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drockclimb
Apr 1, 2004, 6:15 AM
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This especially goes out to east coasters, but everyone else please contribute...what's the best crack you have ever sunk your hands (or fingers, or body) into?
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studs
Apr 1, 2004, 9:14 AM
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Probably Love supreme in the Meadows.
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keithlester
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Apr 1, 2004, 2:05 PM
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Savage Slit, a 70m 5.8 :roll: offy in the Cairngorms in Scotland. 3 pitches of total fascination and scraped knuckles :twisted:
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michaelmay513
Apr 1, 2004, 2:32 PM
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Bloody Fingers at the City of Rock in Idaho
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crankenstein
Apr 1, 2004, 3:17 PM
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Undoubtedly the Exasperator at Squamish! Bloody Fingers is another very high quality crack though.
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rokshoxbkr19
Apr 1, 2004, 3:20 PM
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Well, a few come to ming:
Cherry Crack 5.8 out in Zion is just that, a fucking sweet ass cherry crack
Cynthia's Hand Job also out in Zion, but much more obscure, 5.10D of
gorgeous crack
And then out in Moab, at Potash Wall, there is this 80 ft. Flake, it gives you
the best hand jams and awesome position as you manipulate your
body around the flake and fly up, WOW, it was great.
Thanks for bringing back the memories!!!
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angry
Apr 1, 2004, 3:40 PM
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OK, I'm going to go against the grain and state the truth. Potash Road sucks, it's crowded, by climber, idiots, scouts, and college vans. You might get hit by a semi. The rock quality is not that great. The route quality is mediocre at best. Everything around it rules though. I am baffled as to why that place is so popular. If your excuse is because you've only got a few hours. You are a Moab n00b, there are a ton of low commitment single pitch routes of premier quality only minutes away - and no crowds.
Best Crack? Don't make me choose. Mr. Clean on Devils Tower is worth mentioning. (80% of the routes on Devils Tower might be the best though). How about Whine and Roses in Freemont. Man I don't know. It's just not on potash, I know that for sure.
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rokshoxbkr19
Apr 1, 2004, 3:45 PM
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I hear what you are saying about Potash, but I am telling you, and I have been around the country. This was a great crack climb brutha.
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j_from_the_307
Apr 1, 2004, 4:46 PM
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I'd have to say Nat's 3 Star Roof out at Vedauwoo. It's like the crackhouse, only on granite. Unfortunately it's only a boulder problem.
Avoiding saying anything about Indian Creek, I'd have to say Skull out at Vedauwoo as well. It's slightly overhanging as well, but the jams are bomber and its not as hard as it looks. Lots of fun.
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yanqui
Apr 1, 2004, 5:04 PM
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The runners up (in categories) are:
In the category of little-known 5.10 finger cracks we have:
(1) Cocaine Crack in Leavenworth
(2) Flying Dutchman in Little Cottonwood
and maybe
(3) Thin Slice in the City (which is probably well-known and actually might qualify as thin hands).
5.9 Thin Hands:
Coffin Crack in Little Cottonwood. Super aesthetic climb.
World Champion Good Crack, in the category of 5.10d bomber hands:
Lost Fingers in the Frey (Argentina, guys). Makes the 5.10 hand cracks of Indian Creek look silly and sad. Has it all: an exposed position in an overhanging dihedral two pitches up, bullet hard golden granite, bomber hand jams in a beautiful corner with dicey feet and two little roofs, followed by a powerful overhanging layback to a bomber stem rest, capped off by a juggy, overhanging finish. Wow. You just gotta do it. To up the excitement factor, reach the crack via the continuation of the dihedral below, which is a juggy, overhanging 11b pitch called Abrojos y Centellas.
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j_ung
Apr 1, 2004, 5:04 PM
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Speaking strictly about East Coast crack, I'll go with Shreaded Wheat at Rumbling Bald...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=25413
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rockinice
Apr 1, 2004, 5:31 PM
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New Yosemite is pretty friggin good for 5.9 hands--NRG
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killclimbz
Apr 1, 2004, 5:51 PM
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Mr Natural on the Apron at Yosemite has got to be my single pitch crack favorite.
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studs
Apr 2, 2004, 9:14 AM
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They dont call it Super Crack in the Gunks for nothing.
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cragmasterp
Apr 2, 2004, 12:45 PM
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Favorite local crack: Celibate Mallard, endless wall, NRG.
Triple S at Seneca should be mentioned.
In Moab, I would have to go with Ultimate hand crack, although Supercrack on the same buttress is quite pure. Generic crack is a sweet, sandbagged 5.9 in the same area.
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rockinice
Apr 2, 2004, 1:26 PM
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well if we're gettin into the valley----sons of yesterday!!
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goober
Apr 2, 2004, 3:32 PM
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East Coast: How about "Supercrack" at Shortoff in Linville Gorge!
West Coast area: About anything at Indian creek or Moab, ofcourse.
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camhead
Apr 2, 2004, 3:53 PM
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my personal favorite, for sustainance, diversity, and aesthetics is Spaghetti Western at Indian Creek. I just wish it were a tiny bit harder, but nonetheless, it stands out in my mind as the most beautiful I've ever sunk my hands into.
Honorable mention? damn. Anything alse at the Creek, "Fear of Flying" or "Top Choice" at Enchanted Rock, Texas, "Crack of Doom," City of Rocks, "Outer Limits" in Yosemite, "Phobos" in Tuolomne, "Capitol Roof" at in Capitol Reef, Utah.
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cracklover
Apr 2, 2004, 4:00 PM
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Incredible Hand Crack - Indian Creek. Nothing I've seen in New England has come anything close to it.
GO
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iclimbtoo
Apr 2, 2004, 4:03 PM
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The Bastille - Eldorado Canyon
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iltripp
Apr 2, 2004, 4:23 PM
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:twisted:
Since no one else has said, I'll go ahead and get it out there...
In reply to: what's the best crack you have ever sunk your hands (or fingers, or body) into?
My girlfriend's...
Now a real answer: I'm not sure if you're talking specifically about the quality of the crack, or the crack climb in general, but Bishop's Terrace has a fantastic crack and is a great route in general
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iclimbtoo
Apr 4, 2004, 9:44 PM
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Oh yeah...Classic Finger Crack...Boulder Canyon
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bvb
Apr 4, 2004, 11:39 PM
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In reply to: Probably Love supreme in the Meadows.
a love supreme is definately a contender, but if i had to pick a fave it'd be butterballs on the cookie, or agent orange in deerhorn valley, county planning commission (between escondido and rainbow), fish crack, or hear my train a coming (sentimental favorite).
or maybe dog's roof...or the cringe...or hangdog flyer...or -- hey, can we just do a top ten?
as for eastcoast cracks -- supercrack in the gunks, hands down. or maybe persistance.
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mackavus
Apr 5, 2004, 12:42 AM
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Two VERY nice cracks that I have been on...
El Crackitan - 5.9+
Coleman is a Faggot - 5.10c
Both at the Bellefonte Quarry
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