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Sawed Offs
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dagawebb


Apr 14, 2004, 8:29 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2003
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Sawed Offs
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Hi All,
I am heading to Yosemite in August of this year. I have pitons and want to create some sawed off. What I would like to know is the following:

1. How many sawed off would i need for a moderatenailing route,
2. What length should the sawed offs, be distance from eye to tip,
3. What do you use ie Hacksaw or some other tools,
4. What are the best pitons to make the sawed offs out of, my preference for pitons is BD.

One last thing does anyone know where i can get some A5 Birdbeaks from.

Thankyou in advance


timpanogos


Apr 14, 2004, 9:24 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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This is what my mentor told me:

a regular so has 40% of the blade cut off
some also make a "semi" which has about 25% cut off

in the larger pins - (1, 1.25) might cut them a bit shorter than the 40%

I took mine to our high school where they have a band saw that cuts metal - pored water on them while cutting.

hope this helps

chad


strider


Apr 14, 2004, 9:56 PM
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Let me preface... I only have a little advice I can since my only experience is with what I have read and not what I have done.

First, in Yos, the only piton that you saw nowadays are the angles. KB's, LA's, Bongs and Bugaboos don't get cut too often since they come in shorter sizes. Sawed angles are good because a lot of the cracks in Yos are flaring piton scars that have evolved over time. If you can locate an older Big wall topo guide (Reid) and a newer big wall topo guide (McNamara), you will notice that the rack has evolved over time on the routes that see more traffic, i.e. the Nose, Zodiac, T. Trip, Muir Wall, Salathe Wall, etc...

You can still cut your KB, LA, etc... but you will only need a few of each. Angles on the other hand are different. For a "full" rack on the "moderate" routes you should have 2-3 of each size sawed angle. There are 6 sizes: 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1", 1.25", 1.5". Having 2-3 sawed angles of each size would give you a rack that would be sufficient for ANY El Cap route, but you won't need them all. For example, The Wall of Early Morning Light (as published in Supertopo) requires the most sawed angles of all the published routes. It ranks in at 11 sawed angles. And that is only sawed angles, it also needs 5 angles, 8 LAs and 3 KBs. However 3/4" and 1" seem to be pretty popular so that is where you should start. Two of each of those and maybe one of a size bigger and smaller size. If you have specific goals in mind them you should start checking topo's to see what you need.

Good Luck
-n


ammon


Apr 14, 2004, 10:35 PM
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Registered: Feb 26, 2004
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In reply to:
How many sawed off would i need for a moderatenailing route

It depends on the route. Most of the trade routes don't need any sawd-offs. I can only think of a handfull that I've ever used them on. Eagle's Way and The Shield are first to come to mind.

In reply to:
What length should the sawed offs, be distance from eye to tip

Chad pretty much nailed it. However, every scar has a different depth.... so, you might have to tie some of those suckas off.

In reply to:
What do you use ie Hacksaw or some other tools

Yeah man, only use brutal force for the last resort. Use a grinding wheel or bandsaw. A wire wheel helps to get the burs off. If you're using your muscle try to find something better than sandpaper. A curb works in a pinch.

In reply to:
What are the best pitons to make the sawed offs out of, my preference for pitons is BD

That's right.

In reply to:
One last thing does anyone know where i can get some A5 Birdbeaks from.

I like the BD peckers better.... and they have those niffty little (tie-off) holes in them for roofs and diagonal placements.

Have fun in the Valley. Look me up.

Cheers, Ammon


brutusofwyde


Apr 17, 2004, 3:26 PM
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Q: "How many sawed-off angles can dance in the eye of a pin?"

A: "Guess it depends on whether you saw off the legs or the wings."

seriously, though, I use a skill saw with metal cutting carborundum blade. Usually boxed-out pin scars are where they come in the most handy. You might want to have a few if you head up old popular routes that saw a lot of traffic in their time: Mescalito, Dihedral Wall, Shield (already mentioned)... heck, come to think of it, most routes requiring these, at least on the Cap'n, would be mentioned in Mac's excellent Supertopos.

Good luck, and be careful up there.

Brutus


ammon


Apr 18, 2004, 1:01 PM
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Sounds like good advice that pmyche is giving.

I think everyone looks at those boxed out pin scars a little different. I don't remember placing any sawed-offs on PO, Mescelito OR The Shield.

A fat camhook will sometimes work in those scars, as well.

Have fun.


brutusofwyde


Apr 18, 2004, 1:14 PM
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In reply to:
Sounds like good advice that pmyche is giving.

I think everyone looks at those boxed out pin scars a little different. I don't remember placing any sawed-offs on PO, Mescelito OR The Shield.

A fat camhook will sometimes work in those scars, as well.

Have fun.

Well, since I haven't done any of those routes, I'm busted for talking out of my mule... :oops:

Brutus


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