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slablizard
Apr 7, 2004, 5:31 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
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Hey all
We're heading to Smith Rock in the first half of June, I'm looking for a list of nice, technical 11a to ds to waste my fingers on (sport climbs). Any suggestion?
Also, any good advice on what guidebook is best?
Thanks!
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jkarns
Apr 7, 2004, 5:38 PM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2003
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First..The only guide is the Alan Watts Guide. Get it along with the pink supplement from Redpoint...
Good elevens (some people will call this list generic, but the ARE good!)
Magic Light
Overboard
Vomit Launch
Ring of Fire
Blue Light Special
Toxic
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slablizard
Apr 7, 2004, 5:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
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thanks!
What's redopint? you have a link?
NEVERMIND
Just bought it on Amazon :P
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mountainstyle
Apr 7, 2004, 6:11 PM
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Registered: Jan 14, 2004
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Have fun out at Smith. I don't think Red Point Climbers Supply has a web page, but you will see it, it is on the corner of Hwy 97 and Smith Rock Way. You have to drive by it to get to the rocks. It will be the first store on your left as soon as you turn off the hwy. You can stop there and ask directions to the "grasslands" or "skull hollow" where there is free camping and toilets. There is also a bivy site right next to the rocks, this costs $4.00 a person, has showers/tolilets, and includes the $3.oo parking pass cost to park at the top of the trail head.
Also, Ring of Fire is a rad route... give it a try!
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rckjck12a
Apr 10, 2004, 4:03 PM
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Registered: Mar 11, 2004
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If you are going to Smith there are lots of classics. If you are ther for a weekend the classics will be busy. Here are a few other routes that are good in that range.
Vomit Launch 11b- Cocaine gully ****
John gault line 11b- Headless horseman ***
The strugle within 11a- Phoinex area ***
Heresy 11a- **
Moons of pluto 10d ****
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grog
Apr 10, 2004, 6:35 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2003
Posts: 48
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Dont forget to climb Monkey Face, easiest way up is the Pioneer Route. Dont let the grade deter you, its way fun. Also, if you're fingers are trashed, go check out the basalt, I found some of the sport routes a bit easier on the skin.
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climbingstud
Apr 12, 2004, 6:25 AM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2001
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How much of the Rimrock is bolted now? last time i was there i couldnt find much at my level, i'm below .11's so maybe thats why :?
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grog
Apr 12, 2004, 6:32 AM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2003
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We climbed at the very end of the rimrock on the parking lot side a year ago november, and there were a couple of 10s, 11s, and some 12's a bit further down. I dont remember the names or anything, i just know they were at the very end of the climbable rock.
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