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mreardon
Apr 1, 2004, 3:32 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: (wohoo baby this is gonna be fun...) Why bolt it when you can toprope pretty much anyhitng 300 feet or less? I guess one obvious answer is, "How are you going to get the toprope up there?". -Jay
What's a rope?
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ipsofacto
Apr 1, 2004, 4:19 AM
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ipsofacto
Apr 1, 2004, 4:26 AM
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micronut
Apr 1, 2004, 4:37 AM
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I can just imagine him going for the throat on some lycra-clad wuss who couldn't make the stick clip.
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jackscoldsweat
Apr 1, 2004, 4:58 AM
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"Sport climbing is neither." — Found on a poster at the gendarme in Seneca rocks.
JCS
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andypro
Apr 1, 2004, 5:24 AM
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In reply to: no one spoke about the other part of my post, how can u truly "damage" rock, arent you just making it into a different climb?
I think the point of damage, when talking of blowing cams crumbling the rock around them or clean aid (which yes, can "damage" the rock) or nailing a route that was put up as a free climb is that it changes the route from the origional FA and thier vision for the route.
When talking of bolts, well...to each thier own. Without including retrobolting, and in my opinion, not ALL bolts are bad. The ones I hate to see are the ones that fall into a few categories:
Bolts that dont need to be there.
Bolts in wilderness settings that are neither for anchors in otherwise unprotectable stances (especially those which could be avoided by cutting a few meters off the pitch) or ones that were put up just because someone dind't want to stick out a slab or short unprotectable section (unless theres a serious chance of death...I'm not a big fan of X rated routes).
Uncamoflaged bolts (this doesn't count those at predominantly sport crags).
To me this lessens my experience, and I consider it damaging to the rock in that it takes away from it's pristine state that I like to experience. This is also the point in alot of places that have more weekend outdoorsy types as well. They're not climbers, and they dont want to go somewhere and see a bunch of shiny bolts all over a face. They're out there to get away from the man made world.
Every place a climber can go has it's own local ethics and mental directions, so it's going to vary place to place, and person to person. These are just my thoughts on the matter.
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casco
Apr 1, 2004, 5:24 AM
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In reply to: "Sport climbing is neither." — Found on a poster at the gendarme in Seneca rocks. JCS
Chris Sharma says it is... I´d rather trust Sharma, because he knows about climbing at least a bit more.
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a_guy_named_smith
Apr 1, 2004, 5:43 AM
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pffffffffffft
so what.
given the noted powers of cannibus to enhance credibility
because sharma probably hadn't smoked enough that day so we can discredit him as a good source.
and we know that the poster was high on the wall.
therefore the poster in the gendarme is a more reputable source.
and it still stands that sport climbing is neither
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micronut
Apr 1, 2004, 3:08 PM
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"Hang-doggoing is the disease, and I'm the cure" ..................from the old Lake Louise guidebook.
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action
Apr 1, 2004, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: p.s. you are a total idiot for falling on a suspect bolt...you dumb as s Climbs 11a on a top-rope...hmmm...yes, I should defer to your judgment in light of your non-existent climbing experience, certainly. When I need the advice of a moron, I'll PM you, okay? Until then... Why can't HE return so that I can insult him a second time. Perhaps one of you will stand in his stead? I'd do as much for you if given half the opportunity, friend.
i guess you have never jumped on a top rope...you are my hero...the fact remains that there are extremely many crappy bolts out there...that has nothing to do with climbing but every thing to do with being a quality engineer and recognizing all of the variables...anyway...keep falling on crappy stuff and we wont have to put up with your dumb as s. by the way...what do people from CANADA know....? nothing
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action
Apr 1, 2004, 4:10 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: "Sport climbing is neither." — Found on a poster at the gendarme in Seneca rocks. JCS Chris Sharma says it is... I´d rather trust Sharma, because he knows about climbing at least a bit more.
you are kidding me...sharma knows more than sherman and wilford? pass the pipe brah...i want what you are smokin' :D
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hardcore
Apr 1, 2004, 4:18 PM
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well here goes i'll take the bait.......After reading all the comments about this particular subject, i walked away from my computer annoyed, i find it particularly hard to express my feeling on this without generalizing, but it seems that this is the norm on this subject so i apologize before hand for generalizing but i'm pissed off. Every answer that bashes someone elses way of climbing is typically and american answer, OOOHHH i said it the dreaded insult of being a dumbass american... I climb trad, sport, aide whatever i feel like wherever i can and whenever i can. I surf and mountain bike, hike and do a myriad of other sports and it's always the same thing with you guys, always the same bullshit. "I'm better than you cause i trad climb, i'm better than you cause this is my beach, get off my trail, you don't look like me so i'm gonna bomb you country" It's the same american bullshit that makes everyone hate you cause you're american, people don't care if you're nice guy or gal all they see is that youre from the US of A. It's the same reason why you guys put Canadian flags on your backpacks when you travel. Yes to many routes are bolted when they don't need to be yes it looks like shit sometimes but come on, jump on some other banwagon, while you assfuck mother earth with tons of pollution and more human waste than some thirdworld countries with twice the popullation...Get over your selves and go fucking climb, and stop your bitching.........
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rrrADAM
Apr 1, 2004, 4:24 PM
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"Traddie, Sport Climber, Boulderer, etc..."
Just curious what I am... I do all three and even builder and climb at the gym. I enjoy Trad the most, but I do it all equally, and I've even done all three in the same day many times.
Labeling climbers is the problem, as it creates division, when we as climbers need unity in the face of access issues and the like.
It's like who's better, Army, Navy, Air Force, etc... They are all in the military, and in time of war, "brothers at arms" who watch each other's backs.
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ipsofacto
Apr 1, 2004, 4:30 PM
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robmcc
Apr 1, 2004, 4:33 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: "Sport climbing is neither." — Found on a poster at the gendarme in Seneca rocks. JCS Chris Sharma says it is... I´d rather trust Sharma, because he knows about climbing at least a bit more.
It wouldn't surprise me if that poster's been there longer than Sharma has been climbing. 8)
Rob
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action
Apr 1, 2004, 4:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: ...there are extremely many crappy bolts out there.. My God, I love you! Extremely many? How about greatestly many, severestly lots, or the perennial classic: drastically countless.
thank you...and, you are the best...you are the all knowing....the oracle...rc should have you on payroll. "ASK ipsofacto" yeah...you deserve your own forum. you are my hero! i bet everybody wishes they were just like you...i bet you have lots of friends too...or should we call them fans...you are the princess of CANADA...
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ipsofacto
Apr 1, 2004, 4:40 PM
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action
Apr 1, 2004, 4:50 PM
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In reply to: Hahahah...if this keeps up for much longer, we will become old friends.
you think...eh? :D
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action
Apr 1, 2004, 5:23 PM
Post #69 of 100
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In reply to: In reply to: "Sport climbing is neither." — Found on a poster at the gendarme in Seneca rocks. JCS Chris Sharma says it is... I´d rather trust Sharma, because he knows about climbing at least a bit more.
i just can't leave this one alone....I dont think sharma would even agree with this statement. having read thru' some of the recent threads, it is becoming clear to me that our climbing friends from the southern countries (mexico, costa rica, etc.) may not have taken the time to educate themselves in regards to the history (and ethics) of climbing. I do not mean this in a negative way...it is just an observation...it explains some of the recent comments i've read by our friends south of the border.
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ipsofacto
Apr 5, 2004, 11:44 PM
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akclimber
Apr 19, 2004, 5:47 AM
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Evidence :lol:
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brundige
Apr 30, 2004, 1:06 PM
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In reply to: well, in my opinion climbing is climbing
2 words style,ethics
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elvis
Apr 30, 2004, 1:53 PM
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Here is a quote from an article about some one really hardecore with a diferent way of looking at it all
He looked upon climbing as "an individual thing, not some kind of organized religion" He never hesitated to take on those whom he refered to as the "elite" of the climbing comunity and didn't mince words in his castigation of "these gentleman who in effect , presume to tell me how to do my thing
Maybe we need new visionaries to do there "thing" the way they want, and maybe it will piss off someone else but hey maybe this is progression?
Just a thought
Ps. you americans sure no how to win friends and influence people maybe you should look north at your strange neighbours more often.
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realization_83
May 9, 2004, 5:00 AM
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no matter which way you climb you can still damage the rock, could a trad piece chip the rock or scar it when you take a fall, especially if it rips out the rock completely because the rock breaks, i have also seen pieces of rock snap off while bouldering, sure bolts look ugly on the rock, but if they are camoflouged and used more effeciently the physical look of the rock wont seem different.
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dirtineye
May 9, 2004, 5:19 AM
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This thread produced by and for MORONS.
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