|
gogo
Apr 9, 2004, 4:21 AM
Post #1 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 198
|
Hey, does anyone out there have any good tips for developing footwork? I think I really need to work on mine, as my climbing style is becoming too much strength/not enough technique. Mine isn't that bad, but I know that right now it is the only thing that is holding me back from signficantly harder problems. I've been told to climb slabs but I don't have many where I'm at, and the ones I do have I have done to death.
So, any good tips (outdoor or indoor)?
Thanks,
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
scclimber
Apr 9, 2004, 4:29 AM
Post #2 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2003
Posts: 159
|
when climbing, place your feet where you want them the first time. don't drag them behind on the way to the placement. get in the habit of not moving your feet once you put them down. that will make you put them on the best part of the hold the first time.
|
|
|
|
|
climbinfroiprocks
Apr 9, 2004, 4:39 AM
Post #3 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2003
Posts: 44
|
a really good way to practice overhanging footwork is to get on an overhang where your feet cut easily. Grab two holds and hang there like you feet just cut. Then practice trowing your foot to a hold and holding it. This is called "target practice." They do it at my gym
|
|
|
|
|
solarain
Apr 9, 2004, 5:45 AM
Post #4 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2004
Posts: 14
|
Try a game of "silent feet" with a partner or on your own at the gym. The idea is to make every foot placement intentional and solid not making a sound on the wall. Its really helped balance out my climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
mountainstyle
Apr 9, 2004, 6:25 AM
Post #5 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2004
Posts: 7
|
Does your gym have any slab routes? If so get on a moderate or easy route, hold a tennis ball in each hand, and use your hands only as balance. This will force you to focus on your feet. I know is sounds absurd, but I have seen jr. comp teams train this way. Good luck!
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Apr 9, 2004, 6:26 AM
Post #6 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
look at your feet as much as you can. when placing them look to see you're precicely placing it where you want it.
saves your sole and rand too to have good foot work.
|
|
|
|
|
daigo_leow
Apr 9, 2004, 10:47 AM
Post #7 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 26, 2003
Posts: 13
|
if u happen to be at the local rock gym, u can try not allowing, for example ur left foot to step onto any hold while on a particular route. thus u learn to smear better. then switch to ur right foot. it helped me better my footwork and also learn to try different movements.
|
|
|
|
|
zozo
Apr 9, 2004, 12:24 PM
Post #8 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2004
Posts: 3431
|
Traverse and boulder, boulder and traverse, then traverse some more.
|
|
|
|
|
sgorman
Apr 9, 2004, 12:49 PM
Post #9 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2003
Posts: 50
|
I don't claim to have great footwork myself, but playing a game of "stick" with footholds instead of handholds seems to be beneficial. its fun too, and different
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Apr 9, 2004, 12:55 PM
Post #10 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
LOOK at where you put your feet. and look when youre putting them there. be precise.
|
|
|
|
|
andy_reagan
Apr 9, 2004, 2:07 PM
Post #11 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2004
Posts: 1075
|
dismember your legs and you won't have to worry about footwork.
|
|
|
|
|
scracus
Apr 9, 2004, 9:23 PM
Post #12 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 23, 2004
Posts: 71
|
Work your way through the grades on overhanging problems with only campus moves. If you get to V6/V7 without any finger injuries you won't need footwork anymore!
|
|
|
|
|
gogo
Apr 10, 2004, 4:07 AM
Post #13 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 198
|
Cool, thanks for all the training ideas. Let's see if my footwork improves now.
Aside from that, I'm in a good mood because I just got back from Big Bend, UT from bouldering all day, and had two V4 onsights and one V5 onsight. LIG.
Thanks,
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
jgill
Apr 10, 2004, 8:22 PM
Post #14 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2002
Posts: 653
|
No-hands problems are good, although they are better for balance training. Forty years ago they were an integral part of bouldering. 8)
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Apr 15, 2004, 5:00 AM
Post #15 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
Boulder or climb with someone else who has really good footwork. Then try to apply what you saw them doing to your own climbing. I had the really good fortune to climb with John Stannard extensively when I was a n00b (and he has the best climbing technique of anyone I have ever seen) and benefitted much by trying to emulate him.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
sandbag
Apr 15, 2004, 5:12 AM
Post #16 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2003
Posts: 1443
|
yeah, go play on stuff like this:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=23241
|
|
|
|
|
itakealot
Apr 15, 2004, 6:19 AM
Post #17 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 8, 2003
Posts: 382
|
Stop Climbing in the Gym. Most Gym routes are contrived and force you to use your arms.
Be deliberate with your feet. POINT them into the wall and get on your big toe and do not edge!
In other words, force your arms to be straight, then use your peripheral vision and look down and place your feet. Once you have moved your feet up and they are solid with your arms straight, stand up.
Your body should look like a frog while doing this. and remember to keep your buttox and hips from sticking out.
You will know when you are doing this correctly when your calves burn and big toe aches.
Oh yeah, take a look at some of the pics in climbing mags. There is always one pic of someone looking down to spot their feet.
|
|
|
|
|
ramylson
Apr 15, 2004, 5:24 PM
Post #18 of 18
(3458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2000
Posts: 317
|
In reply to: Stop Climbing in the Gym. Most Gym routes are contrived and force you to use your arms.
Depends on what gym your climbing at.. some are better then others. Then again, not every route outdoors will have the perfect feet. Sometimes a lot of things are contrived, but that "problem solving" and strength is the magic of climbing (IMO).
Anyway, start with what was previously mentioned regarding climbing routes where you soley pay attention to your footwork. This should be done on routes you can typically on-site, or even a grade or two beneath that. Be very specific and purposeful for where you move/place your feet. After a bit of that, go through your typical climbing, still keeping in mind that you should have "quiet" feet. Route difficulty should be near your limit. Finally, before you give up and go home for the evening, go through and work a circuit with all of the problems you started with. These are problems that you've done before, know, and would typically warm up on. Once again, at your on-site level or a few grade below that. Once again, focus on your foot work specifically (you know you can already do the problems, and the hold associated with that problem. So, there's little for you to "worry" about). Be specific with your movements again. Also, when I mean circuit, I mean going through all of those problems one right after the other. Meaning, when you finish a problem, you're already going on and starting the next one.
A nice side effect to doing all of this, is that you're going to be working on your power endurance, as well as "calming" yourself and keeping good footwork when you get pumped on a route. Typically, when people get pumped, they really start to focus on pulling with their arms, and their footwork goes right out the window. By doing what was previously mentioned, will definitely help you combat that.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
