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Smallest pro youve fallen on thats held?
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mistymountainhop


Apr 2, 2004, 6:03 PM
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Smallest pro youve fallen on thats held?
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I see so many tiny trad placements on the market, I was thinking how i need to get some tiny pieces, but not for aid. I had to decide against getting some trango brassies just because even if i did place them i would be scared sh-tless to fall on them. As of right now the smallest thing i have fallen on has been a #1 ABC Huevo, theyre def. nice is my book, but the fall was only a couple feet. My friend was telling me how he fell on an Rp that ripped and was then nowhere to be found, like it either unclipped itself or just broke. the biner was still on the rope with no piece attached.

whats the longest yuou have fallen on a small piece that hasnt ripped?


robmcc


Apr 2, 2004, 6:06 PM
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I'm not going to win this one, but what the heck.

#1 camalot, 10 or so, 5 times in rapid succession.
#9 stopper, crappy placement, 35'

Not small pro, but the smallest I've fallen on. :P

Rob


danskiz


Apr 2, 2004, 6:07 PM
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15 feet onto a 6AN Metolius Astro nut. If your looking for brassies, I would check out the astro nuts, and definately HB offset brassies.


Partner rrrADAM


Apr 2, 2004, 6:07 PM
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Re: Smallest pro youve fallen on thats held? [In reply to]
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Me a #4 BD Stopper, from 8 feet above it (almost 20' with slack and stretch). Seen Paul (camhead) fall on a #3 out at Little Cottonwood Canyon. Took a 40 footer on a Yellow Alien, but almost everyone has a Yellow Alien story. :lol:


robmcc


Apr 2, 2004, 6:09 PM
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In reply to:
Took a 40 footer on a Yellow Alien, but almost everyone has a Yellow Alien story. :lol:

I don't even have a yellow alien. Hmm, maybe when the tax refund comes...

Rob


Partner rrrADAM


Apr 2, 2004, 6:14 PM
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Note-I have never pulled a top piece, other than one cam I knew was sh!t and immediately backed it up with a stopper below it, was pumped and pussed out and yelled take. Cam pulled, but stopper held. Like I said, I knew the cam was poopoo.


g
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Apr 2, 2004, 6:17 PM
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I too have fallin on a yellow alien, as I was trying to clip another yellow alien. It was only a little 12-15 footer though. After that, I went back up and repeated the same fall.


Partner coylec


Apr 2, 2004, 6:20 PM
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Took a short fall on a metolius 00. less than 5 feet.

coylec


curt


Apr 2, 2004, 6:22 PM
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I fell 20 feet onto a #2 RP in Yosemite and it held.

Curt


slavetogravity


Apr 2, 2004, 6:23 PM
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Number 2 trango brassie, the second smallest. Couldn’t believe it held. Scared the krap out of me, and I screamed like a banshee as I feel.


slobmonster


Apr 2, 2004, 6:30 PM
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#2 Wild Country Rock, 35 feet
13 cm ice screw, 40 feet


Partner tim


Apr 2, 2004, 6:33 PM
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#3 BD steel nut, 35' aid fall
#3 Zero, 9' (free) lead fall
red Lowe ball, 5', hook popped

I'm a bit of a wuss, as anyone who climbs with me can tell you, but there's somewhat of a reason for that. I started out full of piss and vinegar, a while back... then I broke some parts and reconsidered :-)

As far as micronuts, no contest, go for HB offsets first, BD Swedges second. I've taken a 12' swinging fall onto a #4 offset on lead, too. They hold just fine, provided you place them well, in good rock.


vegastradguy


Apr 2, 2004, 6:47 PM
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took a static daisy fall onto my blue alien. prolly only 6' or so...adj. daisy was at full length.


fuzzybrandon


Apr 2, 2004, 7:04 PM
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About a 30 footer onto a #2 HB brassy, a couple pieces ripped above it, I clobbered my belayer on the way past, that likely absorbed a good deal of force.


bellatoris


Apr 2, 2004, 7:32 PM
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00 metolius grey tcu, held the fall.....maybe a 10 footer. took a 20' on a yellow metolius and it held nice...but that was in the valley.
last week took a 25' onto a purple bd camalot, slightly overcammed (on purpose) and it did not budge. it was on the last move on the last pitch of cloud tower. the stone was a perfect but softer sandstone. the point is thin gear in soft stone is bold...caveat climber! big gear in a valley splitter is akin to 1/2 bolt.


brianthew


Apr 2, 2004, 7:33 PM
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30' onto a #0.5 Clog cam (orange). Bomber placement in quartzite, though.


grover


Apr 2, 2004, 7:44 PM
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20 footer on a #4 rp, placed sideways in good ole canadian limestone.

oh and it was my ONLY piece, with 20 feet of rope out. partner kicked out half the anchor holding the fall.

started smoking [tobbaco] again, minutes after that one.


incogneato


Apr 2, 2004, 8:35 PM
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i took countless whippers on my 00 friend last season, fallen on my #1 wild country stopper, lots on RPs, and took a 40 footer onto a yellow metolius on smith rock's basalt.


mesomorf


Apr 2, 2004, 8:37 PM
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25 feet onto a #1 Chouinard stopper.


braaaaaaaadley


Apr 2, 2004, 9:11 PM
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I've never fallen trad climbing, but I do own some trango brassies and they feel quite solid despite their size... especially the higher numbers. Can't beat the price either!


fredo


Apr 2, 2004, 9:20 PM
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Smallest Pro/Shortest fall (dumb luck) #2 WC Rock ~5-6 feet..chicken head popped off in my hand. Longest Fall ~15-18 feet #4 or #5 (can't remember which) Chiounard stopper, of course the juniper tree I went through absorbed some of the fall :lol: Don't have a Yellow Alien story yet, but I plan on using it a bunch tomorrow so mayyyyyybeee


gunked


Apr 2, 2004, 9:44 PM
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short fall (4 or 5 feet) onto #3 HB brassie behind a loose flake. :shock: Good thing it held. The fall potential was HUGE (multiple ledge 40+ feet :angel: ) if it blew. I don't take stupid chances like that anymore! Well.....very rarely!!! :?

Fallen on the purple metolius and the blue alien both with 10 to 15 footers.

-Jason :D


grog


Apr 3, 2004, 12:01 AM
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I took fell 4 feet onto a tied off knifeblade (with 10 ft of rope out) after i pulled a block off with a hook which cut the rope and almost decappitated my belayer on a "C2"; Dont trust ratings. :D


hugepedro


Apr 3, 2004, 1:04 AM
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When are you kids gonna learn. It's not the size of the piece, but the quality of the placement that matters.

Having said that, and having lived in Texas, I'll also say: bigger is always better.

1000 feet. Fall was eventually arrested with a Stubai ice axe.


reno


Apr 3, 2004, 7:45 AM
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25 feet above a 0.5 WC Friend... it held.

Also went 16 feet onto a #7 BD Stopper.

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