|
|
|
|
keithlester
Deleted
Mar 31, 2004, 5:38 PM
Post #76 of 85
(7945 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
In reply to: I do not post many replies, as most of the time people here use there common sense, but this one, someome has thrown common sense out the window.... The product states it is for aiding. The manafactur states it is for aid. Store owners state it for aid. I do not give a rats what the strengh rating on it is. It was design, built and made for aid use. Now there are people here who say, BS i have fallen on this many times. Well you are lucky then. Now lets say it did not hold and you decked. I bet you would be here crapping on how this gear did not hold and it shhould of blah blah... What if now some person places that gear on a trad route falls and then grounds and kills themself? are you will to take the responsibility for suggesting that it was ok to use on a trad fall? It is pretty simple. The company builds gear for a task for it to be used in. Any other use and you are trusting luck and nothing else.. So please carry on using it for trad if you think luck is on your side.... There is always another piece of gear you can use.
Quite right, Mark. I agree, its not a nice thought, somebody would take this advice on spec without working it out for themselves, that's what climbing safety is all about, taking responsibility for your own life. Nobody should take any post as gospel, the guy posting could be a BSing nutcase for all they know. :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
bb
Mar 31, 2004, 6:35 PM
Post #77 of 85
(7945 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2004
Posts: 33
|
Yeah, I took a solid 15 footer on a black alien. It held. It was in good granite. If the rock is good, stuff it in and go for it.
|
|
|
|
|
dorkmaster
Mar 31, 2004, 6:55 PM
Post #78 of 85
(7945 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 268
|
[quote="euroford"]In reply to: you can always double up the screamers....or triple...or quadruple...etc..hehe...not meaning to hijack the thread or anything, but after you add so many screamers in a chain, (not sure how many it would take, depends on peice) could you reduce the chance of pro failure to 0? :shock:
no, becouse screamers activate at 2kn, so no matter how many you use the piece is always subject that amount of force min.
quote]
oh okay, I read in Rock and Ice that you can use more than one in a chain to reduce that. I guess I read it wrong.
|
|
|
|
|
sspssp
Mar 31, 2004, 7:03 PM
Post #79 of 85
(7945 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731
|
Chaining them together won't change the fact that they activate at 2kn (or whatever the exact number is).
However, if you took a really long fall, then the screamer may totally activate (reach full length), while you are still falling at a high speed. After the screamer totally activates, the forces could then go above 2kn. This is what chaining them together would prevent. After one had totally activated, the next could start activating and still keep the load down to 2kn.
As it is, I am puzzled that such a short activation length for a single screamer can really do that much (it extends what, a foot or two?), but they seem to work.
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Mar 31, 2004, 9:51 PM
Post #80 of 85
(7945 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
by linking multiple screamers (in series) you have more total capacity for absorbing load. okay, so a screamer activates at 2kn and has a capacity to absorb 3-4 kn. so, if you took a 10kn (total) fall, the anchor would see 6 or 7kn. if you had doubled up on screamers the anchors would see 2 or 4kn.
i guess if you had three you would be guaranteed that only 2kn would reach the anchor, but you can't go less than that.
FYI, this is for standard screamers, zipper screamers activate at 2kn and can absorb 4-8kn and aid screams activate at 1.5kn and can absorb 1.5-2kn but only have a runner strength of 7kn.
|
|
|
|
|
dorkmaster
Mar 31, 2004, 10:10 PM
Post #81 of 85
(7945 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 268
|
my bad, thank you for clearing that up guys! 8)
|
|
|
|
|
mreardon
Apr 1, 2004, 3:41 AM
Post #82 of 85
(7945 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
|
I've taken 15 footers on blue aliens and they held just fine. Nothing else would work in those cracks. I've used black aliens but only taken small dynamic belay falls on them. I've used brass peanuts and taken nasty falls where the wires broke. I'll trust a black alien before I trust those peanuts, and a blue over a black, but sometimes you have no choice and something is always better than nothing.
|
|
|
|
|
david.yount
Deleted
Apr 1, 2004, 9:01 PM
Post #83 of 85
(7945 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
In reply to: There was a review not too long ago in one of the climbing mags that suggested sliders (lowe balls or whatever they are called now), would generally have a greater holding power than a similar sized micro cam. I would certainly believe it.
That being shared, I always place 2 pieces (Ballnutz, Zeros, Aliens, TCUs, HB Offsets, BD Micro Stoppers, Trango Brassies) when I’m using gear this small (unless the rock does not afford it, rarely).
In reply to: Interesting, Dan. I've always placed Aliens in preference to TCUs because I find my TCUs rotate as I climb above them. That's usually not important for the #1 or larger TCUs, but for the really small ones I would think that the rotation could ruin the placement. Do you find that the 0 and 00 TCUs rotate? Do I just need to use longer slings?
I cringe as I watch so many leaders clip their cams’ slings to the rope (or use a quickdraw) and the cam rotates as they pull up past their placement.
David.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Apr 1, 2004, 11:07 PM
Post #84 of 85
(7945 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: Am I the only climber that never uses quickdraws nor places pro above my visual review?... Of course sometimes I want pro and I'm not moving up any further and all I'm given is a placement way up overhead........
Looks like you answered your own question.
-Jay
|
|
|
|
|
climbhoser
Sep 15, 2004, 6:31 PM
Post #85 of 85
(7945 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2004
Posts: 210
|
RP's aren't supposedly for trad, either, but if it's between no pro and a black alien or an RP, I'll place the damned piece!
Alien cams are really soft metal...anytime I've fallen on them it affects them in ways it doesn't affect others.
climb on, and don't be afraid to run it out when you're in doubt!
|
|
|
|
|
|
