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Pin pullers on schoolroom roof
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brianinslc


Apr 6, 2004, 1:45 PM
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Re: Pin pullers on schoolroom roof [In reply to]
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Don't be surprised. Last summer someone also bashed the fixed pins out of pentapitch. One was unneccesary but had been there forever and was in the guidebook. The other one protected the first move off of the last pitch. I was glad to see it. Not so glad when I saw the guy behind us bashing it out with a hammer. He said it wasn't safe. I say the thing had been there for 20 years so leave it alone.

I know who nabbed that pin, bugger beat me to it.

Wasn't there for 20 years, to be sure. Wasn't there in '85. Folks used to sling the tree (which is now just a nub) then climb back right, then up and into the crack.

Pin wasn't needed or wanted there. The pitch is very protectable without any unneeded extra iron. I've done it several times in the last season without that pin. Heck, if need be, you could practically TR that move by climbing up JG's new friction route above and slinging the first lead bolt or two.

Amazing that folks are still placing pins. On a trade route like Pentapitch, I wish they'd stop. Ain't a sports climb. That last pitch is a super good trad lead at the grade. Lets not bring it down.

Brian in SLC

edit to add pic of last pitch of pentapitch, with (hopefully see-able) three bolt chained belay in view in the center, and the non pin placement just out of view to the center left...

http://mtncommunity.org/...40731a393d9b72b2.jpg

First pitch:

http://mtncommunity.org/...3f95a3996e2c4881.jpg


bsmoot


Apr 6, 2004, 11:42 PM
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Re: Pin pullers on schoolroom roof [In reply to]
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The Schoolroom roof would have been freed years ago by Merril or Steve Hong if it was doable. The crack is too thin, I doubt it will even go clean. With all of the great roof problems that have been freed in the Wasatch, why would any one want to mess with something dangerous like the Schoolroom Roof?

When I started climbing on the granite in the mid 70's most of us did the Roof, I think including Ted Wilson. It was and STILL IS a classic aid climb. It was a famous spot for pictures. Since there aren't that many aid climbs around it would be nice to see this climb left as it is....have the roof fixed again with pins. Repeated nailing will only make the crack worse. If you're into pushing the clean aid, just go to Zion, you'll do more good there!

It's an unfortunant trend to see some young climbers disregarding history. Too bad more climbers aren't like Timpanogos. This guy respects the past and the climbing community by asking around first....Chad you're the Man!


timpanogos


Apr 7, 2004, 7:27 AM
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Well, here's what the grape-vine says:

The guys that pulled those pins definitely were Andrew Christensen and a guy named Matt aka "cowboy", I believe from Washington.

They were both in LCC that day and had a new hammer.

Apparently they are gathering gear for an upcoming el-cap trip.

Chad

P.S. Andrew is from Provo


brianinslc


Apr 7, 2004, 7:33 AM
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Well, here's what the grape-vine says:

The guys that pulled those pins definitely were Andrew Christensen and a guy named Matt aka "cowboy", I believe from Washington.

They were both in LCC that day and had a new hammer.

Apparently they are gathering gear for an upcoming el-cap trip.

Chad

Geez...and you could get old pins for a buck or two at the BD swap...

Weak. Sometimes that bad karma catches up with a person.

Brian in SLC


grayhghost


Apr 7, 2004, 10:55 AM
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Re: Pin pullers on schoolroom roof [In reply to]
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I was one of the people who confronted these cheap wanks.
They said they were cleaning up the canyon and told me I could nail up the roof again if I believed it was right, so I asked them for the pins back and they said no. Now I understand they were just thieves out for the pins. The pins were almost brand new. I hope Andrew takes a whipper on his "new" pins and never walks again. Thieving _____ are taking from our community.


ammon


Apr 7, 2004, 11:59 AM
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(To the people who are wondering "what is the big deal?")

The big deal is the pins should have been left in place for future climbers to use and enjoy. I remember climbing this roof in "94" before I ever went to Yosemite. I didn't own a hammer or pins at the time, so without them being fixed I probably wouldn't have climbed it. I remember thinking it was great practice for some of the climbing I wanted to do in the Valley.

BTW- I think there is a HUGE difference between pins and bolts. Yes pins will damage the rock in repeated placements. BUT, like a lot of these people already said. "That's why they were fixed".

Andrew and Cowboy: You guys should be ashamed of yourselves. If you needed pins that bad you should have asked me. I would have hooked you up with a handful.... or let you borrow my entire pin rack if need be.

WHAT YOU DID WAS VERY SELFISH!!

It would be sad to see this become a trend!!!

Cheers, Ammon


galf


Apr 7, 2004, 4:17 PM
Post #57 of 88 (13765 views)
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I hope Andrew takes a whipper on his "new" pins and never walks again.
:shock:
If you really mean it, then you're a moron.


boltchopper


Apr 7, 2004, 5:38 PM
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Re: Pin pullers on schoolroom roof [In reply to]
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You guys don't have any idea who you are talking about do you? Andrew the bolt chopper is a hard, hard son of a b . When ya'll climb Sea of Dreams, free the Moonlight, onsight 5.13 in the creek, free solo WI6, or onsight M10 like Andrew, you can come spraying about pins and bolts and ethics. Untill then, you are fools. Don't believe the hype- climbing is anarchy.


timpanogos


Apr 7, 2004, 5:56 PM
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You guys don't have any idea who you are talking about do you? Andrew the bolt chopper is a hard, hard son of a b . When ya'll climb Sea of Dreams, free the Moonlight, onsight 5.13 in the creek, free solo WI6, or onsight M10 like Andrew, you can come spraying about pins and bolts and ethics. Untill then, you are fools. Don't believe the hype- climbing is anarchy.

Ive heard he climbs hard so what? Ive also heard he is very unstable individual and has caused grief before in the climbing community building a great reputation for himself in a small world. Yea I think we are getting a pretty good feel for who we are talking about.

This from the list of posts by boltchopper
In reply to:
I am Andrew, the bolt chopper.

So that is all you have to say to justify steeling the pins you are a godly climber and climbing is anarchy?

I hope Karma is kinder to you than others have proposed. I really do.


mikeasca


Apr 7, 2004, 5:59 PM
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WTFO-Do a search for bolt chopper by post. It will say it all.


over_the_hill


Apr 7, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Here is a link to what is being written on another site: http://www.utahclimbers.com/.../viewtopic.php?t=748

It just sounds as if this person has no regard for climbing other his his own selfish reasons. I am sure he would have no problem taking those pins and placing them in the green adjective crack just to further his own selfish desires.
Andrew, I wish you good luck on your trip to Yosemite. I am sure that before you do any hard lines in the valley, you will rap down the nose and steal all the gear you need for your other climbs. Since you like to quote from music, here is a relevant quote for you: "What goes around, comes back stronger!" (skinny puppy). Hey, why don't you go and take all the bolts/ hangers off the "S" direct too! that gear may come in handy too somewhere.........


rockprodigy


Apr 7, 2004, 8:40 PM
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Re: Pin pullers on schoolroom roof [In reply to]
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You guys don't have any idea who you are talking about do you? Andrew the bolt chopper is a hard, hard son of a b . When ya'll climb Sea of Dreams, free the Moonlight, onsight 5.13 in the creek, free solo WI6, or onsight M10 like Andrew, you can come spraying about pins and bolts and ethics. Untill then, you are fools. Don't believe the hype- climbing is anarchy.

This is a family site...jerk off in private if you love yourself so much...isn't that an arrestable offense down there in the UC?

Since you apparently base your self worth on your past glories rather than current actions, let's get more specific

Which 5.13 in the creek?

Which WI6? ...and was it in WI6 condition? (aren't they all solos?)

What M10? I'm guessing one of those inflated chosspiles in Provo or Santaquin? Some mixed climbing newb told me Baghdad was M9!

I can spray like that too if I keep it general enough:

I've onsighted 5.13 in the City, I've soloed WI6, and I've onsighted M8+!

(the .13 at the city, I only onsighted the crux, and I downrated it to 12c..., the WI6, I only soled the first pitch WI4, and the M8+ was on TR)

See how that works.

Now, I have freed the Moonlight, so I am approved to tell you that stealing fixed gear from a beginners route is pretty weak-dick.

That's some arrogance to decide you need those pins more than anyone else. To sit there and claim you're doing it for some ethical reason is pretty sad, I mean surely someone who solos WI6 (yeah right) has the balls to tell people you're just fattening your rack. You have to lie because you're scared you'd get yelled at by a 5.8 climber? You're actions show you are a coward regardless of whatever your mouth sprays.

Let's talk about what really matters. What FA's have you done?


timpanogos


Apr 7, 2004, 9:23 PM
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Let's talk about what really matters. What FA's have you done?

Sorry Mike, I think he is better known for the FAs he has raped

Ask him about his Rock Canyon exploits


bsmoot


Apr 7, 2004, 10:32 PM
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Andrew,

Why don't you show that you're a REAL man and go up and pound those pins back into the roof, then you won't be thought of as the "sissie" that you are.


brianinslc


Apr 8, 2004, 8:30 AM
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You guys don't have any idea who you are talking about do you? Andrew the bolt chopper is a hard, hard son of a b . When ya'll climb Sea of Dreams, free the Moonlight, onsight 5.13 in the creek, free solo WI6, or onsight M10 like Andrew, you can come spraying about pins and bolts and ethics. Untill then, you are fools. Don't believe the hype- climbing is anarchy.

Yeah, takes one bad ass dude to steal pins on rappel...

There's a measure of civility in climbing, anarchy or no. What goes 'round comes 'round.

And...I don't let weenies with an over inflated sense of their self worth define my ethics.

Brian in SLC


grayhghost


Apr 8, 2004, 9:25 AM
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wow Andrew, that is quite the impressive tick list, and we all know that the grades are what really counts when it comes to climbing.
The beauty of the situation is that Andrew pulled the pins while DOWN-AIDING. He did not repeat the route on lead, most likely because of the nasty fall potential messing up his golden pony-tail.
You will be found out. :wink:


paintrain


Apr 8, 2004, 9:58 AM
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I think if he is the bad ass as he claims in electronic spray world, he should at least try to do it clean if not free.

The simple act of stealing them because you are too much of a cheap ass is pretty bad - I don't care if you are the dali lama, buddha, mohammid or JC. To qualify it as an act of cleaning up and justify it by claiming you are tough guy is just assinine.

Hell, if he is so good, I would guess sponsors would be throwing racks at him.

"Climbing is anarchy" that makes me laugh. It is anything but.

pt


ammon


Apr 12, 2004, 1:37 PM
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Don't believe the hype- climbing is anarchy.

WHAAAAATT??

Is that why I was missing gear after we climbed El Cap together?


grayhghost


Apr 13, 2004, 9:51 AM
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whoa! this is a revelation. Ammon, do you know this Andrew?


ammon


Apr 13, 2004, 10:49 AM
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Yes. I know Andrew. Very solid climber and all around good guy (I thought). I think when I met him he was around 18.... mature, but had some growing up to do.

I was asking a serious question though, since he seperated the rack without me and I had trouble getting some of my gear back. Some of it never turned up at all.

So, I was just wondering if his anarchy statement had something to do with all that confusion I had when it was time for him to leave the Valley.

Just makes me wonder........


funk29


Apr 13, 2004, 11:18 AM
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Andrew is a sick climber!
I funk 99% of the pins I place or see.
I am not an SLC local.
I find this form interesting
Andrew is an SLC local..
Many of you are.


ammon


Apr 13, 2004, 12:01 PM
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In reply to:
I funk 99% of the pins I place.

I agree. BUT, that is the point.... he did not place them himself.

One of my favorite quotes from an old time Yosemite climber is:

"There is no such thing is a fixed pin... there's a pin in the wall, and then one on my rack"

Of course this logic doesn't apply to ALL climbs. You have to use some common sense.

In reply to:
Andrew is a sick climber!

Well, I hope he gets better.... or are you saying what he DOES while climbing is sickening?

Like I said, I know Andrew and consider him a friend. But, I don't agree with what he's doing and think it sets a bad example for future climbers. That's all.

Cheers


funk29


Apr 13, 2004, 12:03 PM
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Right.
Thats where it gets sticky...


funk29


Apr 13, 2004, 12:08 PM
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please pass the whiskey.


grayhghost


Apr 13, 2004, 12:18 PM
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ah. I believe Funk29 was the belayer for Andrew when he was stealing the pins out of schoolroom roof.

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