Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Solo Anchors (what NOT to do)
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


ammon


Apr 20, 2004, 9:24 PM
Post #1 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 220

Solo Anchors (what NOT to do)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ok, I'm not posting this pic so everyone can poke fun at the setup..... which is inevitable. I just think everyone can learn from it.

This is a perfect example of what NOT to do when setting up a solo anchor. Look closely at the carabiners. No lockers, and every one is cross-loaded.

A better way would have been to equalize the bottom two pins and then clove-hitch the top piece under tension. So that the bottom two carabiners are held tight and can not flop around, causing a cross-loaded situation.

BTW- This is an actual pic taken with a very high powered camera of someone soloing a trade route in Zion.

Climb safe!! Cheers, Ammon


http://rocknrun.net/Photos/NoGood.jpg


socalclimber


Apr 20, 2004, 9:28 PM
Post #2 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh God.... Not much else to say....


Robert


Partner holdplease2


Apr 20, 2004, 10:00 PM
Post #3 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 1733

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Wow.

Also note the clove hitch on the top biner...the biner is small and non locking and one can see how the rope could easily unclip itself if weighted...based on the way the clove is wrapping around the biner...

That, of course, is the least of the problems here.

-Kate.


epic_ed


Apr 20, 2004, 10:19 PM
Post #4 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh, dear God. That is truely unbelievable. A better way for this person to have set up anchor would have been to STAY HOME! How and why would someone feel safe with that set up? Hope the dude/dudette didn't fall. And would anyone else in their right mind trust a single drilled angle as their solo anchor? Oh, sure -- the next piece and every piece that is clove hitched is part of the system, but there's really not much keeping this guy from the abyss.


valeberga


Apr 20, 2004, 10:42 PM
Post #5 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 434

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sick! :shock:

I think I might just tie in directly to the bottom pin, then tie webbing loops on the upper pins, attach lockers, toss clove hitches on the lockers. Or if I was worried about kinking the rope on the bottom pin I would sling that one two. I agree on tying the hitches under tension. But I'm a hack when it comes to rope-soloing...


epic_ed


Apr 20, 2004, 10:45 PM
Post #6 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dude, I gotta say, that's not a good hobby to be a "hack" at. :wtf:


valeberga


Apr 20, 2004, 10:47 PM
Post #7 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 434

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Dude, I gotta say, that's not a good hobby to be a "hack" at. :wtf:

Oh whatever dude, at least I'm not crossloading non-locking 'biners!

I know you can recognize a little self-effacement, can't you? :roll: Ok, I didn't immediately realize that they were pins and not bolts. oops!


epic_ed


Apr 20, 2004, 10:51 PM
Post #8 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hack away, my friend.


junnos


Apr 21, 2004, 5:37 AM
Post #9 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 217

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

O my God, that's my anchor! Just so you all know, it's a STATIC rope, and those are not real binners ok. They're off my key chain!

:lol: :lol:


flamer


Apr 21, 2004, 6:28 AM
Post #10 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
O my God, that's my anchor! Just so you all know, it's a STATIC rope, and those are not real binners ok. They're off my key chain!

:lol: :lol:

Well the key chain biners would add a dynamic element to the system, as they bent to the breaking point. Of Course that's right before the catastrophic failure..... :wink:

josh


glockaroo


Apr 21, 2004, 6:58 AM
Post #11 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

glockaroo looks at that anchor and goes... uuuuuuughgghhhhhh.... SHUDDER!! Thanks for the pic Ammon.


pieter


Apr 21, 2004, 7:56 AM
Post #12 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 42

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

you've got to admire the double fishermans knot though.


powen


Apr 21, 2004, 8:38 AM
Post #13 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2003
Posts: 201

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
you've got to admire the double fishermans knot though.

Oh yeah, wouldn't want that tail to mess up a perfect setup;)


aulwes


Apr 21, 2004, 9:19 AM
Post #14 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2001
Posts: 703

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Is that for real? :shock:


tedc


Apr 21, 2004, 9:42 AM
Post #15 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 756

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

That is a high powered camera. Now if you just posted a name you could be in the climbing paparazzi. 8^)

Yea. thank goodnes for the back up overhand. :shock:


ammon


Apr 21, 2004, 1:22 PM
Post #16 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 220

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Is that for real?

I'm AFRAID so.

In reply to:
That is a high powered camera. Now if you just posted a name you could be in the climbing paparazzi.

Haaaa, I don't think I would do that, even if I knew who he was.......


wanlessrm


Apr 21, 2004, 1:29 PM
Post #17 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 28, 2002
Posts: 333

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I guess its safe to say this is one case where the leader must not fall!


bigwalling


Apr 21, 2004, 2:50 PM
Post #18 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 28, 2001
Posts: 728

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Oh, dear God. That is truely unbelievable. A better way for this person to have set up anchor would have been to STAY HOME!

I love how some people bash others mistakes, telling them to stay home and all this other bullshit!

Do you know what Tomaz Humar soloed the Reticent with?


flamer


Apr 21, 2004, 3:06 PM
Post #19 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Do you know what Tomaz Humar soloed the Reticent with?

Hmmm...

A roll of duct tape
Some strong whiskey...
and a box of twinkies???

josh


epic_ed


Apr 21, 2004, 3:14 PM
Post #20 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

One feather duster, a rabbit, and a tub of whipped cream? And is it a mistake to solo with these items?

What, is that a photo of you?


tedc


Apr 21, 2004, 3:39 PM
Post #21 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 756

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I love how some people bash others mistakes, telling them to stay home and all this other s---!

Yea, I hear ya man. We should just be like whoa dude that's sick. You are so totally bold and sh!t. We should reserve the bashing for after they f@ck up and die/almost die.

Anyone who built this anchor because they thought it was safe enough for the intended purpose likely doesn't give a sh!t what anyone on rc.com thinks, says or posts.


bigwalling


Apr 21, 2004, 4:12 PM
Post #22 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 28, 2001
Posts: 728

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tomaz soloed the Reticent with some sort of ascender. It was only good to 1000 pounds or something I rememeber reading in his interview a long time ago. He found out later he should have never been soloing with it. Go ahead bash him and tell him he should have been at home. Or you can just come to the conclusion that he was up there climbing and you/us were on the ground.


flamer


Apr 21, 2004, 4:15 PM
Post #23 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Tomaz soloed the Reticent with some sort of ascender. It was only good to 1000 pounds or something I rememeber reading in his interview a long time ago. He found out later he should have never been soloing with it. Go ahead bash him and tell him he should have been at home. Or you can just come to the conclusion that he was up there climbing and you/us were on the ground.

Yeah, yeah...but what about the TWINKIES???I heard all he had to eat was plain old twinkies!! Not even the strawberry ones!!!

josh


Partner bouldertom


Apr 21, 2004, 4:43 PM
Post #24 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 4, 2003
Posts: 140

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
Tomaz soloed the Reticent with some sort of ascender. It was only good to 1000 pounds or something I rememeber reading in his interview a long time ago. He found out later he should have never been soloing with it. Go ahead bash him and tell him he should have been at home. Or you can just come to the conclusion that he was up there climbing and you/us were on the ground.

Yeah, yeah...but what about the TWINKIES???I heard all he had to eat was plain old twinkies!! Not even the strawberry ones!!!

josh

Are you saying that plummeting to his death didn't weigh too heavily on his mind whenever he was faced with the prospect of only eating twinkies the whole time? hmmmm....


epic_ed


Apr 21, 2004, 4:44 PM
Post #25 of 37 (5376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Solo Anchors (what NOT to do) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Tomaz soloed the Reticent with some sort of ascender. It was only good to 1000 pounds or something I rememeber reading in his interview a long time ago. He found out later he should have never been soloing with it. Go ahead bash him and tell him he should have been at home. Or you can just come to the conclusion that he was up there climbing and you/us were on the ground.

Are you trying to tell us that Tomaz would recommend using that system or has continued to use it for future solos? I'll bet he would agree that despite whether or not he was climbing that day and I wasn't (or maybe I was -- what day was it, anyway?) it was still A BAD F'ING IDEA!

More relevant to the challenge you're posing, if you were to give Tomaz the choice of soloing the Reticent with that system again or staying at home, which do you think he would choose?

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook