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xclimber
Apr 14, 2004, 12:56 AM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
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Are there any contraindications for using a bent gate 'biner on the bottom (rope end) of a trad draw? I.E. is back-clipping/unclipping a real consideration as it is with sport draws...?
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jimdavis
Apr 14, 2004, 12:39 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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if your gonna buy new biners...get wiregates. there really isn't much reason to get bent-gates anymore, wiregates are even easier to clip, lighter, less gate flutter, ect.
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xclimber
Apr 14, 2004, 12:52 PM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
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Do you have a favorite amongst the wire gates :lol:
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reedcrr
Apr 14, 2004, 1:39 PM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2004
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Bent gates are for speed....or faster rope entry...
Trad clipping is normally not fast so the extra added speed does not help you out in this case.
As with sport climbing you still want to protect yourself from back clipping the draw, but as far as using a bent gate on the rope end trad gear it just doesn't make any sense and because the carabiner is attached to a sling it tends to move alot more and could give you some problems. Stick with an "oval" shaped draw for trad gear rather then the "d" shaped draws sport climbers use.
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j_ung
Apr 14, 2004, 1:44 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Trim the weight on your trad rack as much as possible - wire gates all around.
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sed
Apr 14, 2004, 2:04 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2003
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I definitely feel nervous about clipping a bent gate when using a longer runner, whether it's to a bolt or especially a piece of gear. As mentioned the risk of the carabiner twisting due to the slack, or getting pinched against cracks or protrusions is much greater.
Another decision to make.
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tylerm
Apr 14, 2004, 2:09 PM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 153
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If you are using runners with 2 biners for draws, than the risk of it unclipping is far less likely to happen. The flexibility and bit of extra slack given by the runners allows them to move and not pinch. Normal draws are sewn and somewhat rigid, and they are more than likely shorter than a runner draw. Do not fear back-clipping; fear your placements...
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jimdavis
Apr 14, 2004, 9:27 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
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Hotwires, Dovals, and Trango LightWires. I hear Oval-Wires are pretty sweet too.
The Hotwires are being closed out right now for colored ones, get em while you can!
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