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echa92
Apr 13, 2004, 5:05 PM
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Ok, so I just got back from a climbing gym, and felt totally whipped. I have been climbing alot outdoors for the past year or so, and have gotten a lot better. But as my outdoor skills have gotten better, my gym skills have gotten worse. I assume it's from the more intense overhanging nature of gyms, but maybe not. Does anyone else have this problem? if so, am i doing something wrong?
P.s. I do have a wall in my garage that I use very frequently.
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rocket
Apr 13, 2004, 5:22 PM
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I'm no expert, but I don't think you're doing anything wrong. I believe it is just the nature of the indoor gym. My motto is, "There's no tape outdoors". So, indoors you climb the "tracking only" routes and must follow a pre-defined route to ensure the route maintains that specific level of difficulty. Whereas, outdoors the wall is your universe and you can find your own path based upon your technique. Everything is in and you don't have to follow those left over chalk marks.
Also, you have to look at the whole rating schema. What you are climbing outdoors (with no tape) may be rated a little different than the person(s) who set your routes indoors. Its all a bit subjective, I think, and there's been plenty of post dealing with that point.
Lastly, maybe you were just having a bad day climbing indoors. Your body may just be tired and needs a break.
All in all, if you're having fun outdoors, you feel good about your climbing ability then just enjoy!
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overlord
Apr 13, 2004, 5:42 PM
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after a long winter with little or no outdoor comes the spring with outdoor heaven.
and i always seem to improove indoors after a few sessions outdoors.
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jammin
Apr 13, 2004, 6:13 PM
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I have given up climbing indoors. I get my but whipped by 16 yr olds all the time. But then I go outdoors and see them hanging off the wall all day while I go and do some pitch.
I don't take gyms seriously anymore. Climb a home wall and my outdoor climbing has been improving.
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jono
Apr 13, 2004, 9:01 PM
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gyms are the devil
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gds
Apr 13, 2004, 9:09 PM
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most gym routes put a big premium on finger strength as they are usually vertical or steeper. It is pretty hard to find gym routes that stress counterpressure, low hands, etc. Not a matter of better or worse-just different.
I climb 3 grades harder outdoors where I can use some technique and not depend on finger strength (which I don't have). But the more I climb indoors the worse I climb outdoors--I do get stronger but then I depend on it too much--bad technique.
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jcinco
Apr 13, 2004, 9:40 PM
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Gym climbing is all about "how hard can you pull?". Outdoor climbing requires footwork and thought. Seems to me I usually get weaker when my climbing is all outdoors, but I climb better. I'm usually stronger in the winter when I climb mostly inside, but my footwork sucks and I overgrip when outside and am usually disappointed by my outdoor performance.
So perhaps you've gotten weaker as you've become a better climber? Just goes to show the myth of strength/power in climbing.
This is always something I've been frustrated about with regards to gym climbing. Seems that all the problems fall into the category of a) I can do them or b) I can't do them, and no amount of "working" the problem makes a difference, because I'm just not strong enough. Outside, problems are more involved, and it can take weeks or longer to work out all the intricacies, finding new foot placements, etc. I can eventually work out hard problems outside with better beta and work, but inside there is no "working it out" unless I get much stronger.
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climbingaz
Apr 13, 2004, 10:47 PM
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I too have found that gyms can be dangerous if your goal is to improve outdoors. How often do you see a crazy overhanging cave or wall with nice big jugs every 3 feet? I don't know about you, but I see them all the time in the gym, but rarely outdoors. Guess my point is that I try to concentrate on gym climbs that are more realistic to the types of outdoor routes I intend to climb. And how many people do you see in the gym practicing their crack climbing skills?
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akclimber
Apr 13, 2004, 10:52 PM
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gym climbing pisses me off, been doin it all winter, seems like all the "hard" routes are hanging on for dear life with things less than the size of a keyboard key that are slimy and smooth, and they never require any kool movements....according to the gym i got to, to boulder, i cant do a V0, but somehow outside i can easily pull off 5.10....
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micahmcguire
Apr 13, 2004, 11:06 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
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the highway is perfectly good now akclimber. go outside
And I don't believe you about those ratings. At the risk of going out on a limb, no one climbs harder route outside than inside-unless the people aren't grading routes realistically; especially up here in Alaska.
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akclimber
Apr 14, 2004, 2:02 AM
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Evidence. :lol:
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xanx
Apr 14, 2004, 2:31 AM
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climbing outside is better.
who cares how u climb inside as long as u are getting better outside?
go send harder, then shoot anyone down who insults ur gym climbing by calling them a lame gym rat.
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cragmaster
Apr 14, 2004, 3:11 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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There is no problem. Gyms suck.Keep goin' outside!
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itakealot
Apr 14, 2004, 4:00 AM
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In reply to: There is no problem. Gyms suck.Keep goin' outside!
Word!
Outside climbing is all that matters! I climb almost a whole number grade harder outside and the gym is only for training. Just like any athelete, training is not comp day. Comp day is when you are outside about to get on you heinous project or some insane multi-pitch with 20 foot gear placements.
The gym is to keep you muscles warm. I have seen so many gym rats who crank in the gym, piss and whine on outdoor routes.
So if you can climb harder outside, that is a good thing
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ozgirl
Apr 14, 2004, 11:35 AM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2002
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Totally agree with the main thread!! I climb outdoors, but gave the gym a go the other day ... ended up totally pumped after a few lower-grade climbs. It was fun, the bouldering cave was amazing (love the massive crash-pads!) but it didn't have the "lure" of climbing outside at all. Back to Arapiles!
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crag
Apr 14, 2004, 1:08 PM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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In reply to: gyms are the devil
....and route setters are the anitchrist
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reedcrr
Apr 14, 2004, 1:29 PM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2004
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Gym skills? :wtf:
If the plastic is kicking your a$$ then revaluate why you are there in the first place....to gain better skills for the outdoors! You said you were climbing better outdoors right? Well stay outside and get even better! It's not rocket science here folks...
Plus stop being such a wuss.... crying about your declining "gym" skills....be a climber not a gym rat!
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