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whatsupdoc


Apr 8, 2004, 4:17 PM
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vegastradguy


Apr 8, 2004, 4:36 PM
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webolette w/ locker (the webolette is WAY lighter and more compact than the cordlette) + 8 spare biners (for both anchor and pitch).

i also carry gloves/prusik kit on the back of my harness, plus 2 spare lockers as well.


Partner euroford


Apr 8, 2004, 6:13 PM
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a cordollete, some runners and some lockers takes care of anything i've run into.


andypro


Apr 8, 2004, 7:13 PM
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Hmm....I just have a cordalette and a big locker (OP Jake). The rest is already racked for leading.


tedc


Apr 9, 2004, 9:11 AM
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Sounds like you are carying about 8 lockers up a trad pitch.

Lighten up :wink: in more than one sense of the word.


gds


Apr 9, 2004, 9:44 AM
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I ususally carry 2 cordolettes. Beside being great for anchors they are pretty versatile in self rescue situations and one can always be cut (they're pretty cheap) up to use as prussiks, extra slings, whatever. I also like having a couple of double length runners somewhere with me. Great for extending pieces, tying off natural pro and for quick anchors as well.
I like the web o lettes but use them mostly for TR anchors as I don't think they have the versatilty of a cordolette.


thegreytradster


Apr 9, 2004, 2:08 PM
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Every leader comes equiped with a universal shock absorbing one. It's called, "the rope" Learn how to be creative with it. Tie knots, clove hitches, two loop figure eights, three loop bowlines.

I carry a cordolette, but it is the system of last resort for an anchor of equalized crap when required, or to sling the huge bomber block, and the aforementioned stock of bail cordage. Most of the time no more than a single double length sling and the rope is adequate to build a bomber anchor.

Throw the daisy away unless you want to make a big red spot at the base of a route. (human funkness device). It's a usefull aid climbing tool but has no place in a trad anchor.


Partner rrrADAM


Apr 9, 2004, 2:11 PM
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rrrADAM moved this thread from Gear Heads to Trad Climbing.


ctclimbz


Apr 9, 2004, 3:44 PM
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In reply to:
webolette w/ locker (the webolette is WAY lighter and more compact than the cordlette)

I completely agree with this. I've switched to a webolette after years of using a cordalette, and find it to be much easier to handle, and much less bulky. This, a locker, and an extra biner or two is all I take for anchors.


keithlester
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Apr 10, 2004, 1:27 PM
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A medium and a long sling, each with a locker, one of which is pear shaped, for munter if required. I dont usually use a munter, but you never know when you might need to, dropped gear, (yours or your seconds)

I usually build and equalise anchor system with the ropes, if two bits of bomber gear, one with each rope, Sometimes I use a sling to equalise poor gear. With the long sling (8 foot) you can equalise 3 bits of gear quite easily.

I expect my partner to have the same, for building the next belay, plus a short sling for tethering to the belay if needed, too. Otherwise I carry two sets of the above. :)

I dont use single rope technique, but I would probably use a cordalette or something similar if I did. I have never seen a daisy chain, dont know how they are used, would like somebody to explain it if you like. :?


andypro


Apr 10, 2004, 1:40 PM
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I have never seen a daisy chain, dont know how they are used, would like somebody to explain it if you like. :?

A daisy is a length of webbing, straight on one side, and sewn into loops or pockets on the other side. Sporties use them for anchoring to the chains and rethreading the rope. Problem with them is the loops are only rated to like 2kn or so, and they only have full strength from end loop to end loop. Using them to equalize an anchor that could actually take a fall is very very bad, as the pockets will msot likely rip out and cause all kinds of mayhem.

Beyond anchoring, they're used in aid climbing, bu I wont get into all that here.


c_kryll


Apr 10, 2004, 1:52 PM
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I'm guilty of carrying too much extra crap when I climb but that's usually because I'm guiding and I like having the extra crap for those "just in case" episodes with my clients.

On two rescue biners (both lockers) I carry the following: 1 cordalette, 2 24" runners, 1 tibloc, 1 micro-ascender, 1 prussik (kliemheist ((sp?))), 1 mini-knife. That and proper usage of the Munter-Mule will probably get me out of almost any situation.

Chris


keithlester
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Apr 10, 2004, 2:17 PM
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I have never seen a daisy chain, dont know how they are used, would like somebody to explain it if you like. :?

A daisy is a length of webbing, straight on one side, and sewn into loops or pockets on the other side. .


Thanks Andy. I dont think I'll be going down that road then. :D


strider


Apr 10, 2004, 3:14 PM
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My anchor rack consists of :
(5) lockers, daisy chained
(1) 20' cord, daisy chained
(2) double-shoulder length slings, daisy chained

I always carry two prussik cords made out of tech cord, but I triple them up as trad draws and always use them last or not at all. That way they can serve a purpose if needed and aren't just taking up room. The double-shoulder length slings will also be used as draws if I feel the situation warrants it. I also have a Met. Adj. Daisy for clipping in to anchors and I always back it up with a loop of the rope clove hitched to one of the lockers.

This has worked for me so far. It's kinda heavy because of the lockers, but I bought them for anchor building and the extra security of locked gates is nice. When I remember to lock them =)
Remember though that flexibility and adaptability are essential, and you should be ready for anything if you are venturing into unkown territory.

-n


madmax


Apr 10, 2004, 5:08 PM
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Ditch the cordelette or webolette or any-"olette." The rope is the most bomber dynamic piece of gear you have; use it.


tahoe_rock_master


Apr 10, 2004, 5:49 PM
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. Most of the time no more than a single double length sling and the rope is adequate to build a bomber anchor.


Well said :D :D


Matt


keithlester
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Apr 11, 2004, 1:49 AM
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Ditch the cordelette or webolette or any-"olette." The rope is the most bomber dynamic piece of gear you have; use it.


The only disadvantage I can see to this is if you do a really long pitch, and then have to build a complicated anchor, with spaced out gear or poor pieces equalised, you can actually run out of rope. Dont laugh, it actually happens when you are adventure tradding (new routing). Then the slings or cordalettes come in very handy.

I had one belay to build at almost the full length of my ropes, where I had to untie from the ropes at the anchors about twenty feet above the belay ledge, and descend down one rope to the ledge, tie on to both ropes with a short and a long prussic. and shout alot because it was very windy. :cry:

All of the above and more is why trad is such an absorbing and satisfying game, and why pushing numbers is less important to trad climbers than to sport climbers, no disrespect, I do both. :)


reno


Apr 11, 2004, 9:30 AM
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In reply to:
Ditch the cordelette or webolette or any-"olette." The rope is the most bomber dynamic piece of gear you have; use it.

The only disadvantage I can see to this is if you do a really long pitch, and then have to build a complicated anchor, with spaced out gear or poor pieces equalised, you can actually run out of rope. Dont laugh, it actually happens when you are adventure tradding (new routing). Then the slings or cordalettes come in very handy.

Keith is correct here. While a rope-based anchor may work in many situations, I like having a cordlette (I carry two, by the way,) for the widely spaced pro, anchors that have odd angles (i.e. one horizontal crack, one vertical crack, and a diagonal crack,) or other situations where using the rope can be cumbersome.

I do worry about the direction of the load, should the leader fall on the next pitch, and that can be a complication, but it's a "Pros vs. Cons" thing.

If the anchor is two well-established bolts at a popular crag, I'm using the rope (Fig-8 on bight to one bolt, clove to the other,) but in some underdeveloped areas, I like my cordlette. YMMV.


Partner coylec


Apr 11, 2004, 10:56 AM
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Another possible drawback of using the rope is when you doing multipitch and keeping the same leader. If you're switching leads, no problem, but if one leader is doing all the pitches, you're going to have both leader and second untying from the rope and switching ends at each belay. This requires having more stuff to secure the individual to the belay station.


munckee


Apr 11, 2004, 11:17 AM
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I'd like to hear more experiences with the web-o-lette. I'm considering picking one or two up for a trip this summer.


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