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danielb
Mar 19, 2004, 5:19 PM
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What is the best type of wires for racking nuts? I currently use some DMM wiregates but find I don't get many nuts per biner as one end of the biner is narrower than the other. I've seen some people in the US use Ovels for racking wires are they any better?
Daniel
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kidmoab
Mar 19, 2004, 5:22 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
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Key lock ovals
happy trading
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coylec
Mar 19, 2004, 5:24 PM
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In reply to: Key lock ovals happy trading
I'm using std ovals right now, but i'm switching to keylocks when i get money or some beneviolent spirit feels pity and gets them for me.
coylec
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stick233
Mar 19, 2004, 5:38 PM
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i got a bunch of BD oval wiregates awhile back for 4 bucks a piece. i think they are the best overall tradding beaners... i love 'em!
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olympicmtnboy
Mar 19, 2004, 5:38 PM
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Yep, keylock ovals! Perhaps the poll ought to be reworded to either ask about gate type, or biner shape? I can't put keylock ovals down, or what if I liked oval wiregates? Or a curved gate modified D? Hehehe.
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vegastradguy
Mar 19, 2004, 5:43 PM
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Wire gates arent so good for racking stoppers. They tend to work their way under the gate and fall out. I dropped two or three stoppers on a climb b/c they were on a wire gate. I was just climbing along and my belayer is like 'dude, you're dropping your gear!' and i didnt even know it!
the petzl owall is probably the best, being the only keylock oval on the market, but any oval is going to be fine for most racking purposes.
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davidji
Mar 19, 2004, 5:46 PM
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Key lock. Not one of the choices in the poll (at least not when I posted) though.
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boss
Mar 19, 2004, 6:19 PM
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A big hell yeah to key lock krabs. Try BD's positron.
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cjstudent
Mar 19, 2004, 6:19 PM
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I'll stick with my regular ovals for now. I don't want to loose an entire set of nuts and the notch helps me keep from loosing them. And its not that hard to remove a nut from the biners with the notch there.
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dredsovrn
Mar 19, 2004, 6:28 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
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BD oval wire.
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sspssp
Mar 19, 2004, 6:42 PM
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As you can tell from the post, a lot of people like racking stoppers on ovals. I don't. My complaint with ovals, is that you can't tell by feel which way the gate is going to open or for that matter, evern which side of the biner the gate is on. This leads to fumbling and occasionally dropped stopper. Sure doesn't seem worth it to me. I prefer asymetric, keylock Ds. I have heard people complain that you can't get enough stoppers on asymetric Ds or that the stoppers are hard to get off. But I have had less problems with this than having the gate open in an unexpected direction with ovals.
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vegastradguy
Mar 19, 2004, 6:53 PM
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ovals are easy to tell when the gate is facing up..even by feel. Dovals, on the other hand.....of course, i used ovals exclusively for the 1st 2 years of my climbing experience...so maybe i'm just used to them.
that said, i have changed my stoppers over to BD Positrons for racking, mostly for both the weight savings and the keylock. I'm starting to climb more at my limit, and I dont want to fumble with gear.
However, for racking purposes, and oval for your stoppers is usually perfect, because most of us place stoppers from a good stance (at least when we start out), so we usually have a free hand to grab the biner w/out dropping anything. just my opinion, of course...
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kidmoab
Mar 19, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Kong makes key lock ovalsand. cheaper than petzl
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munckee
Mar 19, 2004, 7:13 PM
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In reply to: Wire gates arent so good for racking stoppers. They tend to work their way under the gate and fall out. I dropped two or three stoppers on a climb b/c they were on a wire gate. I was just climbing along and my belayer is like 'dude, you're dropping your gear!' and i didnt even know it!
I rack everything on neutrinos. It's the only non-locking biner I own with the exception of a single D that I use of misc. b!tch work. Never had a single piece work its way off a biner before.
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junnos
Mar 19, 2004, 7:33 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
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I can't believe people actually use a special type of biner to rack their nuts. Damn, I just use the ones I find at the base of El Cap. If you drop or loose nuts it's YOUR ERROR, not the biner.
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skiclimb
Mar 19, 2004, 10:53 PM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
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Petzl keylocks
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mattm
Mar 19, 2004, 11:02 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2003
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In reply to: Key lock ovals happy trading
ditto - kong or petzl new one
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tahoe_rock_master
Mar 20, 2004, 4:32 AM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
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Another for oval wiregates.
1. Cheap
2. Light
3. great benefits of normal oval
Best trad biner ever
Matt
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vegastradguy
Mar 20, 2004, 6:58 AM
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actually, i dont see how it can be my error. well, other than it was my error for racking my stoppers on a neutrino. stoppers, can and have worked their way out of a wire gate carabiner. i'm not the only person on this site that it's happened to. the movement of my leg pushed the wires up against the nose and they slipped out. two of them in 10 feet of climbing.
i stick with solid gate biners for racking stoppers. cams, i'm not worried so much. of course, this is purely personal experience, and you drop a stopper once, you remedy the situation. i've never dropped a stopper since.
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