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funk29
Apr 13, 2004, 7:21 PM
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It looks like we should prosecute.
Quick someone call a detective.
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grayhghost
Apr 13, 2004, 7:41 PM
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no need.
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ammon
Apr 14, 2004, 3:03 AM
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It was wrong for me to insinuate that Andrew stole any gear from me. Truth is, we were in a serious storm together and were the only party that didn't either bail or get plucked off (We were three pitches from the top). So, anything could have happened to that gear.
Anyway, I just wanted to clear that up. I think I let his 'tude get the best of me. Kinda funny this would happen looking back at when I was fourteen sporting a leather jacket with a huge anarchy sign on it.
So, Andrew PM'd me and said the pins he pulled were in pretty bad shape and some were rusted almost through to the eye. He claims that it will go clean at C1 or C2. Whatever!
Has anybody been up there yet?
Cheers
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timpanogos
Apr 14, 2004, 3:27 AM
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I don't personally know Andrew - but I've been told by some that do -
"watch your stuff if he's around"
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jwiggins
Apr 26, 2004, 2:04 PM
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are andrew and mike the same crew that chopped several bolted routes in rock canyon?
can someone post a picture of these guys?
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jwiggins
Apr 26, 2004, 2:05 PM
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are andrew and mike the same crew that chopped several bolted routes in rock canyon?
can someone post a picture of these guys?
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grayhghost
Apr 26, 2004, 2:49 PM
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I don't know for certain but a previous post suggested that these two were the same people who chopped bolts in rock canyon. You might try to get some input from the Provo crew (i am in SLC proper) Andrew is tall and skinny with a long, blond pony tail. Happy hunting.
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mikeasca
Apr 26, 2004, 10:20 PM
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I think you mean matt not mike he goes by funk29. Check out his profile.
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funk29
Apr 27, 2004, 7:01 PM
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Schoolroom Pin Puller, uses pins to put up FA in Kolob/ZNP!!!
This just in the notorious Schoolroom pin puller, Bolt Chopper/ Andrew Christensen used the three and a half stolen pins to put up a grade VI, FA in Kolob Canyon/Zion National Park. Last weekend the maverick climber Andrew Christensen and the mysterious big wall legend “Shaggy” put up a nine pitch 400-meter route on the North Face Wall of Kolobs, South Fork of Tayor Creek. Their Route “Stolen Pins VI 5.10 A4 D + r/x PDW(pretty damn western)” is directly across from the southern facing Lowe-Wilford project (see note below). It starts of mellow with an 80ft overhanging 5.10 hand crack what was originally a free climb called “Grandpa Stadg.” From the route follows a 60 meter pitch thin that contains 30m of camming beaks on an angled crack. Because these pin pullers apparently only had a rack of a set of nuts, 9 “Bootied cams”, The Three and a half Schoolroom pins (TTSP) and , six beaks that were also reportedly stolen off of a “serious nailing pitch somewhere on the Titians, Finger of Fate route. Because Andrew only has a small rack, (all of which is stolen except for the set of nuts that he didn’t purchase from REI) there are several of the 60m pitches that required leapfrogging of pins. Caution would be climber’s belays are reportedly suspect because of the large amounts of spinners as well as obnoxious accessories bolted to the wall. Like a soupspoon at the belay, a kitchen cabinet knob on one of the rivet sections, and at least one crushed Mt. Dew can used at a washer at each belay.
This route is with out a doubt the hardest techo aid route in any of the Kolob Canyons and receives the Jim Beyer rating of A4 D +r/x. Andrew is quoted at saying;
I was really inspired by talking with Beyer after he got off of Martyrs Brigade (a new route on El Cap.) I really wanted to duplicate a route with a pitch similar to his ‘8ft duct taped to ice axe hook move off a loose block...but I didn’t bring my ax so I had to lasso a small bush instead… with my cordelette and the TTSP’s tied on for weight to toss the line…I was already 40 feet into the A4 D section, looking now at a 75 foot ledge fall for sure, so obviously, it was not as hard as Martyrs Brigade, and besides, my biceps aren’t as big as Jims anyway.”
“I was really scared on that pitch dude, Like, I almost messed up my golden ponytail man… that’s not cool..I’d lose my sponsers for sure”
Notes:
I: The National Chapter of Crack Bolting Gumbies (NCCBG) is currently proposing an effort to retro bolt this danger to the climbing community. The president Godd Harding
“I think it is evil to use crushed Mt. Dew cans instead of washers while placing a Rawl 5 piece.”
One cedar local was overheard talking about the ascent-
“that dude [Andrew] is so sick.. I’m gonna start stealing pins so I can climb hard just like him—I heard that there are at least 4 left in the schoolroom roof…”
II: Some one currently has been sieging this prized project into submission over the last 6 moths. There are currently ropes fixed 4/5th of the way up this route. These ropes will hopefully be chopped soon.
P.S. There are no fixed pins on this route.
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bandycoot
Apr 27, 2004, 7:24 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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Do you write for The Onion?
www.theonion.com
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ammon
Apr 27, 2004, 8:09 PM
Post #86 of 88
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In reply to: Caution would be climber’s belays are reportedly suspect because of the large amounts of spinners as well as obnoxious accessories bolted to the wall. Like a soupspoon at the belay, a kitchen cabinet knob on one of the rivet sections, and at least one crushed Mt. Dew can used at a washer at each belay.
I don't GET it. Andrew claimed to have been "cleaning up garbage" from Schoolroom Roof..... that was HIS argument. Weak as it was.......
This must be a troll, then again....... some people will do ANYTHING for attention.
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evilshaggy
May 17, 2004, 10:27 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2004
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Ya'll Gotts ta be carful with dis Split, Homeboy carries a Glock at all times he's LOCO. And besides he's right climbing is 100% Anarchy. Ethics aren't laws, don't make them so. Any person has a right to place a bolt or pin anywhere they want, and any person has a right to remove that bolt or pin. Ask Royal, Ask Warren, Ask Yvon, and Tom. These are our forefathers. Ask them I have.
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billcoe_
Mar 16, 2007, 5:35 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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[quote "ammon"](To the people who are wondering "what is the big deal?")
The big deal is the pins should have been left in place for future climbers to use and enjoy. I remember climbing this roof in "94" before I ever went to Yosemite. I didn't own a hammer or pins at the time, so without them being fixed I probably wouldn't have climbed it. I remember thinking it was great practice for some of the climbing I wanted to do in the Valley.
BTW- I think there is a HUGE difference between pins and bolts. Yes pins will damage the rock in repeated placements. BUT, like a lot of these people already said. "That's why they were fixed".
Andrew and Cowboy: You guys should be ashamed of yourselves. If you needed pins that bad you should have asked me. I would have hooked you up with a handful.... or let you borrow my entire pin rack if need be.
WHAT YOU DID WAS VERY SELFISH!!
It would be sad to see this become a trend!!!
Cheers, Ammon[/quote]
Did any of you ever confront these lowlife thieves?
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