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mountainrat
Apr 15, 2002, 1:14 PM
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When in doubt, ...
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sauron
Apr 15, 2002, 1:20 PM
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Quote:
Is my Rope Okay?
Probably not.
- d.
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howitzer
Apr 15, 2002, 1:34 PM
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I personally would replace it, which sucks I know, but any kind of 'wierd' feeling a rope has (lumps, crispy, different texture etc.) could likely mean damage to the core of the rope, and, like was said, when in doubt - don't take the chance
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woodse
Apr 15, 2002, 1:47 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2001
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The 3 r's...
Retire it, remorse, and re-invest!
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radistrad
Apr 15, 2002, 1:48 PM
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Weave it into a carpet! And buy a new rope! After all the rope is you life line.
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kevinwaldock
Apr 15, 2002, 2:07 PM
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Hello,
Just another quick question about rope. If your rope gets an almost fuzzy texture from wear, is it still okay??
kevin
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sauron
Apr 15, 2002, 2:31 PM
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Junkstar,
I've pulled quite a number of ropes, in my short time as rock climber (just ask adam/karen/fo_d:) - and it takes quite a bit MORE than a "gentle tug" to cut a rope to it's core.
- d.
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krillen
Apr 15, 2002, 2:42 PM
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Fuzzy texture on the sheath is fine. It means it's doing it's job, taking the abrasion instead of the core. As long as it doesn't have any soft/hard spots or other irregularities.
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howitzer
Apr 15, 2002, 3:18 PM
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Rope getting fuzzy, at least in my experience, is normal from the sheath rubbing on rocks and getting used. That is what the sheath is for - protection of the core, so that fuzzy look is fine as long as it is not so severe that the core of the rope is visible. Look at http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/safety.htm#retire
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jt512
Apr 15, 2002, 5:49 PM
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I don't think that we can really tell if the rope is still safe by a verbal description of it. When you say that the rope seems "crispy" and that the damage seems to be just to the sheath, it sounds to me like the sheath was melted. This can happen from rappelling or lowering too fast. If the sheath has just been melted a bit, then the rope should still be safe (after you cut off the end with the core shot); however, there is no way I could say for sure if the damage is just a burn without seeing the rope.
-Jay
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fo_d
Apr 15, 2002, 6:10 PM
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Every manufacture's guidelines for retirement list that I have ever seen has included hard spots. As for buying another Beal, I think you just got unlucky and it was on a really sharp edge, but if it was me I would probably buy a different brand anyway, thats just me, there is no logical reason for buying a different brand, it would just make me feel better.
Les
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overlord
Apr 15, 2002, 6:40 PM
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Try buying Mamut, Edelweiss, Edelrid or Millet. Some of my more experienced friends (20+ years of climbing) tell me that BEAL suxx. It lacks durability
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jt512
Apr 15, 2002, 6:42 PM
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On the contrary, if she's concerned about her ropes getting cut on edges, then Beal is exactly the rope she should get. Beal is one of the few manufacturers whose ropes pass the edge cutting test.
-Jay
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atg200
Apr 15, 2002, 6:52 PM
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I've destroyed a rope on one route before - it doesn't happen often, but it happens.
jt512 is right on the money. there is no way anyone in the peanut gallery here can assess whether your rope is still safe. it probably is, but maybe not.
if you can have someone experienced you trust(not some random guy at a gear shop either-most of them probably aren't any more qualified to inspect it than you are) look it over, do that. if not, use it to make a leash for fido, weave a rug, tow cars, or whatever and buy a new one.
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tanderson
May 13, 2002, 2:48 AM
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I agree that without seeing it, none of us here can say if its safe or not. If you're looking for durability, check out the Edelweiss Stratos 10.5 One of only several ropes to pass the edge test. A little on the heavy side both weight and price, but definately a tank when it comes to ropes! I've owned 3 now. Each has lasted a full season of guiding rock and ice. I then turned them into my personal backup ropes that see occasional use in top roping, etc. Not to be said for other brands. I like their thinner ropes (9.9mm) for my personal climbing, but the thinner ropes aren't quite as durable.
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treyr
May 13, 2002, 11:23 AM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2001
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I would not trust it
Trob
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lmorton
May 14, 2002, 8:04 AM
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Registered: Apr 30, 2002
Posts: 59
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First: don't trust the rope.
Second: climbing companies tend to be very responsive to complaints about possible defects. You should definitely look into getting your money back, no sense in shelling out cash when you can get them to send you a spankin new rope on the house.
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krustyklimber
May 14, 2002, 11:27 AM
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I also wouldn't trust that rope with my life, it sounds like Jay said that you melted your rope.
When you replace your rope the Beal is a great choice but also consider the Mammut Supersafe it passes the "edge test" as well as the Stratos and others, but comes in a 10.2mm size and weighs less than the Stratos and some of the other "edge" ropes. It has a very nice hand, comes with a very durable dry coating, and Teflon in the sheath which helps to lower the running rope drag on meandering pitches.
Jeff
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