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blocx
Apr 17, 2004, 5:19 AM
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Hey all, just received the latest NZOIA Quaterly newsletter (March 2004) which detailed an interesting article (by Mark Jones) analyzing the cause and effect of an accident that occurred recently in NZ. The accident involved the rupture of a 25mm tubular sling used in a top roped set up. This article throws into serious doubt the capabilities of a single sling to hold the forces generated by a falling top-roped climber. Exploding that myth that slings are infallible, and making poignantly clear the reasons for replacing all taped sling anchors with fixed installations or chain. If you would like to receive a copy of this article send a request to climb@blocx.com with your email/contact details. BE SURE to clear some space in your mailbox as the article is 5 scanned pages (jpeg) with a total file size of 2.5MB.
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boz84
Apr 17, 2004, 7:13 AM
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Not having read the article, thus not having a totally valid opinion on the subject, Ill say this:
Sounds like the anchor was badly set up (no duh eh?).
The climber risked a fall on one piece of gear, without redundency you are flirting with danger, because given the right circumstances, anything can break.
A biner gate can slap open, seriously weaking it, or be crossloaded.
Slings can be deteriorated by weather, sun, and its weakness may not be readily apparant.
Back up EVERYTHING, its not tricky, and theres no excuse, especially on TR. The excue that TR generates less force is STUPID. You have the time to set bomber anchors, so DO SO. Do it Right the first time, EVERY TIME.
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micahmcguire
Apr 17, 2004, 10:33 AM
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I had a friend who is responsible for breaking his girlfriends's back. He stole a bunch of gear from his older brother, including a sling that was marked with duct tape. Well, it turns out that the duct tape was no mark, it was actually holding the sling together. This was not a sling meant for climbing, he had converted it into a cheap rifle sling, but my friend didn't realize it. Needless to say, it broke. Idiot. I no longer climb with this pogue. Just thought I'd share that.
However, all in all, I have had no problems with properly cared-for slings. They tend to be very, very strong.
And whats-his-face above me is right, On TR, there is no excuse for not setting up a backup. If you have time to set a TR, you have time to clip a quickie backup into the anchor. May as well, right?
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braaaaaaaadley
Apr 17, 2004, 5:45 PM
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But we still take 20+ ft. whippers on draws and trad draws which are made out of what?... and you don't see them going snap very often. Normally slings will hold, and if they fail its your own fault for not taking the time to build a redundent anchor period.
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corpse
Apr 17, 2004, 6:52 PM
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I use slings all the time in my anchors. I cinch/wrap them around smaller trees, or use them to extend an anchor for a piece of pro. the yates rabbit ears, which were made for doing quick/easy anchors, is the same stuff as slings. Also for comparison, my slings are rated as 22kn, my pro doesn't come close.
In reply to: I don't think the majority of the climbing community ever thought that a single sling was capable for toprope.
Your right - sling or otherwise, most ppl shouldn't be using a single anything for a top rope.
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dontfall
Apr 17, 2004, 8:31 PM
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dontfall moved this thread from Regional Discussions to Injuries & Accidents.
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c_kryll
Apr 17, 2004, 9:03 PM
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The new issue of R&I has a good article on the stress loads applied to TR anchors. They tested a 200lbs climber using a static belay to take some of the variables out and then let him fall with 35.5 feet of rope for each test. The first test was with no slack given ie. a nice tight belay, and the loads were around 750lbs on the anchor. Another test gave enough slack for the climber to fall 5 feet. This test caused the loads to be around 1400lbs or so. Not sure if this affected the accident but it should be a nice reminder for those "lazy belayers" to keep up with the slack as it could cause excess stress on your TR anchor.
Chris
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reprieve
Apr 19, 2004, 1:40 PM
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Yeah, who uses only one anchor point on a top rope?
And when it comes to the strength of slings....out of my whole rack - biners, draws, rope, etc... - the pieces of equipment with highest strength rating are my slings.
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dirtineye
Apr 20, 2004, 12:07 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: This article throws into serious doubt the capabilities of a single sling to hold the forces generated by a falling top-roped climber. I don't think the majority of the climbing community ever thought that a single sling was capable for toprope.
So thwn are you saying that in NZ they like to go with onme anchor? Line bouldertom says, one sling is not usually considered to be enough.
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meataxe
Apr 20, 2004, 12:45 AM
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Would I be redundant to mention the importance of redundancy?
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blocx
Apr 20, 2004, 1:09 AM
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This post was never ment to be a forum topic of debate, but rather an offer to anyone who would like to read the article in question. However since it has drawn so much discussion allow me to elaborate a little.
The article title "Anchor Sling Breaks, Climber Plummets..." is a exact copy of the title of the printed original. However the climber did not plummet far, in agreement with many of your comments, a second anchor had been established that arrested the fall. The comment In reply to: " This article throws into serious doubt the capabilities of a single sling to hold the forces generated by a falling top-roped climber. |
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tedc
Apr 20, 2004, 6:09 PM
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Am I the ONLY person who bothered to read the article? :roll:
Anyway, don't bother. Sufices to say that the climber had a "sling-shot" belay (Gri-Gri) from the bottom on a static line and a "back-up" top belay (rope type not specified) from a second anchor. Both belayers had let at least 4M of slack build up when the climber fell.
4M Fall on static rope. :evil: with slingshot belay. Yea. the sling broke. :roll:
Article should have been titled "Twin Belay Morrons Nearly Kill a Guy"
Oh yea the climber weighed nearly 300lbs.(130Kg) (Comments reserved).
Group Darwin Award (honerable mention due to survival of victim).
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