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zozo
Apr 13, 2004, 3:48 PM
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Ive started leading recently and think I can start leading in the .10's soon, but I waste a TON of energy at every draw just putzing around trying to get clipped. Can anyone offer up some good technique or is this simply a matter of experience?
I did search this and came up with nothing.
Thanks in advance!
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miuralover
Apr 13, 2004, 4:28 PM
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Two things are important for conserving energy when clipping; the clipping stance and clipping quickly.
Don't rush the clips, get set as if you were going to rest, be relaxed and make sure you are in a good position (not always possible). A common mistake is to get to a hold and immediately make the clip, then get into a good stance to rest or make the next move. Work on the mental game so that you don't get scared and start tensing up before making a clip.
As for clipping quickly this will come with practice. How you actually clip the carabiner will depend on where the biner is in relation to your clipping hand and which direction the biner is facing. Generally I always grab the rope in the same manner with my palm facing the rock, thumb pointed at the ground and rope running through my palm. Depending on rope drag I might pull the rope up to my mouth and bite it there while I grab more but mostly I just pull the rope straight to the carabiner. Now depending on which way the gate of the biner is facing I'll either do a fingerclip or I'll force the rope through the biner with my index finger.
I'm sure there's a picture somewhere of a finger clip but it is used if the gate of the biner is facing you (you can reverse finger clip if the biner is facing away from you but you have to grab the rope differently, I'll let you figure that one out). Grab the rope between index finger and thumb, place your middle finger in the bottom of the carabiner and pull lightly with it to stabalize the biner. Once stabalized you can force the rope through the gate, make sure you don't get your finger in the gate along with the rope or it may get stuck there.
When the gate is facing away from you grab the rope initially the same way but this time stabalize the biner between thumb and middle finger (or palm depening on hand size) and force the rope through the biner with your index finger.
I'm sure someone has a diagram of these but hopefully these descriptions help.
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zozo
Apr 13, 2004, 4:34 PM
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In reply to: Grab the rope between index finger and thumb, place your middle finger in the bottom of the carabiner and pull lightly with it to stabalize the biner. Once stabalized you can force the rope through the gate, make sure you don't get your finger in the gate along with the rope or it may get stuck there. When the gate is facing away from you grab the rope initially the same way but this time stabalize the biner between thumb and middle finger (or palm depening on hand size) and force the rope through the biner with your index finger.
This helps big time. That is my biggest problem is trying to stabilize the draw. I'll test it in the gym later! Thanks
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bigdrop
Apr 13, 2004, 4:44 PM
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Clipping on the bolt side should be straight forward, so I imaging you are talking about clipping on the rope side.
:!: When clipping with right hand:
I place my hand under the harness knot palm facing up. It a good place to reach for the rope because it’s ALWAYS going to be there. Guide the rope from the knot up to the quickdraw…
:arrow: If the gate opens to the left:
Pinch the rope between thumb and index finger.
Place middle finger in the carabineer to stabilize it.
Use thumb and index finger to flick rope past gate and into carabineer.
:arrow: If the gate opens right:
Grab rope with first 3 fingers.
Stabilize carabineer by rapping thumb around the spin.
Guide the rope using your index finger through the gate and into carabineer.
I’m sure you can see how this would change If you where clipping with your left hand.
:idea: Try buying a 2m piece of rope, preferably the same diameter as your dynamic rope and next time you are wasting your life away in front of the TV or soaking up sun in the backyard just sit and practice.
This is just my method, not “THE METHOD” it works for me; it might or might not work for you. Not only that, but often times different situations call for different approaches. But generally speaking its just a matter of practice.
I hope you can understand my instructions; it’s rather hard to explain in words. And I think I may have made it sound more complicated then it really is.
You also need to make sure your draw is oriented correctly and that you don’t reverse or back clip, but that’s a whole new thread.
~jc
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overlord
Apr 13, 2004, 4:45 PM
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try practicingat home.
just hang a draw somewhere and practice.
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drrock
Apr 13, 2004, 4:52 PM
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edit
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tweek
Apr 13, 2004, 5:04 PM
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When guiding your rope through the gate make sure not to get your finger caught in the gate. I was clipping one of those "easy clipping" super bent gate extrodanaire basket type biners and got my finger stuck in the gate pined against the rope which was pinned against the back of the biner. I didn't lose a finger but did lose some skin.
What everyone else said was right on. Petzl has some diagrams on their website and in their catalogue of clipping technique and is a good place to look.
The whole practicing in a gym and in front of the TV/ while working on your computer is probably the best way to go. Maybe during a cold shower with a blind fold on for the advanced course?
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zozo
Apr 13, 2004, 5:13 PM
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In reply to: The whole practicing in a gym and in front of the TV/ while working on your computer is probably the best way to go. Maybe during a cold shower with a blind fold on for the advanced course?
Cold Shower?! I prefer the soaking up the sun idea better! These suggestions are all good. Especially the practise at home one - sometimes I tend to miss the obvious.
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nealric
Apr 13, 2004, 6:51 PM
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A nice tip if the clip is way above your head and you need to clip where you are because of the stance:
clip the rope to the draw before clipping the bolt, then do a semi dynamic move to clip the bolt. You can either go back down and rest or hit a hold near the bolt and keep going in one fluid motion.
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l0wnsl0
Apr 13, 2004, 7:10 PM
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In reply to: clip the rope to the draw before clipping the bolt, then do a semi dynamic move to clip the bolt. You can either go back down and rest or hit a hold near the bolt and keep going in one fluid motion. |
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sarcat
Apr 13, 2004, 7:27 PM
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Practice, practice, practice. You ever watch the old guys and how fluid they make it seem? Practice!
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miuralover
Apr 13, 2004, 7:29 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: clip the rope to the draw before clipping the bolt, then do a semi dynamic move to clip the bolt. You can either go back down and rest or hit a hold near the bolt and keep going in one fluid motion. that seems like kind of a lot of work. unclip draw from your harness, clip into rope, then flip the draw around and clip it into the bolt?? i don't know about doing it that way, you'd have to hold on for longer. i've never really heard of anyone doing it this way.
What's funny is I remember seeing quickdraws where the rope end didn't even open. You had to run the rope through all the draws and rack them on your harness for left and right clips. It didn't really take I don't think...
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