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azgirlontherock
Apr 18, 2002, 4:50 PM
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Hi All!
I've been going to the gym now for about 2 months, breaking that down to about 2-3 times a week and I've done a little outdoor top rope and one lead climb. Anyway, my question: I find myself using my arms to much, does anyone have suggestions on how to break this habit? What would be some routines I could do with my feet to break this habit?
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jakewolf
Apr 18, 2002, 6:24 PM
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The best way to develop footwork inside is to climb open feet problems, or play add on with open feet.
Outside the key is slab climbing or climbing barely vertical rock. This will work indoor too, but few gyms have slabs. Also try rlaxing and breath, this sounds dumb, but it will let you relax enough to stand on your feet and save your arms.
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cdb1386
Apr 18, 2002, 6:43 PM
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Say push everytime you set your foot on a hold while gym climbing a couple of times. You'll be amazed at how much you only think about pulling while climbing. Rock & Ice Article??
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rock_diva
Apr 18, 2002, 7:52 PM
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Hey Cheri!
WELCOME to the site!
My advice about the feet - when starting out I had to conciously think about using my feet all throughtout the climb. I would practice routes where all I would allow myself to do was step up, then adjust my hands, never pulling up. Saves the arms, and gets your body used to climbing feet first.
Next time we climb I can show you what I mean, if you like. See ya!
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azgirlontherock
Apr 18, 2002, 8:17 PM
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Keep the advice coming!! And, thank you everyone for your input.
Rock_diva; thanks for the warm welcome, I look very forward to any advice you have to give and climbing with you again!
Cheri
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clam
Apr 19, 2002, 2:43 AM
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Think of your pelvis as your center of gravity. Your legs push power through your pelvis to the rest of your body up through your spine.
Compare the size of your legs with the size of your arms. Amazing difference! You can pull yourself only so far; you can push a lot farther.
Consciously keep your hips in to the wall while climbing. Err in that direction rather than erring in the direction of having your butt hanging out. You'll find the right angle for each particular climb after a while = the defintion of technique.
An exercise to do at home: lay on your back, relax and breathe easily. Bend your kness, feet on the floor. Rock your pelvis forward, back to center a few times. Rock your pelvis back (smaller movement) and then back to center a few times. Just be conscious of your pelvis as your center. You'll note a difference in your climbing. You may slip back to pulling with your arms from time to time. Just revert to the consciousness of your pelvis as your center of power. Enjoy and be patient with yourself. Have fun.
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crackaddict
Apr 19, 2002, 2:58 AM
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When I feel my arms pumping I turn my focus on my form. All the above info is good stuff. But here is a little more.
One thing I do is conentrate on feet.
I play a game of quiet feet. I focus on a hold and place my foot directly on it and as quiet as possible once its on there I don't slide it around.
Another thing I do is look at my arms.
Are they always bent?
Keep them straight as possible especially when you are resting, placing pro, chalking up, and planning moves. Keep your hips into the wall.
This forces wieght onto your feet and straightens your arms.
If your arms are bent you are using muscle.
Relax and concentrate on breathing.
One of the most neglected things for beginers. When you are tensed muscles are going to tire faster. And when you don't breathe you rob your muscles of oxygen.
If you feel your arms pump try this technique. Its called G-tox. Described in Eric Horst book How to Climb 5.12.
Anyway lift your arm straight up in the air above your head for 10 seconds then lower back behind you for 10 seconds. This will get rid of the lactic acid build up in your arms and replace it with new blood.
Hey I climb with rock_diva all the time why don't you come climb with us sometimne.
Rockitup!
Chris.
[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-04-18 20:05 ]
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clam
Apr 19, 2002, 3:04 AM
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Yes, agree with crackaddict. Quiet feet is an excellent exercise, way to make yourself conscious of using them properly with the rest of your body.
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rutherford
Apr 19, 2002, 3:16 AM
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DOWNCLIMBING!!!
Nothing has helped my footwork as much, tho' all of the above are great suggestions. Downclimbing forces you to watch your feet, much more intently than up, where you are more focused on the prize!
My 2 cents
Dave
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ponyryan
Apr 19, 2002, 4:12 AM
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climb a weak indoor pitch with no arms. Just rest your arms up against the wall. I do this every once in a while, to work out my legs. I use a pretty easy/dense route, but it's still a good idea (in my mind)
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crazeeclimber
Apr 19, 2002, 5:39 AM
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Yes, I agree with Ponyryan. Practice on a easy wall with no hands, but instead of resting your hands on the wall keep them behind your head or crossed over your chest (or anyway to keep them from touching the wall). This helps to keep your balance and to focus on your footwork, also helps when learning to accurately shift your weight. Good luck and have fun!
(Also try to raise the level of dificulty of the wall once you feel confident with climbing no hands... It's good practice for fancy footwork!)
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krustyklimber
Apr 19, 2002, 7:49 AM
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Cheri,
Hi, and I also welcome you!
Try taping your ring and little fingers on each hand down to the palm of your hand (but not too tight, it'll start to hurt very soon), and then get on a couple of easier routes, or traversing, first (so easy that there's no way to fall off, you don't want to hurt the fingers that are left doing all the work), without the full strength of your arms you will have to use your feet do this for about ten minutes, early in your workout, and then do like someone said and say push when you put your foot on the next hold. Also try to center your belly button over your foot as you weight it, balance is more important than strength.
Jeff
P.S. LOVE the wave!!!
[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-04-19 00:51 ]
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treyr
Apr 19, 2002, 11:32 AM
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Doing lots of moves without pull ups do juggy routes with mostly feet.
Trob
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pattray
Apr 19, 2002, 12:00 PM
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One of the best ways (I've found) to make yourself use your feet is to get on toprope at the gym or on a slabby wall and hold a tennis ball in each hand, it leaves you no option but your feet and will really push you to think of the best way to move your body so as to get better balance on your feet, as you climb you can rest the balls against the wall to help keep your balance.
Try it on a low grade, when you get to the top, try down climbing.
by the way, welcome to the site.
Pat.
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jeffi
Apr 19, 2002, 9:26 PM
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I am also a relatively new climber and I'm finding this info very helpful. You're all great for sharing what you know--THANKS!! One question does come to mind: How does the technique mentioned here change as the rock becomes inverted? Typically, my arms get pumped real fast trying to do the overhanging lines at the gym. I know keep them straight but is there more? Conditioning?
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climbingaddict
Apr 20, 2002, 6:49 PM
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i dont know what to say, except all of the advice given so far are good, follow them wisely and you'll be successful
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