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jjthejuggler
Apr 18, 2002, 3:46 PM
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This summer from May 1st through June 9th me and my girlfriend are going on a cross country climbing trip to CO, UT, and CA. I was curious if anyone could give me some beta on a nice climb at yosemite. We were thinking of one on half dome? and what gear would be needed. This will be our first "big wall climb" (one with more than 5 pitchs)!!
Thanks alot
john
[ This Message was edited by: polarwid on 2002-12-16 12:18 ]
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sexton
Apr 18, 2002, 4:29 PM
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With the kinds of questions you've asked, it sounds like the only route you're ready for on Half Dome is the Cables Route. Required gear is a pair of tennis shoes.
Could bump it up a notch and do Snake Dike with 6 quick draws.
Obviously not ready for RR, so we won't go there.
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killclimbz
Apr 18, 2002, 5:03 PM
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Snake Dike is good. All you need is draws. Nutcracker on the manure pile buttress is a nice 5 pitch climb. You need a standard rack. Up to a number three cam. Watch out for the final 5.8 pitch. It's got a real ankle breaker on it. Not hard to pull the move, but it's a hard one to protect well.
Sunnyside bench has a cool two pitch climb, Jam Crack. First pitch is 5.7 second is 5.9. Both are well protected and serve as a good introduction to multi pitch stuff.
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kevinwaldock
Apr 18, 2002, 6:18 PM
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Look fo beta on supertopos.com, it's a really good site.
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runningitout
Apr 18, 2002, 6:20 PM
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John,
sexton didnt say it the way that I would, but something tells me that when you say big wall you're thinking longer routes and not aid climbing.
Last summer was my first time and I loved/ liked these, they're worth your time
*royal arches
*east buttress of middle cathedral
*nutcracker
*serenity + sons of yesterday
(serenity is one of favorite climbs, period.)
Have fun, see ya there,
Lis
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yosemite_climber
Apr 18, 2002, 6:24 PM
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I would have to agree that Jamcrack is great. That was one of the first crack climbs that I did in the valley. It is a lot harder than the 5.8 rating. I would put it at 5.9 because it is a greasy and polished little buger. But a ton of fun.
Also on the sunny side of the valley are the five open books. Commitment and Munginella are two good moderate climbs with an awesome view.
You're best bet on beta is to ask around at Camp 4 or at the Mountain Shop in Curry. These are some of the nicest guys that I have ever met. They are more than happy to help out new people in the valley.
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jjthejuggler
Apr 18, 2002, 6:54 PM
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Just a bit of insight.. I climb solid 5.11's and some 12's sport, trad i haven't wonder to much higher than 5.10c yet, as for my partner... she climbs around 5.10c, both of us have climbed together for the past year. I have a rack including:
2 full sets BD stoppers
full set of BD hexs
3 ea. cams .5-2
2 ea. cams 2.5-3.5
1 #5 camlot
15 draws
7 2' slings
16 free bieners
6 locking
I am just trying to see if anyone has any suggestions on a one day climb?
jjthejuggler
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killclimbz
Apr 18, 2002, 7:19 PM
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JT,
I would say that all of the climbs recomended here are great outings. Sounds like you are a pretty solid climber. Unless you have climbed in Yosemite before it's not a bad idea to start easy. The granite is quite smoothe and has a very different feel that most other types of granite I have climbed on. I would say Nutcracker is a great outing. Not very hard, 5 good pitches, easy approach, easy walk off. If you are looking for something a little harder try Serenity crack. Some people may not like it because of the pin scars, but it is a fun 10. Enjoy your trip.
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maculated
Apr 18, 2002, 7:33 PM
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Check out Supertopos.com, Chris has a whole selection of climbs for first timers, etc.
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phylp
Apr 18, 2002, 9:31 PM
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Runningitout's list is excellent. I would add:
do either The Surprise or The Committment (3 pitches) and then continue to the 2nd tier and add Selaginella (3 pitches). You end up high on the Yosemite Falls trail and descend the trail. If you do the Surprise, the 10a variation is a nicer line than the 5.7 ending.
There are a lot of routes on Glacier Point Apron that go up for 7-8 pitches and are quite enjoyable, but this area has had a lot of rockfall in recent years and may be closed.
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phylp
Apr 19, 2002, 5:06 PM
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I thought of another 2 for you:
Central Pillar of Frenzy is great. Most people only do the first 5 pitches. The double crack pitch is phenomenally fun. Take take your biggest pieces for the wide third pitch and use the "walking it up" technique. Watch out for ropes getting eaten by cracks on the rappel.
Braille book is also a very popular route that gets you up high, with a walk off descent. If the 5.8 rating doen't seem very interesting to you, do the 10.d crack variation - it's really nice and helps you avoid the chimney stuff.
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climber1
Apr 19, 2002, 7:29 PM
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also you might try Bishop's Terrace at Church Bowl.
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graniteboy
Apr 20, 2002, 6:47 AM
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The list:
snake dike (5.7)
Crest jewel (10c)
Royal arches (5.6 or 5.9)
arches terrace (5.
Bishops terrace (5.
East buttress middle cathedral (10b/c)
jamcrack route 9) bummer(10c)lazy bum(10d)
freeblast (5.10, C1) or 11b/c
steck salathe (5.9 adult)
DNB (10b adult)
regular North buttress middle cathedral (10b)
Nutcracker (5.9)
abunchofothershityouhaftadobutI'mtoolazytowriteitdown
Granite
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phylp
Apr 20, 2002, 3:57 PM
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Granite-
What would you recommend as the best way "back down" if you did the combo of Royal Arches and Crest Jewel?
Phyl
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krustyklimber
Apr 20, 2002, 6:40 PM
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Graniteboy is the winner, if you ask me! If you do anything on the Manure Pile, dont forget to take a lunch up with you, as it is one of the best picinc ledges (patio is more like it) in the world!!! Th e grades in The Valley can be stiff so warm-up to them with some easy stuff!
Jeff
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yosemite_climber
Apr 20, 2002, 7:16 PM
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To get down off the arches there are three ways down. One you can just rap back down off the route. I have done this during the winter time when the rim was covered with snow and we couldn't go up there. Secondly you could come down Indian Canyon or North Dome gully. Stay away from North Dome gully at night because I have heard that it is a tough descent. The most picturesque and long way would be to go over to the falls trail and come down by Yosemite Falls. It all depends on how much time you take to climb and how much time you have to get back down. If you get an "alpine" start you should be able to go up and hike down in a day. But if you go during the summer you always run the chance of someone being on the route in front of you. So that is why you would want to get an early start. If all else fails talk to the guys at the Mountain Shop.
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tim
Apr 20, 2002, 9:04 PM
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Grades in the Valley are light (IMHO) except on corners and wide cracks, then I feel like they're sandbagged . Ok, maybe they're dead on and I just hate offwidths :-).
Anyways, Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9+) is a great little climb, the first five pitches at least, although the first corner is a bear. Fairview (Regular Route) in Tuolumne is fantastic, get to the base by 7am to avoid the queue and enjoy it. Jamcrack is a joke IMHO, I felt like it was closer to 5.7 than 5.9 when I climbed it, but hand cracks are by far my strongest point so YMMV. If you're solid on 5.10 then Serenity + Sons would be a great choice too. Personally I prefer Tuolumne and the moderate alpine climbs up there...
If you have a chance, get a 5am alpine start and do the Matthes Crest, you'll remember it for the rest of your life, and at 5.6 you and your girlfriend probably won't need much more than harnesses and a 30m 9mm line for the rappel. It's an awesome climb, I've never met anyone who regretted spending a day on it. Take your camelbacks, though, if for no other reason than to have a place to lash the rap line.
Here's a summit shot from that 'un:
http://www.catherineandtim.com/...on-matthes-crest.jpg
[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-04-20 14:09 ]
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apollodorus
Apr 20, 2002, 10:24 PM
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Definitely do the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral (5.9, except for one short 5.10 section past a bolt ladder). Also go for the East Buttress of El Capitan, rated about the same. Both of these are Grade IV, and take a long day to get up. Bring enough water and maybe plan on bivvying at the top if you run out of daylight.
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polarwid
Dec 16, 2002, 8:18 PM
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[small]This topic was moved to the Regional Discussions forum by polarwid[/small]
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hallm
Dec 16, 2002, 9:13 PM
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Most of the climbs mentioned are great, except for the DNB (Do Not Bother). The Higher Catherdral Spire is fun (I have only done the regular route, 5.9, but instant 1,500 ft. exposure after the first pitch). the North-East Butress of High Cathedral is nice. I agree that the Nutcracker is a good warm up, but it is fairly low angle and not as polished as some of the upper canyon climbs. I have not done alot of the routes on Middle Cathedral, but climbs like the Kor-Beck, the Birchiff-Williams, and the Powell-Reed are supposed to be worthy.
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dsafanda
Dec 16, 2002, 9:16 PM
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For it's grade Central Pilar of Frenzy is a much better and more sustained climb than Nutcracker. Fantastic crack climbing for 5 pitches and you're on one of the Valley's premier formations instead of manure pile.
The Valley has so many fantastic climbs at this grade you will have a blast no matter what you choose. If you're up to it the FreeBlast is a fun way to get 1000' up on the BigStone.
Look for a new Supertopo print guide to Yosemite Free Climbs which will be coming out in the spring. Sure to be the best guidebook available.
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-12-16 13:22 ]
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wonderbread
Dec 16, 2002, 9:17 PM
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Here's the tick list for your first Yose visit.
Reid's Direct 5.9
Steck Salathe 5.9
DNB 10b
NE Buttress of HCR 5.9
Stoners Highway 10c
Sacher Cracker 10a
Serenity and Sons 10d
E buttress of El Cap 10b
If you do Snake Dyke you will need a few pieces of gear for the first pitch- a couple nuts or TCU's will suffice.
If you do the RA and Crest Jewel link up the best way down is via N Dome gully. The raps on RA are tough to find from above and atleast for the beginning of may they will probably be pretty wet.
I'd avoid anything on the Manure Pile, Bishops Terrace, Jam Crack and such as they tend to be the gumby cattle routes.
Have Fun.
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