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climbsomething
Mar 18, 2004, 11:06 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2002
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J-TREE ALL*STARS
[a trip report, by Hillary]
WITH:
Curt as "curt"
Jay as "jt512"
Adam as "rrradam"
Art as "artm"
Tim as "tim"
Beth as "moabbeth"
Zac as "pbcowboy"
*and*
Hillary as "climbsomething"
3/12/04 (Friday)
Curt and I arrive early and decide to do a little bouldering. After spending four hours in the car with me, the poor guy could use a little stress relief.
We set out into the desert for Pinched Loaf, a problem that stymied one of Curt's legendary friends. Of course, now Curt has to send it for double the satisfaction.
As soon as the car is out of sight, I see that the only other tracks were pressed into the sand by last night's wandering coyotes. The slight breeze and crunching earth under my feet are tranquil, calming - the desert seems virgin, like my eyes are the first to take in the greens and yellows, the blues and browns.
We locate our bloc, a beautiful diamond-shaped face with rounded holds. After wrestling with the open-handed grips a few times, Curt concedes. Pinched Loaf wins again, so we set out for Tips Be Gone, a steep V7 up a slashed face that seems to be far more Curt's style.
http://hillarydavis.com/.../curtpinchedloaf.jpgCurt on Pinched Loaf. It was hard.
Curt susses the squat start as I scramble up the backside. Silly contrived bouldering- I found the eays way up! Run 'n jump, one-move wonder of Class 2. My popcorn-for-brains dog could have done that- I don't know what Curt's problem is. Oh well. As long as he's having the most fun!!
But a few tips-grating slaps later, Curt unties his shoes. It's getting close to dinnertime, and he hadn't had any beer beforehand anyway.
Knowing I am keen on traverses, Curt drives us over to Trashcan Rock and in the dwindling light we hop on the Gripper Traverse. It's a fun little problem, although the sit-start somebody left their chalk-guano on is stupid. But Curt squeezed a tick in today, and I ripped my finger open somehow, so we're legit now.
With Jay and a few other rockclimbing.com all-stars joining us tomorrow, I set my sights for bleeding into finger cracks and grousing over grainy dishes under my toes - real Joshua Tree climbing!
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climbsomething
Mar 18, 2004, 11:18 PM
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3/13/04 (Saturday)
Lots of pretty men getting breakfast at Crossroads- Beth, you missed out!
As the crew filters into the Intersection Rock parking lot, I greet them all with a serenade from Quack Diamond, my singing handpuppet duck. He belts out Old MacDonald, Freres Jacques, and London Bridge. I wonder who he'll drive to homicide first.
Curt, Jay and I (sans duck) say our hellos, but then head back toward the park entrance. Our first stop is Baskerville Rock for a short but quality thin crack- Right Baskerville Crack, 5.10a.
http://hillarydavis.com/...g/jaybaskerville.jpgJay transitioning from slab to crack on Right Baskerville Crack. Entering the crack is the crux.
After that, Jay and I break from our sport-climbers'-approach rules by wandering up the boulder-covered slope to the White Cliffs of Dover- we're, like, a mile from the car now. Radical.
Curt ties in to lead Popular Mechanics, an attractive open book up bone-white rock. I pass him my biner of nuts and say, "My nuts are so happy to be used."
"Mine too," he deadpans.
(I guess that joke was too easy, huh?)
Then Jay decides to give it a lead, and surprises me by declaring it his new favorite route at the Monument/Park. I'm not surprised that it's good, I'm just surprised that Jay would enthusiastically endorse a gear climb. Doctor, I think we're losing him!
But he was right- the route was a beautiful blend of fingerlocks and crisp flakes, with a nearly-blank wisp that I mitigated by crimping crystals on the arete. My finger ripped open again, and I smeared blood all over my shirt and the anchors as I ran the rope through the rings.
After that elegant line, we threw a toprope down on Digital Watch, a short but burly tips crack layback problem. My small fingers and gym-bred tenacity served me well, but as soon as I thought I had the flash, my foot just popped. Very frustrating. Flashing hard crack was never one of my specialties- guess it still isn't. The one that got away!...
*moment of silence*
Anyway.
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climbsomething
Mar 18, 2004, 11:32 PM
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Although we ultimately didn't really hang out with the crew, I wanted to say hi anyway. I am sure everybody had fun- good times, as always. Till next time!
The End
http://hillarydavis.com/...climbing/jtreerv.jpgIn a non-passing lane, OF COURSE!
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jt512
Mar 18, 2004, 11:44 PM
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In reply to: Although we ultimately didn't really hang out with the crew...
Those trads were supposed to meet us at the White Cliffs of Dover, but they never showed up. I don't think they could handle the hike.
-Jay
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curt
Mar 19, 2004, 12:54 AM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Nice TR Hillary. I did do a great job of sandbagging myself on Friday. :D
Curt
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climbsomething
Mar 19, 2004, 12:57 AM
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In reply to: Nice TR Hillary. I did do a great job of sandbagging myself on Friday. :D Curt |
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moabbeth
Mar 19, 2004, 12:57 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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In reply to: 3/13/04 (Saturday) Lots of pretty men getting breakfast at Crossroads- Beth, you missed out! .
That place always has a lot of lookers in it!!
But I was nearby waking up next to the best looking man in town :wink: !! But alas, he's now left the Tree for the season so I'll be right there with ya next time checking out the Crossroads breakfast hotties. :lol:
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mreardon
Mar 19, 2004, 1:19 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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Really nice. Wish I had met up with you guys, sounds like it was fun. Next time.
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curt
Mar 19, 2004, 1:48 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Although we ultimately didn't really hang out with the crew... Those trads were supposed to meet us at the White Cliffs of Dover, but they never showed up. I don't think they could handle the hike. -Jay
Jay,
You spelled "tards" wrong.
Curt
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rrrADAM
Mar 20, 2004, 6:40 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Very nice Hil... Here's a pic I took of Tim who was doing a nice flag with the right leg while going for the left foot to hand match while leading the Right Mel Crack 5.10c... Note-This is actually the crack on the right, go figure. :?
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=28095
BTW... I loved the duck... Gotta get one for the kid. :D
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