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oldandintheway
Apr 6, 2004, 4:07 AM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2002
Posts: 2450
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Which is it? Come on, fess up. How do you plan the gear sling for a day at the crags? Presume you haven't been to the spot but have researched it. Perhaps it's well known. Two pitchs max, not bolted, moderate pro ops. Do you toss in some basics/old reliable/always use kinda hardware and runners, do you go with recommendations from others (friends, guidebooks) or do you tote a big wall rack that would be the envy of everyone at Camp 6? 8) No mocking allowed.
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cjstudent
Apr 6, 2004, 4:14 AM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
Posts: 369
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I'm from NC. New trad leader also, been leading since 11-03 So if this is a route that i have no idea about, usually I'll take a gander from the ground to see what the pro looks like. If it looks obvious like it is a certain kind of cam, I'll concentrate in that area. But I'll usually also take some of the other sizes also If its a climb that i think will take everything i usually take a full set of cams from (BD sized) from .1 up to #3 with doubles in the most used sizes, .75, 1, 2 Also a full set of nuts and the smallest 3 tri-cams. then the normal...lots of slings, biners, etc etc
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skerry00
Apr 6, 2004, 4:16 AM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2002
Posts: 33
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I would say it depends on the hike and how hard I intend on climbing that day. But I'd rather be safe than sorry, probably bring more than I need.
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jumpingrock
Apr 6, 2004, 4:56 AM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 5692
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Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it?
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swede
Apr 6, 2004, 6:10 AM
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Registered: Dec 1, 2003
Posts: 133
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I normally bring everything exept my 4.5 Camalot and small hexes. This will be my third year, so I am still trying to learn new ways to use different pro. It doesnīt matter much that I carry a too heavy load - I just consider it strength training. I have however noted an inclination to leave behind gear I donīt think I will need for specific climbs, so I guess it is changing.
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njari
Apr 6, 2004, 6:14 AM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 160
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I like to be prepared, and I'll sew up a hard line if it gives me the chance to push myself. I usually end up with 25% to 45% of my rack left. I feel like I brought the perfect rack when I'm left with <20% of my gear.
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smithclimber
Apr 6, 2004, 6:24 AM
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Registered: Feb 15, 2002
Posts: 338
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Unless I have specific knowledge that dictates I take additional pieces (i.e. many tiny pieces or very large cams, etc.) I take pretty much the same rack on every route regardless of whether it's 75 feet or 750 feet. That rack consists of 1 to 1.5 sets of BD stoppers, 1 of each Alien from black through yellow, double cams from #.3 Camalots up to #2 Camalots, and one #3 Camalot. Note: since the green Alien is the same as the #.3 Camalots (and the yellow Alien is the same as the #.4 Camalots), I end up essentially having triples on these critical fingercrack size pieces. I almost always put the #3.5 Camalot in my pack but I never take it on a route unless I know that I need it. The #4 Camalot never even goes in the pack unless I know I'm going out to a route that will need it. By the way, you shouldn't need to take any more gear just because you are doing more pitches. After all, you are only climbing them one at a time (unless you are simul-climbing) so more pitches need not = more gear (unless you are going to leave tons of gear due to retreat).
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jackscoldsweat
Apr 6, 2004, 7:59 AM
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Registered: Jun 18, 2003
Posts: 380
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When I hear the word crag, I think of short approach times. I also think larger crowds. This could mean the route I intend to do, may or may not be open. Therefore, I opt to bring more gear with the idea of jumping on an open route possibly needing "big gear". It's the long approach and back country climbs which inspire light packs. JCS
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