timpanogos
Mar 30, 2004, 12:14 AM
Post #1 of 1
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
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Well I went both ways on risk assessment yesterday – got on a super flaring and super expando crack.
I’m standing on about a #3 stopper that is a marginal placement – Next piece is about a 3” cam – as I start to test it – the flake opens – like a door – and the piece I’m standing on shifts. I bailed, not because of fall factor at that exact time, but realizing I need more expando experience on something a bit tamer (like a busy trade route) verses something that has likely only been climbed a few times in the last 10 years.
I promptly move over to my project – heads been working on the f2 potential all week. I make the choice – I’m willing to climb to failure – and damned if I did not. Took the biggest fall I’ve even done – a kind of factor 2 – kind of because it was 12’ over and about 8’ up (over the traversing ramp) so the dynamics of bouncing off the ramp and then doing the penji tumble for about 12’ ending up about 20’ below my anchor!
Once again, those ramps are spanking this wanna-be warrior!
Here are some pictures – hell I feel like a warrior!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...iewtopic.php?t=56123
I do believe this fall did help my head – hey the solo system works! Maybe a long sleeve shirt next time?
Chad
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