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What is the hardest place to out protection
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redzit


Apr 12, 2002, 2:47 PM
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What is the hardest place to out protection
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i was just woundering what everyone though was the hard place to put in pro. i don't mean you stance or body position. what i mean is what is the accual rock like that makes it difficult to place pro on it.
i realize, and so should everyone else, that a flat chalk boad like face is obviously the hardest
but what do the rest of you think.


graniteboy


Apr 12, 2002, 4:51 PM
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I'm gonna hafta say that cool shale in the canadian rockies. sometimes, if it's cold enough, you can spit on the layers of shale to make them stick together better so they actually hold the pro till after you've gotten past it.
Yup.


joemor


Apr 14, 2002, 2:52 AM
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sand... damn its hard to get a solid placement in those damn dunes, everything i try zippers right on out, and i end up with nothing more than an eyefull of sand.


redzit


Apr 16, 2002, 5:32 AM
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Joe, the reason i ask is i am into not only making gear but inventing it too. now everything i make is strickly experimental until i can get an ok from an engineer.
i was woundering if you have a problem with the pro damaging the sand stone. seeing ass you could already be ripping sand out anyways, i don;t think it would be that bad.
please answer me and ask you friends too.
thanx


joemor


Apr 16, 2002, 8:36 PM
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sorry i was being sarcastic.......
now i see where u are comming from i would have to say shallow cracks these are the placements that i feel most dodgy about trusting, but i think most people do.

joe


traddaddy


Apr 18, 2002, 6:17 AM
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Shallow, FLARING cracks!


joemor


Apr 18, 2002, 3:50 PM
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true, tradddddaddy

damn flaring shallow cracks

joe


compclimber


Apr 18, 2002, 4:28 PM
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Top three, in no apparent order.

Shallow-Flaring cracks, Eldorado-esque pods and pockets, and BIG offwidths.


beyond_gravity


Apr 18, 2002, 4:43 PM
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Blank Expando Flake...

And Jono, Sand Dunes are Ass easy to protect! Use a snow Fluke.


traddaddy


Apr 19, 2002, 7:56 AM
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Offwidths kinda bothered me too until I saw the #6 Blackdiamond Camalot. Have you seen the size of that sucker!!! GEEEZ! Two of those might make a good toprope anchor!


Partner camhead


Apr 19, 2002, 9:55 AM
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Whoah, BD makes a 6? What is this world coming to? Isn't that one of the signs of the apocalypse?

No, I have to agree with shallow, flaring cracks.

And about anything in limestone. It is fun for sporty face climbing, but I would hate to trust any type of passive pro in it. cams are tough in limestone as well, because its cracks are not unifolm as those of Granite or Sandstone are. you frequently wind up with one lobe completely inverted, and another completely extended.


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