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Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino?
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vtaclimber


Mar 19, 2004, 1:09 PM
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Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino?
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has anyone used this device yet? i own a reverso, and the rappels can be a little scary(fast) with double ropes. the reversino looks like it might provide more friction when belaying or rappeling. any info?


sspssp


Mar 19, 2004, 1:11 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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I don't know about the reversino (although being marketed for skinnier ropes, I would hope it would work well). You can add a second biner to the reverso and that will up the friction.


dredsovrn


Mar 19, 2004, 1:54 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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I was just going to order a Reverso with my new 8.6mm half ropes. I thought about the Reversino, but they list it as being for 7.5-8.2 and the standard Reverso as 8-11mm. I would go for the extra biner. I am afraid the Reversino might be too small for all but the tiniest floss.


crackboy


Mar 19, 2004, 4:01 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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where have you guys seen it..i have been looking for one since like december when they were supposedly coming out, but havn't seen any, i haven't looked that hard, but youd think it would be easy to find


dredsovrn


Mar 19, 2004, 4:16 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
where have you guys seen it..i have been looking for one since like december when they were supposedly coming out, but havn't seen any, i haven't looked that hard, but youd think it would be easy to find

I saw it in their catalog. Not in real life yet. Now that I think about it. But these guys have it. http://www.backcountrystore.com/store/PTZ0066.html?AFC=CJDataFeedhttp://


geezergecko


Mar 19, 2004, 4:52 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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The Petzl manual that comes with the Reversino does state that it is for ropes 7.5mm to 8.2mm in diameter. While this is great for owners of Beal Ice Line (8.1mm) or Mammut Phoenix (8.0mm), it is bad news for Mammut Genesis (8.5mm) and Bluewater Excellence (8.6mm) just to name two other half ropes. I use Mammut Genesis (8.5mm) and I find that a Reverso is a bit too slick in normal mode and I have to either use it backwards or use 2 biners to increase friction. I would have hoped that the Reversino would have been a more elegant solution to a belay device with autoblocking but now I'm looking to trying the Mammut Matrix instead. To the folks at Petzl I say "How about something in between a Reverso and a Reversino? Call it a Reversette or something."


dredsovrn


Mar 19, 2004, 6:10 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
The Petzl manual that comes with the Reversino does state that it is for ropes 7.5mm to 8.2mm in diameter. While this is great for owners of Beal Ice Line (8.1mm) or Mammut Phoenix (8.0mm), it is bad news for Mammut Genesis (8.5mm) and Bluewater Excellence (8.6mm) just to name two other half ropes. I use Mammut Genesis (8.5mm) and I find that a Reverso is a bit too slick in normal mode and I have to either use it backwards or use 2 biners to increase friction. I would have hoped that the Reversino would have been a more elegant solution to a belay device with autoblocking but now I'm looking to trying the Mammut Matrix instead. To the folks at Petzl I say "How about something in between a Reverso and a Reversino? Call it a Reversette or something."

Agreed. I was suprised they skipped what is likely the most popular size of half ropes. What about an ATC XP. any better on the friction side?


dredsovrn


Mar 19, 2004, 6:17 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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How about the Wild Country Variable Controller for 8.6's?


davidji


Mar 19, 2004, 6:29 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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Agreed. I was suprised they skipped what is likely the most popular size of half ropes. What about an ATC XP. any better on the friction side?
The XP is the best device I've used for belaying a leader on 8.6mm doubles. For follower (especially two at once), I prefer the B52.


davidji


Mar 19, 2004, 6:36 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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How about the Wild Country Variable Controller for 8.6's?
No!!!
Sorry. Sticht plates are OK, but I think tube-type devices are better. The VC is pretty much a plate that's thicker on one side. I've never used my VC with my doubles (because I don't use it anymore), but you really want a device with a good grab to catch the leader on one skinny strand. I don't think the VC is the device for that.


dredsovrn


Mar 19, 2004, 7:09 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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I have an XP. I will stick with that then.


munckee


Mar 19, 2004, 8:32 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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I've always used an ATC with my twin ropes with no problem. I'm considering a reverso for my trip this summer for bringing up a second.


harihari


Mar 20, 2004, 11:11 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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I found that the Reverson was fine with 8.5 but newish 8.4s weren't quite held as tight as they might have been. The dvice worked well for autolocking mode bringing up my second-- but for rapping I'd use it backwards or add another biener.


dredsovrn


Mar 21, 2004, 7:10 PM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
How about the Wild Country Variable Controller for 8.6's?
No!!!
Sorry. Sticht plates are OK, but I think tube-type devices are better. The VC is pretty much a plate that's thicker on one side. I've never used my VC with my doubles (because I don't use it anymore), but you really want a device with a good grab to catch the leader on one skinny strand. I don't think the VC is the device for that.

What do you think of the DMM Bugette?


shakylegs


Mar 22, 2004, 9:58 AM
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Re: Any double rope climbers using petzl reversino? [In reply to]
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dred, I do believe that the Reversino is now available at MEC. Too bad I didn't know about it earlier, since I use 8.0 mm ropes.


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