|
angry
Mar 22, 2004, 10:36 PM
Post #1 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
Got in this discussion in the desert this weekend. I like the corners, my partner however states emphatically that they are all gay. His arguement is that corners are a good bit easier laying the sucka back, if you climb it straight in, it's harder. To have 2 rating for a route in his opinion is gay, but to give it the lieback rating means that it would be sandbagged if you climbed it straight in.
I can name many examples of routes where this is the case, I climb everything straight in unless I absoletely have to. I don't really care how someone else climbs it and if they want to place all their gear off a layback, well that is fine by me. It doesn't make the route gay.
I'm convinced that my partner hates climbing and is coming up with excuses to just go do the same 5 routes over and over again.
Discuss.
|
|
|
|
|
keinangst
Mar 22, 2004, 10:38 PM
Post #2 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
|
In reply to: Got in this discussion in the desert this weekend. I like the corners, my partner however states emphatically that they are all gay.
Well, I was jamming up a cracked dihedral the other day, and sure enough, it grabbed a hold of my caulk and wouldn't let go.
Therefore, I have to agree with your friend. Or at least they're bi-curious.
|
|
|
|
|
slablizard
Mar 22, 2004, 10:40 PM
Post #3 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
|
LOL!
The stuff you guys smoke must be way better than mine.
|
|
|
|
|
chupa
Mar 22, 2004, 10:41 PM
Post #4 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2004
Posts: 223
|
Yeah,
If you lieback the Bachar-Yerian that would be harder too. I guess that needs 2 grades.
|
|
|
|
|
atg200
Mar 22, 2004, 10:56 PM
Post #5 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
|
if you want to lead those desert corners as a lieback, go ahead and downgrade it. but, by his insane rational rattly finger cracks are gay because they are sweet hand cracks for pixie-like girls and rattly fists are gay because they are big hands for a dude like peter croft that has huge mitts.
ratings on desert racks are decorations - no more.
|
|
|
|
|
slavetogravity
Mar 22, 2004, 10:57 PM
Post #6 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 1114
|
Based on your description of your friend I would say that anyone who finds lay backing up a corner crack easier then jamming it is a no talent hack, who couldn’t climb there way out of a cardboard box. If he was a wicked crack jamming all star, like me, I'm sure he'd find desert corners much more enjoyable. As for things that ARE gay, I'd say climbing the same 5 routes day after day fits the bill quite nicely.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Mar 22, 2004, 11:35 PM
Post #7 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
Well to defend my partner, he climbs everything straight in. He couldn't do a layback if his life depended on it. If it's a numbers game, the guy is tougher than 90% of the people who frequent southern utah. His problem is how picky he is, climbing is fun because climbing is fun, that is what he struggles with. Evan after doing some perfect crack that he totally enjoyed, he still says how it could have been better.
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Mar 22, 2004, 11:41 PM
Post #8 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Climbers who frown or look down on another form, style, or type of climbing are gay.
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Mar 23, 2004, 12:03 AM
Post #9 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
You and your partner need to get a room. He is not only gay, as gay as the gayest dihedral, of which by the way some are actually Trisexual, since some can be stemmed, jammed or laid back, but he is a perfectionist and a route snob as well. Get away fast before you are permanently damaged. Oh wait, I forgot, from your picture you have already died, so it does not matter. The dead need not worry about sexuality. Or being corrupted by perfectionist route snobs. Or anything, actually. That's because they are dead. I think.
Trade you some of yours for some of mine.
But seriously, maybe you can convince him that climbing in the most efficient way is not the same way for every climber, and that he should just chill.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Mar 23, 2004, 12:46 AM
Post #10 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
Doing corners straight in is gayer than laybacking. First of all, you can't go straight in because the sidewall of the dihedral is in the way, which means you end up scumming your shoulder against the wall and practically getting no hands rests. We used to refer to this technique as "pillow-biting" back when single pitch trad climbing was still relevant and non-boring. Like 25 years ago. Secondly, any technique which renders bone wedging..ah, excuse me, crack climbing, any easier than it already is, is an admission that even this most basic of climbing techniques is over one's head-sort of like using a calculator at the 99 cent discount store. If your partner, or you, are looking for a way to make climbing more strenuous, try those scuba diving weight belts. Or sport climbing.
Hope this helps.
|
|
|
|
|
atg200
Mar 23, 2004, 12:53 AM
Post #11 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
|
not really asshole. go glue some chossy limestone together and pose.
|
|
|
|
|
mreardon
Mar 23, 2004, 12:55 AM
Post #12 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
|
In reply to: not really asshole. go glue some chossy limestone together and pose.
But how do you really feel?
|
|
|
|
|
atg200
Mar 23, 2004, 12:58 AM
Post #13 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
|
In reply to: In reply to: not really asshole. go glue some chossy limestone together and pose. But how do you really feel?
i just get so sick of this pretentious ass sniping at crack climbers in every crack technique thread and indian creek picture on the whole damn site. i suppose i should killfile him, but i like his photography.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Mar 23, 2004, 1:02 AM
Post #14 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*not really asshole. go glue some chossy limestone together and pose.*
ah...thank you Clarice...thank you...
|
|
|
|
|
mreardon
Mar 23, 2004, 1:04 AM
Post #15 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
|
In reply to: i just get so sick of this pretentious ass sniping at crack climbers in every crack technique thread and indian creek picture on the whole damn site. i suppose i should killfile him, but i like his photography.
It's tough being a hetorosexual in a sport climber's world and it's messing with his psyche. At one point he actually did plenty of trad but then some biker dude with backless chaps taught him the wonders of clipping bolts and well, you can see what's happened.... :D
|
|
|
|
|
atg200
Mar 23, 2004, 1:06 AM
Post #16 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
|
it was worth reading his post just for that mreardon. thanks for the laugh.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Mar 23, 2004, 6:13 AM
Post #17 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*It's tough being a hetorosexual in a sport climber's world and it's messing with his psyche.*
Don't pick on me because you took the easy road and joined all the other closeted gay men in the trad world...er, wait, you've been bouldering a lot lately, right? Congrats on finally coming out!
just kiddin mike
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Mar 23, 2004, 7:47 AM
Post #18 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
In reply to: Climbers who frown or look down on another form, style, or type of climbing are gay.
No one is gayer then me.
|
|
|
|
|
traddad
Mar 23, 2004, 1:47 PM
Post #19 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129
|
OK, I’ll step up. The use of the word gay as a derogatory term just bugs the heck out of me. Would any of you say “desert corners are so Jewish” or “sport climbers are a bunch of spicks”?
Hey, even if you believe that sexual orientations other than hetero are wrong, you should be at least civil.
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
Mar 23, 2004, 2:07 PM
Post #20 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
In reply to: OK, I’ll step up. The use of the word gay as a derogatory term just bugs the heck out of me. Would any of you say “desert corners are so Jewish” or “sport climbers are a bunch of spicks”? Hey, even if you believe that sexual orientations other than hetero are wrong, you should be at least civil.
I'd agree with that. Lets watch the "hate speech" guys.
|
|
|
|
|
chizelz
Mar 23, 2004, 2:16 PM
Post #21 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2004
Posts: 262
|
hats off to you traddad, well said! surely these articulate climbers can find a better word in their vocabulary. There should be a little smiley taking his hat off here X.
|
|
|
|
|
fitzontherocks
Mar 23, 2004, 2:39 PM
Post #22 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 864
|
Props for Traddad (and btw: in your photo, would you call that a lieback or straight in?).
And referring to mreardon's signature about minorities climbing, how many gay climbers are out there? Is it the familiar 10%? I figure if you climb, you're cool. If you climb and you're out and proud, you're even cooler. Anyone care to venture a guess?
|
|
|
|
|
rockprodigy
Mar 23, 2004, 2:50 PM
Post #23 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 1540
|
How about a thread on cheese-dick homophobic punter crack climbers? Keep that $hit out of here!
The fact that you introduced this thread suggests to me that you're stuck in 5.10 and still think the leader should never fall.
I had to layback portions of Ruby's Cafe during my redpoint, am I "gay"?
If you want to be a bigot, and hang out with other bigots, go to church, not the crags.
|
|
|
|
|
traddad
Mar 23, 2004, 2:55 PM
Post #24 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129
|
It's a an off-hands splitter that I wish I could lay back.
And as to your other question, it probably reflects general demographics. More of an assumption than a guess.
|
|
|
|
|
taualum23
Mar 23, 2004, 2:57 PM
Post #25 of 61
(7197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 2370
|
Nice traddad! "Desert corners are so Jewish." LOL. I know you were making a serious point, and one that I cannot possibly agree with more.
Really, when one uses the term "gay" to be a deragotory remark removed from the realm of actually referring to a person's sexual orientation, it shows them to be a trogloditic playground reject, not neccesarily a bigot.
Peace.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
