and was wondering if I should end the program with pure endurance, which I guess would be good for onsighting, were it takes time to figure out the right sequence; or if I should end with some power-endurance which will be good for redpoints.
I would like to peak just at the beginning of the trip. Should I take a week off just before the trip to restituate and peak?
|
|
|
|
|
aulwes
Mar 17, 2004, 11:18 PM
Post #7 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2001
Posts: 703
|
I love training with weights!!! When I take off the weights I feel like it can fly up the wall.
|
|
|
|
|
ctclimbz
Mar 17, 2004, 11:32 PM
Post #8 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2003
Posts: 137
|
In reply to: Should I take a week off just before the trip to restituate and peak?
I would definitely recommend yes to this part. Especially if you have been training all winter, a week of recovery and rebuild time will be extremely beneficial for your muscles. When I swam competetively, we always had a 'taper' to our training sessions before a big meet. This meant we would do some light, easy, easy training to keep the muscle memory intact, but would allow the muscles to rest and get fully primed for maximum use at the end of the week. I think the same principle applies to climbing. If you rest, maybe doing easy traversing to keep the muscles warm, you will be primed to reap the rewards of your winter work on your trip. Plus, if you're like a lot of people on this board, a week with no climbing will be a huge mental incentive to get out and send! Good luck on your roadtrip.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Mar 17, 2004, 11:56 PM
Post #9 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
I mean this in the nicest way possible, this is not a troll.
If you are only onsighting 10+ right now, you just need more miles. No special training, weight belts, peaking, power endurance, blah blah blah. CLimb often, climb hard, climb easy, just get in the experience. At this level training isn't very important. Have fun.
I'm right and I'm gonna get flamed.
|
|
|
|
|
omenbringer
Mar 18, 2004, 12:54 AM
Post #10 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 248
|
Second the motion of climbing with your rack in the gym, that way your used to the weight, which will probably be a lot heavier than a 2 kg weight. And when I say rack I mean everything you plan on leading with. And as everyone else has said already practice gear placements on rock that is close to the ground and log as much time as possible on any trad route regardless of grade. Sport climbing is no substitute
|
|
|
|
|
dredsovrn
Mar 18, 2004, 1:53 AM
Post #11 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
|
I throw every piece of gear I have on my rack, and try to stay on my home wall doing traverses as long as I can. I try to pull of a piece of gear here and there, and fit it in a hold, or space between boards.
Sometimes I rope up, and put quick draws, or fish biners and slings off to clip bolt hangers I have on the wall. Once I turn the corner on the wall the rope drag is insane. It makes it interesting, and make you find positions you can take one hand off to mess with gear.
|
|
|
|
|
cragmasterp
Mar 18, 2004, 2:58 AM
Post #12 of 12
(1373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 278
|
I like to climb on my outdoor wall and tighten the holds while climbing. I usually do this with 2 different size wrenches that I carry in a tool loop in my jeans.
This will force you to stop, hang on a hold, pull out the right size wrench, tighten, and replace the wrench before you proceed. (my wall has overhanging sections, but is not very cave-like).
|
|
|
|
|
|
