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braaaaaaaadley
Apr 5, 2004, 1:58 AM
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 576
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The other day I descovered a 30+ ft. waterfall down the road next to a local crag... and I thought "that will freeze in the winter" :D , which naturally means more climbing for me. I know how to setup a tr anchor (duh) and there are trees present for my anchors. Naturally, I have a few questions about this sport...
(1) Am I stupid for attempting to do this in VA?
(2) Can I use my leather or plastic tele boots with crampons?
(3) Any reccomendations on innexpensive crampons/tools? What type of tools should I buy (there are so many to choose from)?
(4) Is it safe for two climbers who have lots of rock expierence to take up tr ice climbing without instruction if they use common sense?
thanks!
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rendog
Apr 5, 2004, 2:37 AM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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As for doing it in VA i ahve no idea
teleboots...you can probably get away with it if you have to
inexpensive tools and crampons, just try to rent what ever you can or beg / borrow the rest
as for the last question... Honestly that's how my partner and I got into it 8 years ago and I haven't looked back since. sure some things you're going to need to be told (v-threads, technique etc), but fot the most part, give it a try man.
the first ice clim either one of us had done was a 280m WI4 in lake louise AB. we got our asses kicked so bad but we went back for more and more.
have fun giving it a try, just wait for the conditions though. you'll know, if not ask
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braaaaaaaadley
Apr 5, 2004, 4:07 PM
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
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Another question to add to the list... assuming I use my beefy leather tele boots, should I get step in crampons or the strap on kind? What are the pro's and cons of each type?
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 5, 2004, 4:34 PM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
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Telle boots suck for Ice climbing. Try to get your hands on some real leather mountainereing boots. It will probably be verry frustrateing to try and be an ice climber in VA but stranger things have happened. You will probobly end up soloing a lot if you really get the Ice bug so good boots and crampons are a must. Cheap tooze are readily available on the net just go seacrching. I recomend Ocean Pacific Venoms in 50cm length for absolute cheap tool!! Black dome had them for $75 bucks a pop. Also a very climable tool. I use one as a back up on long climbs and have done a bit of bouldering/soloing with them and was impressed for the money$$$
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skypilot
Apr 5, 2004, 5:29 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2004
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I get really help you out....I live in Colorado. Just keep in mind that what some people consider good behoavior on ice may be a costly habit to your life.
Paul Petzyl once said, "There are old climbers, There are bold climbers, but you will never find a bold old climber."
For top Roping you should be OK. Just make sure that the ice is good ice and that the sun is not hitting the climb, if it is hit it in the morning. Study techniques so you know how to properly use your crampons, take your tools out without break your picks (by wiggling side to side), etc..
Keep in mind that you are climbing with sharp tools, screws, and crampons. Make sure to wear a helmet. If you lead, try not to fall....the screws are strong but will the ice hold them in? Falling on top rope can still injure you if your are not careful. Last year a gentleman fell off an easy ice route outside of Ouray, CO after soloing up a gully to the base of the actual route which is not that difficult either. While he set his pack down, his poons became unstable and he fell 600+ feet and got pretty mangled up. He was an experienced climber.
Rock Experience defintely helps. Although, the techniques of body kinetics are different. On rock heels up, on ice heels down to allow the secod set of points of the crampons to grab the ice. Use the monkey hang technique when climbing with your tools.
I love ice climbing, more than climbing rock, but no matter what just be safe....know when to go home. If you have to leave gear, do so...sometimes the conditions aren't right for V-threads or Boulards, leave some gear behind....you can buy more....
E-mail me sometime and I can answer any specific questions and even help you with gear.
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