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da5id
Apr 3, 2004, 4:57 AM
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hey,
i'm looking for info on climbing in acadia national park, or anywhere on the island really. i'm thinking about taking a trip up there mainly for hiking this summer, but i'd love to check out the climbing up there as well. so what can you tell me about it? sport? trad? hard? easy? i was thinking about camping at blackwoods, because i stayed there once before and enjoyed it. any other ideas about where to camp? any info at all will be much appreciated, thanks.
-brian
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da5id
Apr 3, 2004, 5:19 PM
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bump
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k2exp2010
Apr 3, 2004, 5:44 PM
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The best thing for you to do is talk to the folks at Acadia Mountain Guides:
http://www.acadiamountainguides.com/
They were really nice at answering questions about the climbing.
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dorkmaster
Apr 3, 2004, 5:59 PM
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Well, I go to acadia ocasionally. There is some great sea side top-roping at Otter Cliffs. There is a range of easy to hard stuff at otter. They have anchors and stuff at the cliff already, but bring some gear in case you cant use one for some reason. I climbed once with the Acadia Mountain Guides, they are awesome people. If you dont have a partner or a belay slave think about using the guide service. They will set all the anchors, and belay and everything, all you have to do is climb. :D I would look into the book "Rock Climbing In New England" (I think thats what it is called) That should have all the cliffs and everything in Acadia. If you want some good sport or trad routes, take a drive to Clifton one day. It is about 2 hours away, and I bielive that it is in the Route Listings. Check it out!!!
Have a great safe trip!
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naitch
Apr 3, 2004, 6:01 PM
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Get "Acadia: A Climber's Guide" by Jeff Butterfield. It's an excellent climbing guide. Most of the climbs are either top rope or trad. There is very little sport climbing, there is the odd climb or two in a couple of the less popular areas that are bolted. The greatest number of climbs are in the 5.10-5.11 range, however there are also a good number of 5.7-5.9 climbs. There is a lesser number of 5.6 and below climbs. And there are a few in the 5.12-5.13 range. It 's a goregous area to climb at - absolutely beautiful. The most popular places are Otter Cliffs on the ocean that is mainly top roping, and the Precipice which is a mulitpitch (2-3) trad climbing area that is a bit removed from the ocean but still a good view of it from the tops of the climbs. Both of these can be a bit crowded at the peak of the summer season - especially Otter Cliffs.
Less crowded but great areas to climb are Great Head (about a half hour hike to get to - but still next to the ocean) and Canada Cliffs that is near Echo Lake.
There are many other campgrounds (private) that are good also - some have showers right there. We have stayed at Mt Desert Campgound in the center of the island on Somes Sound. It's a bit removed from all the hubub and nice. It's also removed from the most popular climbing areas though just a short distance from Canada Cliffs at Echo Lake. It's probaby a bit more in cost but has great (pay) showers right there. It's a beautiful campground that is a bit spread out and more scenic than Blackwoods (reservations are a must in the middle of July and August).
Hope this helps!
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hstewart
Apr 3, 2004, 6:02 PM
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Acadia has some fantastic climbing...
Otter Cliffs is all toproping (and the most popular area). You have to lower down till your toes are in the ocean. The Great Head area is fantastic, and is mostly trad (if i remember correctly), though i think there are a few bolts here an there. You can, however, toprope at least a few of the routes, if not all. Make sure you get a tide chart if you're climbing in either of these areas....people have gotten stuck (and very wet) because they haven't planned well.
Set back further, but with nice views of the ocean after topping out, is the Precipice area, which is mostly trad with a few bolts mixed in. The taller part of the cliff offers a few 2-pitch routes.
Pick up a copy of Acadia: A Climber's Guide by Jeff Butterfield. It's the most comprehensive book for the area.
Blackwoods is great. That's where I've always stayed. With the showers right at the end of the road you can't beat it.
Have a great time.
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hstewart
Apr 3, 2004, 6:09 PM
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damn Craig....that was a fast post! :wink:
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naitch
Apr 3, 2004, 6:39 PM
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Hey Holly,
If your liv'n in Boulder why would you want to go to Acadia?! ;-)
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hstewart
Apr 4, 2004, 12:03 AM
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In reply to: Hey Holly, If your liv'n in Boulder why would you want to go to Acadia?!
ahhhh....'twas not me who requested info on acadia. i just supplied it.
yes, no reason to leave colorado for acadia. i have plenty to keep me occupied here. but i used to live in maine and have spent some time climbing in acadia. have you ever done the "non-technical climb" (which is more like an intense hike, but i think part of it may be fifth class) on Precipice...the one with all the ladders and rails? I can't remember the name of it, but I remember it being a blast, and a nice warm-up before climbing.
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k2exp2010
Apr 4, 2004, 12:27 AM
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Holly,
I've done that climb up the Precipice Trail with the bolted ladders. And, you're right - it's a good warm up! In fact, it may be a good introduction for beginners.
Have you ever tried it without the ladders?
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littlebilly
Apr 4, 2004, 12:57 AM
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I’m from Acadia and this is the only place I’ve climbed, so I don't know how it compares with whet you're used to but it is said to be "world class." If you want info don't go to Acadia Climbing School, they are the worst people I’ve seen for climbing guides, and the owner...a piece of work. I recommend the experienced and expert advice of the Atlantic Climbing School (acadiaclimbing.com, not currently up) and the guide book Acadia: a climber's guide by Jeff Butterfield.
As for places to go: otter cliffs, the best-known cliff, are over the ocean. This is 30 to 60 feet of beautiful rock above tidal zone ledges. High tide and storms put the area out of commission, but time it right and it's one of the best places. It’s a five-minute walk from the otter cliffs parking lot (to the left when facing the ocean). All the climbs are top roped and belayed preferably from the top if you have a GriGri or equivalent piece, or from the bottom. Climbs range from 5.3 - 5.12
The precipice is another well-used place. A little ways after the precipice parking lot there is a dirt trail into the talus slope. It is protocol to wear a helmet after going past the sign; rock falls are semi-common especially in the spring. This is mostly trad. on close to vertical slabs and walls. There are some great routes and always a great view from the top. This area is referred to as The South Wall. Climbs range from 5.4 – 5.12.
There less popular places are:
· South Bubble Mountain. Great view, hot, slabby. 5.3 – 5.10
· Great head. Sea cliff, 80 feet, bit scary, never climbed there my self.
5.4 – 5.12
· Eagles crag, wooded crag, and sharp rocks at the bottom. 5.9+ - 5.12
· Canada cliffs. Wooded area. Never seen it but I guess it’s good.
· 5.7 – 5.13a
If you want more info see Atlantic or get their guidebook ($20 but worth it)
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hstewart
Apr 4, 2004, 1:16 AM
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damn dave! those are some gorgeous pics. i do miss that place. :(
In reply to: Holly, I've done that climb up the Precipice Trail with the bolted ladders. And, you're right - it's a good warm up! In fact, it may be a good introduction for beginners. Have you ever tried it without the ladders?
never tried it without the ladders...but will have to give it a whirl next time i'm back east.
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zozo
Apr 4, 2004, 1:20 AM
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I lived on Swans Island for two years when I was like 3 to 4 years old. It was an amazing place to spend those years. Acadia and the down east region are one of the most truly haunted places I have ever been to. I think the desert and the down east coast are the only two places that "Feel" like that.
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naitch
Apr 4, 2004, 1:29 AM
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Holly,
Damn, sounds like you've had the good fortune of iivning two great places. My son and I actually plan on taking a short cut to Acadia this summer via Boulder (I have a brother in Montana! ;-) when we do our road trip.
Yeah, I've done that trail/hike/climb whatever you want to call it, also. It's great. There is a similar one on the climb up the trail to the Beehive across from Sand Beach. I took my kids on it when the youngest was 3 or 4. Maybe thats what put climbing in his blood!
The stainless stell rails/staples remind me of the Via Ferrata that we've done at Nelson Rocks Preserve in WV. It's quit a bit more extensive than the bit in Acadia and you have to use a harness and a lanyard to clip in to a stainless cable for protection. It's provides a way that non-climbers can experience a little of what it's like to climb. It goes for about 3/4 of a mile climbing and traversing. Part of it is a 100 foot overhung climb just hanging onto and climbing the steel bars. It's fairly intense for the non-climber.
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hstewart
Apr 4, 2004, 1:35 AM
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In reply to: Damn, sounds like you've had the good fortune lived two great places. My son and I actually plan on taking a short cut to Acadia this summer via Boulder (I have a brother in Montana! when we do our road trip.
indeed. i feel quite fortunate. though i miss the ocean, it's pretty amazing here. we should definitley climb together if you guys make it to boulder this summer. give me a shout.
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dorkmaster
Apr 4, 2004, 1:45 AM
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In reply to: Yeah, I've done that trail/hike/climb whatever you want to call it, also. It's great. There is a similar one on the climb up the trail to the Beehive across from Sand Beach. I took my kids on it when the youngest was 3 or 4. Maybe thats what put climbing in his blood! |
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naitch
Apr 4, 2004, 2:04 AM
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In reply to: indeed. i feel quite fortunate. though i miss the ocean, it's pretty amazing here. we should definitley climb together if you guys make it to boulder this summer. give me a shout.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. It would be great to have someone to climb with who knows the area.
Now back to our regularly scheduled program on climbing in Acadia...
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maineman
Apr 4, 2004, 5:39 PM
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Acadia is great but don't overlook Clifton just an hour away. High quality granite face climbing of all varieties :!: -Maineman
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hstewart
Apr 6, 2004, 2:45 AM
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In reply to: Acadia is great but don't overlook Clifton just an hour away. High quality granite face climbing of all varieties -Maineman
Clifton is great - just don't expect to get on any sport routes unless your climbing 5.11.
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munckee
Apr 6, 2004, 4:01 AM
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I spent two summers ago guiding in acadia. It was phenomenal to say the least. Otter cliffs is most definitely worth hitting for a day or two at least, but IMO the precipice is where it's at for smaller parties. I spent most of my time at otter with big groups of beginners. It's one of the most unbelievable places I've ever climbed. The view is incredible and it's a really comfortable place to climb once you pick up on the nuances of the cliff, but it's almost always busy! Get out there early or later in the evening though and you should be able to get on anything that tickles your fancy.
The precipice is a pretty incredible area and the views above the trees are excellent. Unfortunately I only made it out there a couple of times.
Great Head is pretty nice, but the climbing is definitely harder and the approach is longer (by long I mean a whopping 30 minutes).
I also climbed a couple of times in a different area that was inland a little and above a lake, but I can't remember the name of the place off hand.
Butterfield's book is definitely the best guidebook and is very comprehensive. In fact, you're likely to run into Jeff guiding in the park. Another guide (different company from Jeff) is Alden (Strong I think was his last name). Tall guy with a bit of a fro. One of the nicest guides I've ever met in my life. He went out of his way to help me out and show me a few areas in the park. He's on Otter pretty often with small groups and he'll be more than happy to give you some info if you run into him.
Feel free to PM me if you have a specific question.
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naitch
Apr 6, 2004, 10:05 AM
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My son and I know Alden from running into him climbing the last couple of summers. He is a great guy and knows the climbing in the park well. A good source of great advice and a down right nice friendly guy.
A couple years ago before we really knew him, I had ordered an old pair of 5.10 tennies that I found on the internet. It turned out that it was Acadia Mt. Guides shop that was selling them. I ordered them but they wee too small so I returned them. That was in the winter a couple of years ago. The next summer I happened to wander into their shop and got to talking to him and when I said my name he remembered that I was the one who had ordered the shoes. Great memory.
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aikimac
Apr 6, 2004, 1:09 PM
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In reply to: If you want info don't go to Acadia Climbing School, they are the worst people I’ve seen for climbing guides, and the owner...a piece of work] |
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oaktownrob
Apr 14, 2004, 3:48 AM
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I'll be in Maine in mid-June with my girlfriend and was thinking of heading to Otter Cliffs for a day to get in a little climbing (family obligations the rest of the time). If I stick with top-roping can I get away with just bringing slings and biners for anchors or do I need to lug the rack cross country?
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hstewart
Apr 14, 2004, 4:05 AM
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you can toprope a lot of the easier climbs on otter cliffs off the big staples, but there are some pretty sweet routes in the amphetheater area that require gear anchors.
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